"Rust in Stove"
Hello
I have two stokers. The one I have in the house is about 4 years old and the one in the shop is 1 year old. I clean them out every year with baking soda and spray them with WD40 but I can't stop the rust from forming and scaling off in sheets. I also stuff up my pipes so that humidity will not come down the chimney. My house and shop are pretty humid in the summer but is there anything else I should be doing to help stop the rust? I am considering a whole house dehumidifier to help keep the humidity down.
I have two stokers. The one I have in the house is about 4 years old and the one in the shop is 1 year old. I clean them out every year with baking soda and spray them with WD40 but I can't stop the rust from forming and scaling off in sheets. I also stuff up my pipes so that humidity will not come down the chimney. My house and shop are pretty humid in the summer but is there anything else I should be doing to help stop the rust? I am considering a whole house dehumidifier to help keep the humidity down.
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- Location: Hustonville, Ky
- Hand Fed Coal Boiler: Legacy SF-270
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: Hitzer 503
- Coal Size/Type: Stoker/Bit, Pea or Nut Anthracite
Quit using WD-40, try LPS-3 it seals the surface of the metal from the air.
If problems persist, you could try a "Golden Rod" They are sold for use in gun safes, or you could try a drop light in the stove, it creates enough warmth to keep it dry.
The WD-40 is ok to wash something out with, but it only leaves a film of silicone behind, thats why you are still getting the rust.
I live in Ky, so we have to use a shovel and bucket to remove the Humidity!
BK
If problems persist, you could try a "Golden Rod" They are sold for use in gun safes, or you could try a drop light in the stove, it creates enough warmth to keep it dry.
The WD-40 is ok to wash something out with, but it only leaves a film of silicone behind, thats why you are still getting the rust.
I live in Ky, so we have to use a shovel and bucket to remove the Humidity!
BK
- coalkirk
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- Stoker Coal Boiler: 1981 EFM DF520 retired
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: Jotul 507 on standby
- Coal Size/Type: Lehigh anthracite/rice coal
The LPS-3 is great. Also, remove your vent pipe and stuff the vent opening on the stoker in the off season. That made a big difference for me.
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There are quite a few corrosion protective coatings on the market including LPS-3. Something else that works great is engine oil fogging spray available in the auto parts store. It is designed to coat cylinder walls during times of prolonged no use in combustion engines. The film once sprayed on takes a long to evaporate and doesn't allow any oxygen in.
Another trick is to clean it all up well with baking soda and then remove any loose scale. Give it a coating of duplicolor silver 1200* ceramic header coating. It stays on like glue, the only disadvantage is you have to take the stove outside to apply it. I have it in the stove in the house and it is still like new after sitting all summer with the chimney still attached. In fact the chimney rusted but not the stove.
The picture below is taken after a season of burning and then sitting, elapsed time 1 year since paint was applied on a stove that was very rusty after sitting for 8 years.
Another trick is to clean it all up well with baking soda and then remove any loose scale. Give it a coating of duplicolor silver 1200* ceramic header coating. It stays on like glue, the only disadvantage is you have to take the stove outside to apply it. I have it in the stove in the house and it is still like new after sitting all summer with the chimney still attached. In fact the chimney rusted but not the stove.
The picture below is taken after a season of burning and then sitting, elapsed time 1 year since paint was applied on a stove that was very rusty after sitting for 8 years.
Attachments
I'll have to get some of this "LPS-3". So it is just a type of oil?
Thanks for the pic Matthaus. Stove looks really good. Before the start of the season mine looks like it was sitting outside for 15 years.
Thanks for the pic Matthaus. Stove looks really good. Before the start of the season mine looks like it was sitting outside for 15 years.
- LsFarm
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LPS 3 is a spray on oil product, I think there is a whole sequence of #'s. I used LPS3 in aircraft applications to seal bare metal surfaces. It leaves a waxy coating behind. Do a google search for it, it is not a 'mass market' item like WD40.
I'd try Matthaus' idea of the Duplicolor 1200* paint. If you can knock off the the rust scale and wire brush the inside, you may bet better results from the high temp paint than from just an oil coating.
Greg L
I'd try Matthaus' idea of the Duplicolor 1200* paint. If you can knock off the the rust scale and wire brush the inside, you may bet better results from the high temp paint than from just an oil coating.
Greg L
- jpen1
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Your right greg there is a sequence of numbers to the Lps line. Lps 3 leaves a waxy like film where as Lps TKX leaves a non drying oily film which is what I use. They both can be had from MSC industials search for them they will sell directly. Also CRC has simlilar products in SP 350 which leaves the oily film and SP 400 which leaves the waxy film. The CRC products work just as well and are a little cheaper plus there spray nozzle sprays a wider pattern instead of a steam. You could also the oil fogger like Matthaus suggested but since you already have rust the lps 3 or the crc SP 400 will probably work the best.
- Cap
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Leave a tray of oil dry or kitty litter inside of the stove. this may absorb some of the moisture but certainly spray the oil too.
I wish my stove dealer would have alerted me to this problem it would have been real easy to coat the inside while it was new and I had the option of brining the stove outside. Now that I have the rust situation I'm not sure if I could get paint to stick.
I wish my stove dealer would have alerted me to this problem it would have been real easy to coat the inside while it was new and I had the option of brining the stove outside. Now that I have the rust situation I'm not sure if I could get paint to stick.
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The stove I currently have in service was totally rusted and flaking. I used a welding chipping hammer to remove the loose scale. Washed it down with baking powder and water mix. Then I wire brushed it and painted it.traderfjp wrote:Now that I have the rust situation I'm not sure if I could get paint to stick.
A year later it is doing fine, paint has been firmly burned in! nfire: