How Do You Distribute Heat From Your Stove?

LsFarm · Post by **LsFarm** » Sun. Dec. 02, 2007 8:55 pm

Buy a 'TEE' the next size larger than the current pipe, and slide it over the flue. Add a reducer to hook it to the dryer duct. the full circle of pipe around the hot flue will collect hotter air off the entire circumference of the flue pipe instead of just one portion of the pipe. This should increase your heat scavenging off the pipe.

Greg L

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CoalHeat · Post by **CoalHeat** » Sun. Dec. 02, 2007 9:12 pm

LsFarm wrote:Buy a 'TEE' the next size larger than the current pipe, and slide it over the flue. Add a reducer to hook it to the dryer duct. the full circle of pipe around the hot flue will collect hotter air off the entire circumference of the flue pipe instead of just one portion of the pipe. This should increase your heat scavenging off the pipe.

Greg L

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Excellent idea, thanks! I have to be careful not to pull to much heat and melt the squirrel cage in the fan. I can always convert it to a blower designed for this purpose. So far it's working well.
As I said, this was a quick job to test the idea I had. I was already thinking of how to collect more heat off of the pipe. Looking back I should have installed radiant heat in the slab when we poured it, instead of that $$$ eating propane furnace. I could have done it, the furnace was around $400. The slab was poured in 1992, the furnace purchased probably then or the next year (without looking for the records).

Matthaus · Post by **Matthaus** » Mon. Dec. 03, 2007 6:42 am

Nice looking science project ya got there John! Your wife must just love it!

Devil505 · Post by **Devil505** » Mon. Dec. 03, 2007 6:55 am

Matthaus wrote:Nice looking science project ya got there John! Your wife must just love it!

Don't listen to him!!

Obviously none of us listen to our wives anyway.........We do all these things for their comfort anyway...right??

CoalHeat · Post by **CoalHeat** » Mon. Dec. 03, 2007 8:00 am

My wife isn't happy about it at all. But I explained it's just a test, a more attractive installation will follow. I measured the temperature at the wall plenum last night and it was 120*, but at the outlet it was only 95*. I suspect most of the heat loss is in the fan box, it's inside the wall and it's cold there. Some loss also occurs in the aluminum duct. I don't have the clearance to wrap the exposed duct, but I think I'll replace the fan with an inline duct booster and I can insulate around the passage through the wall.

I ran the stove almost full bore over the weekend, used a lot of coal, and this morning it was almost out, except for that little warm spot in a corner, so I dumped it and started over (love that first thing in the morning). I've gone through the "acceptable" coal in the bin into the really so-so coal underneath it. It will be nice if I every get around to getting the "good stuff".

MT · Post by MT » Mon. Dec. 03, 2007 8:39 am

Hi. I'm thinking of installing a cold air return from my second floor's coldest room all the way down to the basement where my leisure line stove is. I would like to make the stove part of a closed loop in the return and feed it to the return side of my first floor air handler. I have Hydro-air with a air handler in the basement and one in the attic. I would keep the first floor's air handler on all the time to let it draw the air from the new second floor return through a special jacket I can make on the stove and distribute it through my first floor. Right now my basement is 75*-80* with just some heat on the fist floor. The laundry is dry in about 5 hours.

My questions are will the A coil and the water coil act like a heat sink and will I lose to much heat, or once they reach temp it shouldn't matter, and has any one tried this? I can adjust my blower speed to low at 655 CFM and save about 50$ per month on my electric bill. Is this enough air? What size should I make the return from my second floor to my basement and does on type of duct flow air better than another. Sorry for all the questions, been thinking of this for a while.
Thanks Mike

spc · Post by **spc** » Mon. Dec. 03, 2007 8:49 am

Wood'nCoal wrote:My wife isn't happy about it at all. But I explained it's just a test

How long will the wife let the "testing" go on? Before this

CoalHeat · Post by **CoalHeat** » Mon. Dec. 03, 2007 9:23 am

spc wrote:
Wood'nCoal wrote:My wife isn't happy about it at all. But I explained it's just a test
How long will the wife let the "testing" go on? Before this

Probably not too long!

drujinin · Post by **drujinin** » Mon. Dec. 03, 2007 2:44 pm

Mike,
I don't know as I answer this what "Hydro-Air" is but as far as the A-Coil it is there in the design of the Furnace so I wouldn't worry about it acting as a heat sink because my understanding is that if the Freon is not being pumped then it won't remove heat from the air in the duct.
drujinin

e.alleg · Post by **e.alleg** » Mon. Dec. 03, 2007 4:28 pm

Wood'nCoal wrote:
spc wrote: How long will the wife let the "testing" go on? Before this
Probably not too long!

Some sections of 1x12" boards to box it all in will solve that problem. I personally like the exposed pipes, check out the Centre Georges Pompidou, all exposed mechanicals.

CoalHeat · Post by **CoalHeat** » Mon. Dec. 03, 2007 7:54 pm

[/quote]

Some sections of 1x12" boards to box it all in will solve that problem. I personally like the exposed pipes, check out the Centre Georges Pompidou, all exposed mechanicals.[/quote]

Actually, the ducts in the laundry area are hidden when the bi-fold doors are closed, they have been there for a few years, she doesn't care about them. It's the flexible duct in the dining room by the stove that did it. But it's only temporary.

JiminBucks · Post by **JiminBucks** » Wed. Dec. 05, 2007 2:03 pm

LsFarm wrote:Buy a 'TEE' the next size larger than the current pipe, and slide it over the flue. Add a reducer to hook it to the dryer duct. the full circle of pipe around the hot flue will collect hotter air off the entire circumference of the flue pipe instead of just one portion of the pipe. This should increase your heat scavenging off the pipe.

Greg L

.

I like the "TEE" idea also. I got 6 foot of 6 in Black pipe coming out of my one stove on an upward 30-40 degree angle. I guess 8 in ductwork coud be used around the black pipe, this would also protect it from 'whatever' might rub or lean against this exposed 'hot' pipe.
Now my ? is ; How should I attach, like some kind of spacer to keep the two pipes evenly spaced around the length before the 'Tee' . I'm also thinking that reducing the 8in to 6'in after the 't' should help with the natural flow of air up and across to the cold bedroom about 10 feet away from the 'T'.

Matthaus · Post by **Matthaus** » Wed. Dec. 05, 2007 2:58 pm

JiminBucks wrote:How should I attach, like some kind of spacer to keep the two pipes evenly spaced around the length before the 'Tee'.

My recommendation would be to purchase two 8" end caps, cut them out to fit the 6" pipe and then start making holes until you get just the right air flow.

JiminBucks · Post by **JiminBucks** » Wed. Dec. 05, 2007 3:10 pm

Thanks, that should work. I think I gonna stop at the local Home depot and start picking up parts.

We better watch out here, before we know the Oil co. agents will be trying to infect the web site with viruses, or worst buying up and shutting down our coal mines!

CoalHeat · Post by **CoalHeat** » Wed. Dec. 05, 2007 9:02 pm

JiminBucks wrote:
LsFarm wrote:Buy a 'TEE' the next size larger than the current pipe, and slide it over the flue. Add a reducer to hook it to the dryer duct. the full circle of pipe around the hot flue will collect hotter air off the entire circumference of the flue pipe instead of just one portion of the pipe. This should increase your heat scavenging off the pipe.

Greg L

.
I like the "TEE" idea also. I got 6 foot of 6 in Black pipe coming out of my one stove on an upward 30-40 degree angle. I guess 8 in ductwork coud be used around the black pipe, this would also protect it from 'whatever' might rub or lean against this exposed 'hot' pipe.
Now my ? is ; How should I attach, like some kind of spacer to keep the two pipes evenly spaced around the length before the 'Tee' . I'm also thinking that reducing the 8in to 6'in after the 't' should help with the natural flow of air up and across to the cold bedroom about 10 feet away from the 'T'.

I had planned to use a series of equally spaced machine screws and nuts. I would drill the larger tee, install the screw and tighten the nut against the inside of the tee. If I use 1/2" long screws this would space the tee evenly over the 6" tee with 1/2 clearance all around. If necessary I could fabricate a metal ring to restrict the air flow on one or either end.