Stove Pipe for Keystoker K-6 Direct Vent (4")

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Posts: 34
Joined: Sun. Aug. 27, 2006 9:29 pm
Location: Elmira NY

Post Sun. Nov. 04, 2007 2:04 pm

I have a Keystoker K-6, last winter was 1st season using it. Has a direct vent and 4" galvanized pipe running from the direct vent up the foundation wall and out through the wall. The installer used 24 gage pipe (I think), didn't install it correctly and also didn't seal the joints (see black mark on wall) so I replaced it all but couldn't find the 24 gage so I used 26 gage. This was a mistake I now know and figure I should replace this pipe with heavier pipe. My problem is the boiler is close to the wall due to space restraints and I don't want the pipe rubbing on the wall like it was when originally installed. Then it had 2 elbows between the direct vent unit and the straight vertical pipe. I used a "T" with a clean-out to limit the number of joints. But I can't find this smallish "T" in the heavier pipe. The heavier ones are "bulged out" and will not fit between the direct vent and the wall. So I'm considering moving the stove away from the wall which involves cutting the water pipes even though it will be in the way.
I want to ensure I have safe piping installed first and foremost.

I guess my question is does anyone have any ideas or references to sites that sell galvanized or stainless pipe and this style "T" I may be able to use? Or is this "T" not appropriate for use here? Is 24 gage the normal pipe to use? I assume I should replace the 26 gage before firing the stove? Not many resources locally except for the double-wall pellet pipe.

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Joined: Sat. Dec. 09, 2006 5:54 pm
Stove/Furnace Make: EFM 350/Iron Fireman
Stove/Furnace Model: Custom bituminous burner
Location: N. Central Illinois

Post Sun. Nov. 04, 2007 5:16 pm

I used Simpson Pellet Vent Pro, 4" size, to vent my Keystoker. Really nice stuff, also really expen$ive. But, it's 1" clearance and high grade stainless liner, so it can handle coal or the exhaust from a corn stove. It's also sealed from the factory, so you don't need any silicone.

I just don't know if you have the room for it in your setup. Your 26ga. will be fine, just replace it yearly. I'd be more worried about the clearance to combustibles than anything else. Here's my setup: Keystoker Installation Finally DONE!

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Joined: Fri. Jan. 26, 2007 2:51 am
Stoker Coal Boiler: Keystoker KA-6
Coal Size/Type: Rice from Schuylkill County
Location: Parts Unknown

Post Sun. Nov. 04, 2007 8:58 pm

I stopped by a stove shop a couple of weeks ago and asked about single wall stainless in 4" to use on a direct vent Keystoker stove and a length of 2 or 4 foot stainless was about $70. I can replace cheap galvanized stuff many times at that price. Sounds like you shut it down in the summer. When you shut it down maybe if you take the pipe apart and clean it and store your pipe in a warm dry place it will last a few seasons. Worth a try.

Eventually it looks like you will have to move your boiler farther from the wall. You should definitely have more clearance for your stove pipe. The other thing is if you ever have to replace your domestic coil or even just replace the gasket you do not have enough room to do it. Keystoker recommends 30" minimum from rear of boiler to wall to facilitate replacement of coil. The coil extend almost to the front of the boiler. It is long and skinny. Domestic hot water coil gasket failure is more common in boilers that are shut down in the summer. It happens less in boilers kept hot all year.

Just a little food for thought. Good luck with it.
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