Manometer Install

This forum is for common products and questions such as chimney installations, CO detectors, coal bin designs and a variety of other general topics that do not fit into the other forums.
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Matthaus
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Stoker Coal Boiler: Leisure Line WL110 Dual Fuel, natural gas
Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: Leisure Line Lil' Heater (rental house)
Coal Size/Type: Rice and Buckwheat Anthracite
Location: Wilkes Barre, PA

Post Sun. Nov. 18, 2007 11:05 am

Based on your goal of minimizing draft to slow the fire down it's perfect! :D

Tell the wife that she will get used to it, my manometer is kinda in the corner but is right there in the kitchen. The wife just looked at it and shook her head.... she said "I had no idea this coal burning thing was gonna look so much like an experiment!". She thinks I can't do anything the simple way! :lol: Now she doesn't even notice all that equipment in the corner of the kitchen. :P
Matthaus
Leisure Line Stove Company
http://www.leisurelinestoves.com/


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CoalHeat
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Stoker Coal Boiler: 1959 EFM 350
Hand Fed Coal Stove: Harman Magnafire Mark I
Baseburners & Antiques: Sears Signal Oak 15 & Andes Kitchen Range
Coal Size/Type: Rice and Chestnut
Other Heating: Fisher Fireplace Insert
Location: Stillwater, New Jersey

Post Sun. Nov. 18, 2007 1:56 pm

She will never get used to it. It's removed and safely tucked away in it's box. Esp. with Thanksgiving this week, I could never leave it on the wall! bop2
Heating a circa 1832 farmhouse with a Harman Magnafire Mark I & a 1959 EFM 350 (heating DHW).
100% Oil Free!
"It's what we learn after we think we know it all that counts."

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spc
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Stove/Furnace Make: Leisure Line
Stove/Furnace Model: Pioneer
Location: Rhode Island

Post Fri. Nov. 23, 2007 9:01 am

I'm ready to install manometer. I have 18" vertical from top vent & elbows with "T" baro right after. Can I put it anywhere in the vertical pipe or should I put it in the "T" before the baro? Does it matter? Thanks.
Stephen
"Lord, free me of myself so I can please You." - Michaelangelo
“Christianity has not been tried and found false — it’s been tried and found too difficult.”-C.S. Lewis

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CoalHeat
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Stoker Coal Boiler: 1959 EFM 350
Hand Fed Coal Stove: Harman Magnafire Mark I
Baseburners & Antiques: Sears Signal Oak 15 & Andes Kitchen Range
Coal Size/Type: Rice and Chestnut
Other Heating: Fisher Fireplace Insert
Location: Stillwater, New Jersey

Post Fri. Nov. 23, 2007 9:23 am

spc wrote:I'm ready to install manometer. I have 18" vertical from top vent & elbows with "T" baro right after. Can I put it anywhere in the vertical pipe or should I put it in the "T" before the baro? Does it matter? Thanks.
I would say in the vertical pipe just below the first elbow.
Heating a circa 1832 farmhouse with a Harman Magnafire Mark I & a 1959 EFM 350 (heating DHW).
100% Oil Free!
"It's what we learn after we think we know it all that counts."

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e.alleg
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Stove/Furnace Make: EFM
Stove/Furnace Model: 520
Location: western ny

Post Wed. Dec. 12, 2007 8:39 pm

I would measure the draft 12" from the stove and before the damper. Drill a 1/4" hole in the stovepipe and insert a foot long piece of steel brake line in the hole so that 11" sticks out. Level the manometer and open both top ports 1/4-1/2 turn so they are completely open. Zero it out and connect the right side tube to the brake line that is inserted into the pipe. Adjust your baro to achieve .05 and lock the set screws on the baro so they can't move. Now pull out the brake line and screw in a 1/4" bolt to seal the hole in the pipe. Put away the manometer as it is no longer needed until someone messes with the chimney.
Burning coal is definitely worth the extra work involved.
"Good enough" is not good enough.

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gambler
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Stove/Furnace Make: Leisure Line
Stove/Furnace Model: Pioneer
Location: western Pa

Post Wed. Dec. 12, 2007 9:30 pm

I would measure the draft 12" from the stove and before the damper.
Why 12" from the stove? And how much of a difference is there if you measure just above the stove collar? (which is where mine is) I am measuring -.04 just above the stove collar and I want to be sure that I am not doing something wrong that will cause bad things to happen to me or my family.
Take Care and God Bless
Rick

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e.alleg
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Stove/Furnace Make: EFM
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Post Wed. Dec. 12, 2007 10:36 pm

I learned that from my stoker's installation manual. I have some old books and they all say the same thing, measure close to the stove and before the baro. 12" is probably to get a more accurate reading as the exhaust has stabilized, it might be more turbulent near the collar but I really don't know why. You can't go wrong setting the draft too high except a reduction in efficiency. If there isn't enough draft then you can have big problems with carbon monoxide and a fire going out. The difference between .04 and .06 will be too small to notice in reality so don't sweat it. As long as there is some draft you are safe as the gasses are being sucked out, you are trying to keep your heat from getting sucked out too.
Burning coal is definitely worth the extra work involved.
"Good enough" is not good enough.

