Hot Water Heater

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MINO
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Location: MAHANOY CITY PA

Post by MINO » Tue. Nov. 06, 2007 9:36 pm

My question is "to plumb an electric hot water heater as a holding tank for domestic hot water. My dad got rid of an 80 gallon hot water heater, because one of the elements cooked up (its only 3 years old)and he decided not to replace the element and just get another one, a 50 gallon because of the ppl of pennsylvania to increase electricity 35% in january.I have an efm 520 with a 5 gallon coil and I would like to incorporate a circulator (brass of course) because of the run about 30 feet away from my boiler. I know for a fact that there is plenty of hot water from the coil in it but why let the tank go to waste.the reason I want to do this is because of the jet tub we have and to have 80 gallons of 160degree water at your disposal.hey it is better to have it and not need it than need it and not have it :lol: :lol: :lol: so some diagrams would be appreciated or ideas i'm open for anything. I get confused on where to let cold water in, flow valves???? gate valves???? and because of the filler tube that takes the cold to the bottom and hot out the top??? remove the drain on the bottom from there and circulate from there ??? help out thanks m.

 
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LsFarm
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Post by LsFarm » Wed. Nov. 07, 2007 3:45 am

Are you currently using the EFM's coil for hot water for the house?? This will make a difference on the plumbing.

In my experience, you don't need to spend the extra dollars on a brass circulator. They usually cost 3x or 4x as much as an iron circulator. I've had iron pumps running in open [lots or oxygen in the water] systems for over a decade and never had an issue. My water is not acidic or base, and is softened.

The cost of circulator pumps on ebay is about $50 for a small one, like a Taco 005, 007, B&G NRF22, or Grundfoss 15-x models. I would use what you can, and if it goes bad in four or five years you are still money ahead. They will go bad only if not running. LIke if you left it off for a summer.

You can also put isolation valves on either side and remove the pump let it dry, put it on a shelf to prevent corrosion if you have bad water and will be letting it sit, not running. all that happens is the surface of the iron housing gets a layer of rust on it, and this takes up the clearance to the pump impeller. Just a rotary wire brush will fix this.

Let us know if you are using the EFM's coil already so we can describe a plumbing circuit. Look for Traderfp's thread on plumbing a water tank, it has lots of info and drawings.

Greg L


 
MINO
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Posts: 274
Joined: Thu. Mar. 08, 2007 9:44 pm
Location: MAHANOY CITY PA

Post by MINO » Wed. Nov. 07, 2007 8:49 am

Hey Greg, Yes I am using the hot water coil in the 520.I also forgot to mention that I would also like to plumb it with the option to bypass the tank if for anyreason it busts or circulator goes bad that I still have hot water> thanks for the reply I was looking for a setup designed by you or yanche . thanks m

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