Manometer Install

This forum is for common products and questions such as chimney installations, CO detectors, coal bin designs and a variety of other general topics that do not fit into the other forums.
pajay
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Post Wed. Jan. 06, 2010 7:39 pm

Thanks Jacknanticoke. I have a question regarding the tube going into the pipe. Do you put the tube into the middle of the pipe or doesn't it matter? Also, should the tube be facing the fire, or just be put straight in?

Thanks again
PaJay
Schuylkill County, PA


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Hollyfeld
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Post Wed. Jan. 06, 2010 7:59 pm

I just installed and correctly set my draft according to the instructions on Keystoker's site. I was only a hair off on the setting of the weight on the baro damper.

i took a piece of the copper tubing used for icemakers that titleist1 mentioned in another thread and stuck the rubber hose into the end. It was a snug fit so it seemed well enough to me. I stuck it into the hole on the door and then made the adjustments.
"I'd rather wake up in the middle of nowhere than in any city on Earth." - Steve McQueen

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jacknanticoke
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Post Wed. Jan. 06, 2010 10:03 pm

pajay wrote:Thanks Jacknanticoke. I have a question regarding the tube going into the pipe. Do you put the tube into the middle of the pipe or doesn't it matter? Also, should the tube be facing the fire, or just be put straight in?

Thanks again
I am assuming you are asking if the brake line should be pushed into the flue pipe so the end of it is inside the pipe and thus, in the middle of the flue pipe. The answer is no. Actually, all you really need to do to check your draft is to hold the end of the brake line against a hole in the flue pipe, but how we are doing it is a permanent mount.

So just get the brake line fitting, screw it onto the end of the nut that comes on the brake line. This fitting will stop the brake line from going inside the pipe and any movement at all. Then screw the fitting into a pre-drilled hole. thats all you need to do.

I know the brake lines come with the nut on it, which I think you may think is what I am talking about when I mention the fitting. That nut on the line allows the line to move back and forth. This is bad, so get the fitting to screw the nut on the brake line onto, which will keep the brake line solid and not allow movement. The chop off some of the line and your ready to go.

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coaledsweat
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Post Sat. Jan. 09, 2010 8:01 pm

pajay wrote: Also, should the tube be facing the fire, or just be put straight in?
It doesn't matter as long as it enters the stovepipe. I have a 1/4" hole in an elbow that I put a long probe thermometer in. When I want to check the draft I pull the thermometer and stick the manometer tube in and take the reading. It is not required to be a sealed connection, just that it gets a reading from inside the stovepipe.
Nothing is impossible for people who don't have to do it themselves.

Fran654
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Post Thu. Jan. 21, 2010 9:04 pm

hello everyone ,ok I finally installed my dywer manometer #25,ok plugged into low side was resding .09 -1.0 ok adjust weight on baro damp to read.06, now weight is almost to left side???? also now baro is always open a good bit is this norm ??? now that I have the baro adjusted how much less coal will I use??? do you think its going to be a significant amount . thanks Tommy

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Poconoeagle
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Post Thu. Jan. 21, 2010 11:26 pm

I think it will be a significant amount yes. certainly enought to cover the cost of the dwyer. Did you figure on average how much you were burning prior to the adjustment?

yes being open is drawing air from house instead of thru coal fire. don't worry its not sucking all the heat out . :)
"Do it Right the First Time" dont leave it for the next guy, as YOU may be the Next guy!!

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Chuck_Steak
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Post Fri. Jan. 22, 2010 8:38 pm

Poconoeagle wrote:I think it will be a significant amount yes. certainly enought to cover the cost of the dwyer.
depends on what he paid for the Dwyer.. :notsure:
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Not like the sun that gives us light in the daytime,
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Poconoeagle
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Post Fri. Jan. 22, 2010 11:11 pm

yes thats true clark, err mr Kent..... :)
"Do it Right the First Time" dont leave it for the next guy, as YOU may be the Next guy!!


