Help With Keystoker KA6 Direct Vent Draft
Posted: Fri. Dec. 09, 2011 5:51 pm
I installed a KA6 direct vent last winter and it seemed to burn really well. This fall is seemed to burn pretty good also and then around Thanksgiving we got a warm spell so I shut it down to clean it. The only thing I did was take the stove pipe off of the direct vent and cleaned that out. Once I put it back together the stove's performance has slowly been diminishing. I started getting some severe clinkers. Clinker big enough that they do not come down the grate and the new coal being fed into the stove gets pushed on top of the clinkers and into a heap in the middle of the grate. When the stove gets to temperature and the feed and air flow shut down (quits firing) the coal still stays a glowing red. Not as hot and red as when the blowers are running, but definitely more red than before. last year and in the fall it would heat the water up to 180 the stove would shut down and the most the water temp would go up would be to 183-185. After I cleaned it and I noticed the coal is staying cherry red after the stove shuts down the water temp is still climbing up into the 190's and a half hour later would be burned out.
I bought a manometer (dwyer 25) to check the draft. Keystoker says to shut the air shutter at the stoker, light the stove and get it hot and then shut it down and measure the draft. Adjust baro to .02. Turn the stove back on and adjust the air shutter to get to .01 to .02.
I have the stove good and hot, shut it down and measured the draft it read a .1. I moved the baro weight the whole way out to the end which only made the baro open about an inch or so. Measure it and it read a .07. I held the baro door completely open by hand and the lowest it would go is a .05-.06. I am out of adjustments to the baro. When the stove kicks on the baro door closes completely and the draft measures .02 like Keystoker says it should. I moved the air shutter to see what differences it would make and it didn't move the draft measurement at all.
So my questions are:
1. How do I get the idle draft down to the .02 like Keystoker says it should measure?
2. Should the baro door shut when the stove is firing?
3. Should moving the air shutter make a difference in the draft measurement while the stove is firing?
4. Do the clinkers come from the time the stove is on idle or do they come from the time the stove is firing?
Sorry this is so long, but I am trying to give as much information as possible.
I bought a manometer (dwyer 25) to check the draft. Keystoker says to shut the air shutter at the stoker, light the stove and get it hot and then shut it down and measure the draft. Adjust baro to .02. Turn the stove back on and adjust the air shutter to get to .01 to .02.
I have the stove good and hot, shut it down and measured the draft it read a .1. I moved the baro weight the whole way out to the end which only made the baro open about an inch or so. Measure it and it read a .07. I held the baro door completely open by hand and the lowest it would go is a .05-.06. I am out of adjustments to the baro. When the stove kicks on the baro door closes completely and the draft measures .02 like Keystoker says it should. I moved the air shutter to see what differences it would make and it didn't move the draft measurement at all.
So my questions are:
1. How do I get the idle draft down to the .02 like Keystoker says it should measure?
2. Should the baro door shut when the stove is firing?
3. Should moving the air shutter make a difference in the draft measurement while the stove is firing?
4. Do the clinkers come from the time the stove is on idle or do they come from the time the stove is firing?
Sorry this is so long, but I am trying to give as much information as possible.