Coalpail.com Forum

Here is my install.

I used common 3/16" brake line. Note the small 90* pipe thread to inverted flare fitting that allows be used. They come in straight too. Any good parts house.

I welded a 1/8" coupler onto the flue, but Dwyer included nuts with 1/8" pipe thread to attach the supplied barbed fitting to a flue pipe [with a washer]. Those nuts would work on the pipe thread end of the fittings that I used too.

I put a piece of hose on the high side nipple too, to prevent dirt from getting in.

Dave

Here's my install. Thanks for all the great install info

Just did an install on my Ka-6 of a manometer using a magnhelic guage instead. THe guage seems to work just as good as the manometer, but I am not getting the reading of a dwyer 25. Still have minor issuse to address but since this is saturday afternoon and the parts stores are closed will get to them next week. just need a fireproof washer to install on stove pipe connection then use furnace cement on fitting to tie everything together. So far have under 20 dollars invested and I'm very happy with how it seems to perform....

I liked MURDOC1 post on this subject Draft Test Port Install in Stove Pipe... and went that direction with some small dia brass tubing I had on hand sleeving it down for using silicone tubing easily found at the hobby shop.

The two manometers I received from a discount vendor were delivered with oil but no tubing to connect from the adapter to the manometer..........Dick

I got my dwyer and got it installed. its been about 35*f during the day here and im getting .02 In of wc with boiler at low fire with 230*f stack temp. and about .03 to .04 in of wc at high fire with 500*f + stack temp. burnham recommends .05 in of wc. Im assuming that when the temp drops some more that my draft will go up but also im assuming that running .03-.04 inches will be ok. I mean my chimney drafts what it drafts, there is not much that can be done to change that. There is a little bit of ash in the pipe between the baro and the boiler but not much. and on the opposite side of the baro the pipe is clean. I cleaned the sealing surface of my chimney clean out door and sealed it with silicone to stop any potential leaks. My home is pretty tight so I cracked a basement window slightly to help improve the draft as well. What else can I do? at some point today I will climb up on the roof and look down the chimney to see if all is clear, which I expect it will be.

I see that most use the dwyer oil fill manometer, why not the digital ones.

http://www.dwyer-inst.com/Product/Pressure/Manome ... s/Digital/

Wiz wrote:I see that most use the dwyer oil fill manometer, why not the digital ones.

http://www.dwyer-inst.com/Product/Pressure/Manome ... s/Digital/

The oil filled manos only cost about $34. And calibration is as simple as leveling them and having them filled with the proper amount of the proper oil. How do you calibrate one of those $200+ digital manometers, and how long does it stay calibrated?

lsayre wrote:

Wiz wrote:I see that most use the dwyer oil fill manometer, why not the digital ones.

http://www.dwyer-inst.com/Product/Pressure/Manome ... s/Digital/

The oil filled manos only cost about $34. And calibration is as simple as leveling them and having them filled with the proper amount of the proper oil. How do you calibrate one of those $200+ digital manometers, and how long does it stay calibrated?

I found them for $36.89 on eb@y

Try Cole Parmer. Less expensive, and way less shipping cost to boot.

"dave brode" Here is my install.

I used common 3/16" brake line. Note the small 90* pipe thread to inverted flare fitting that allows be used. They come in straight too. Any good parts house.

What a nice setup! What kind of wax do you use on your equipment

Order a dwyer 25 mano, should be here by weds. I'll see how far off my draft is

Hey Wiz, check out,"Got a manometer-now what" thread......

Poconoeagle wrote:Hey Wiz, check out,"Got a manometer-now what" thread......

Yup read that one, good info... Heading out to workshop, my manometer is here.

Keystoker Ka-6.... Recommends draft setting at idle -.01 and draft settings at demand -.02 Checking of draft is to be check at pre drilled hole in door.

Minus? On my setup that indicates NO draft ... actually a backflow at that stage .... hence the red because that's not good ....