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coaledsweat
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Post Thu. Dec. 13, 2007 8:27 am

With a hand fired unit, you would want about .03 minimum. Stokers can go lower than that with little trouble. This is not to say it won't work at .02 or less, just that less than .03 you should be cautius to what is going on. My HF boiler does well at .02 draft. .06 is genrally the maximum you want to see with most HF, again stokers can run much lower. Always refer to the manufacturer and follow there reccomended limits.
Nothing is impossible for people who don't have to do it themselves.


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traderfjp
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Stove/Furnace Make: Alaska
Stove/Furnace Model: Channing 3
Location: New York

Post Sun. Dec. 16, 2007 12:21 am

Hi,

I read this thread and still have a few questions. I have an Alaska Channing stove with a DV (venturi hole plugged) and a Barometric damper. In the pic you can see that the Baro is mounted at the back of my stove right before the combustion blower. Can I mount the probe a few inches behind where the flapper sits? Any ideas? Also, to fill the Manometer should I just squirt the fluid into the little hole at the top of the Mano?

Thanks
Attachments
pipe.jpg
Baro in picture
Disclaimer: I'm not an expert in any coal or plumbing related field. I only post my own experiences, research and common sense. If you choose to use any of the information in this post or any other post you do so at your own risk.

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WNY
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Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: Keystoker 90K, Leisure Line Hyfire I
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Stove/Furnace Make: Keystoker, LL & CoalTrol
Stove/Furnace Model: 90K, Hyfire I, VF3000 Soon
Location: Cuba, NY
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Post Sat. Dec. 22, 2007 5:06 pm

Keystoker 90K with a Direct Vent mounted on the back, there really is no place to hook a manometer up. :(

You can check the draft with the little hole in the ash door (hex screw removal), but nothing to monitor all the time.

I just measured from the back past the air exchager, so I hit the Fire Box about even with the burn grate and Drilled a hole in the side of the stove close to the size I needed. Tapped it, and threaded my compression fitting into it. About 2' of (3/16")copper tubing to the rubber tubing and onto the Manometer.!! Adjusted for Zero and then hooked the tubing up.

.05 Exactly. :) Now, I can adjust the input gate on the power vent if needed to change the draft. Also have a temp. Gauge probe up near the top in the pipe for the exhaust temp. (idle at 133 Deg.)
Attachments
keystoker_Draft.jpg
- Dave
Hyfire I & Keystoker 90K heating an 1890 Victorian
- Amsoil Authorized T1 Certified Dealer

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europachris
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Stove/Furnace Make: EFM 350/Iron Fireman
Stove/Furnace Model: Custom bituminous burner
Location: N. Central Illinois

Post Sat. Dec. 22, 2007 6:35 pm

WNY wrote:.05 Exactly. :) Now, I can adjust the input gate on the power vent if needed to change the draft. Also have a temp. Gauge probe up near the top in the pipe for the exhaust temp. (idle at 133 Deg.)
Looks good, Dave. I have a hole just above the ash door on mine that's always open (no threads), but it's not in a good spot to leave a probe all the time. There's really not anywhere else on the stove that I can go through to get to the firebox without having to drill through at least two, if not four, layers of steel! :shock: I think I'll need to christen her the USS Illinois.......

Anyway, in my conversations with Don at Keystoker, he was pretty emphatic about running 0.02 draft on a direct vent stove and not much more. I try to keep it around 0.02 to 0.03.

I'm going to have to snake my Fluke thermocouple probe up my stoves, umm, exit and see what temps I'm actually running on the flue.
Economic Stimulus = Supporting your local Miners
I love the smell of Illinois bituminous in the morning.
Have you hooked a clinker today?

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WNY
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Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: Keystoker 90K, Leisure Line Hyfire I
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Stove/Furnace Model: 90K, Hyfire I, VF3000 Soon
Location: Cuba, NY
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Post Sun. Dec. 23, 2007 7:43 am

I went and re-adjusted the DV gate so it now reads .03", will check once it gets running hotter, shouldn't change much.

It's like 45 degrees this morning! It dropped the exhaust temp almost 5-6 degrees instantly. I think it's around 125 now.

Thanks!
- Dave
Hyfire I & Keystoker 90K heating an 1890 Victorian
- Amsoil Authorized T1 Certified Dealer

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europachris
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Post Sun. Dec. 23, 2007 7:52 am

It was 45 here yesterday, now it's 15 and the wind is howling with 50mph gusts! It appears the major snow accumulation associated with this low pressure storm is going to track west. The Quad Cities over by the Iowa/IL border are getting whacked with almost a foot.
Economic Stimulus = Supporting your local Miners
I love the smell of Illinois bituminous in the morning.
Have you hooked a clinker today?

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Jlew1129
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Stove/Furnace Make: Liesure Line
Stove/Furnace Model: Pioneer Back Vent

Post Tue. Jan. 08, 2008 9:22 pm

Where would the best place to take a reading on a back vent model LL Pioneer?... especially with the short distance of pipe between the stove and the wall.

ken
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Stove/Furnace Make: Keystoker - Rice Coal
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Location: thompson , ohio

Post Tue. Jan. 08, 2008 9:32 pm

after that question I have one. how much is a new unit. i'v been bidding on e-bay , but I don't want to go over $25 , if a new costs $30. thank you , ken
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