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brckwlt
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Post Fri. Jan. 22, 2010 11:23 pm

Fran654 wrote:hello everyone ,ok I finally installed my dywer manometer #25,ok plugged into low side was resding .09 -1.0 ok adjust weight on baro damp to read.06, now weight is almost to left side???? also now baro is always open a good bit is this norm ??? now that I have the baro adjusted how much less coal will I use??? do you think its going to be a significant amount . thanks Tommy
i would think cutting your draft by forty percent should save a decent amount of coal.
burning pea coal from harmony mine, picked up in my 2002 Pontiac "Coalfire"

mof1964
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Post Sat. Jan. 30, 2010 12:56 pm

Finally installed my manometer today. Ran steel brake line most of the way then automotive vaccum hose over the tube and connected to the low side port on the manometer.

My reading with the 520 boiler at idle was .07 Is this way high? I waited for the unit to run and then watch it. It was at .05

My baro appears to be adjusted at .04 - .06 area -- What adjustments should I be making? Should the weight be moved?

Please help.

Thanks,

Mitch

danothemano
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Post Sat. Jan. 30, 2010 3:09 pm

Ok I have been lurking here and there for about a month now. I just got my alaska channing 3 setup in the basement and I have a SWG power venter through one of the windows. I have a baro which right now is set between 2 and 4. The guy I talked to at the stove place said that I should run the venter the lowest it will go and then set the baro so that it just barely flaps. Another person told me to check with a draft meter so that brought me to you guys. I purchased a Dwyer 25 on Evilbay and it came the other day. After much confusion and head scratching I noticed that it doesn't have the liquid that goes in the meter. Is that just colored water or is it something different. If it is does anyone know where I can get it from or if there is something comparable that can be used. Thanks ahead of time for your knowledge.

Dan

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Razzler
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Post Sat. Jan. 30, 2010 3:30 pm

danothemano wrote:Is that just colored water
NO... it's oil, you can buy it at Grainger. ;)
http://www.grainger.com/product/1TC00?BaseItem=2T650

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Chuck_Steak
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Post Sat. Jan. 30, 2010 4:16 pm

Razzler wrote:
danothemano wrote:Is that just colored water
NO... it's oil, you can buy it at Grainger. ;)
http://www.grainger.com/product/1TC00?BaseItem=2T650
You can also get it at most auto supply stores.
Marvel lubricating oil, in the little 4oz. bottle and save yourself some money :)
Thank God for the moon...
It gives us light at night, when we need it.
Not like the sun that gives us light in the daytime,
when we don't need it.

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Poconoeagle
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Post Sat. Jan. 30, 2010 6:30 pm

actually there is many different types of guage oil and the specific gravity of each determine the way they act. I would think I would use the correct oil so as to be accurate seeing as you are going thru the trouble of even connecting the thing.

the dwyer web site is quite specific regarding which oil for which guage calibration. its like 3 bucks.... ;) correction $5.60 http://www.dwyer-inst.com/Products/Product.cfm?Gr ... e=Ordering

http://www.dwyer-inst.com/Products/Product.cfm?Gr ... ons_Access

I think the A-101 is it.......
"Do it Right the First Time" dont leave it for the next guy, as YOU may be the Next guy!!

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Chuck_Steak
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Post Sat. Jan. 30, 2010 9:18 pm

Poconoeagle wrote:actually there is many different types of guage oil and the specific gravity of each determine the way they act. I would think I would use the correct oil so as to be accurate seeing as you are going thru the trouble of even connecting the thing.

the dwyer web site is quite specific regarding which oil for which guage calibration. its like 3 bucks.... ;) correction $5.60 http://www.dwyer-inst.com/Products/Product.cfm?Gr ... e=Ordering

http://www.dwyer-inst.com/Products/Product.cfm?Gr ... ons_Access
Getting the Dwyer oil, would certainly be the way to go if it were readily available to you.
Absolutely.
But if you have to order it, and pay shipping etc., the Marvel oil is virtually the same thing.
The Dwyer oil has a specific gravity of .826 the Marvel Lubricating oil has a specific gravity of .876
This difference in a gauge would be so minimal it would never be noticed.
Thank God for the moon...
It gives us light at night, when we need it.
Not like the sun that gives us light in the daytime,
when we don't need it.


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