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Re: Manometer Install
Posted: Mon. Oct. 26, 2009 10:26 am
by WNY
Put it as close to the stove as possible for the best reading of the draft. Normally about 12-18", but if you don't have that room, as close as possible.
Re: Manometer Install
Posted: Mon. Oct. 26, 2009 11:16 am
by Poconoeagle
eelhc wrote:I am now getting my stove installed and am in the process of cutting stove pipe. Presently the baro is sitting right on the stove top which leaves little space for a Manometer install (unless I put the tube in the T).
Ideally... how far BELOW the Baro should the Manometer go? I don't have much room between the top of the stove and the elbow that is piped into the chimney (simple 90 degree setup) so I would need 2 ~8" sections of stove pipe.
Additionally... I do not have the Manometer yet and I do not intend to have it installed all the time. What tubing/fittings should I use for the stove pipe? How far does the tubing need to stick into the pipe and is there a particular angle/direction the tubing needs to point at inside the pipe?
are you sure you want the baro right on the stove? thats not a wise spot imo. it'l suck the heat out .
Baro Question
Re: Manometer Install
Posted: Mon. Oct. 26, 2009 2:43 pm
by coaledsweat
eelhc wrote:Additionally... I do not have the Manometer yet and I do not intend to have it installed all the time. What tubing/fittings should I use for the stove pipe? How far does the tubing need to stick into the pipe and is there a particular angle/direction the tubing needs to point at inside the pipe?
I just used an old piece of automotive brake line, I think it is 3/16" tubing. The port to test your draft can really be anywhere in the stovepipe before the baro. Just stick it in an inch, doesn't matter where you point it. Use a big sheetmetal screw to plug the inspection hole.
Re: Manometer Install
Posted: Thu. Nov. 05, 2009 8:21 pm
by mgoldone
help please on the manometer, what side of the zero mark do I want to be at? left or right. I have a koker 160 and with it at .02 (to the right of the 0 my damper is not open much. I have a direct vent. Is this where I should be Please help
Re: Manometer Install
Posted: Thu. Nov. 05, 2009 8:43 pm
by Razzler
yes it should be to the right of 0.
Re: Manometer Install
Posted: Thu. Nov. 05, 2009 10:08 pm
by gambler
mgoldone wrote:help please on the manometer, what side of the zero mark do I want to be at? left or right. I have a koker 160 and with it at .02 (to the right of the 0 my damper is not open much. I have a direct vent. Is this where I should be Please help
You can be on either side depending if you have your tube from your flue hooked to the high side or the low side of your manometer. It does not matter because you are just measureing your draft against atmosheric pressure. Most of us use the low side of the manometer so that the we can use the right side of "0" and make use of the larger and easier to read scale.
Re: Manometer Install
Posted: Sat. Nov. 07, 2009 4:05 pm
by mgoldone
I am confused. I have a koker 160 dv. I have installed a dwyer manometer and have a reading of -.02 to -.04 for a reading. Keystoker says I should have a negative reading so that would be anything left of the zero on the guage. Is this correct or am I wrong. Every pic on the sight shows readings on the right of the zero. Please help I am getting very frustrated and I think I am starting to put off more heat from frustration than my stove is from burning coal
Re: Manometer Install
Posted: Sat. Nov. 07, 2009 10:20 pm
by coaledsweat
mgoldone wrote:I am confused. I have a koker 160 dv. I have installed a dwyer manometer and have a reading of -.02 to -.04 for a reading. Keystoker says I should have a negative reading so that would be anything left of the zero on the guage. Is this correct or am I wrong. Every pic on the sight shows readings on the right of the zero.
By using the other port on the manometer you can switch the direction the manometer reads in. If your fire has not gone out, the draft is negative and that is what you want. Most people just leave the - off as it is "understood".
Re: Manometer Install
Posted: Tue. Dec. 08, 2009 4:31 pm
by 26Weeks
Bought brand new from ebay with no instructions. Dwyer mark 2 model 25 What is the oil used for says red gage oil on it. Thanks Brian
Re: Manometer Install
Posted: Tue. Dec. 08, 2009 6:54 pm
by WNY
The Reading can be on EITHER side ( + or -) it just depends on which way you hooked it up. I believe the LOW side will make it read Positive (or to the right).
YES, you have to FILL (well, a little bit) the gauge with the RED OIL. Make sure you turn the ZERO knob all the way out and then back in 1/2 half way, and then fill a little bit at a time and VERY SLOWLY until it start to read on the gauge close to zero. You can then use the Zero knob to fine tune it to Zero.
There should be instructions on the Dwyer Site .
http://www.dwyer-inst.com/PDF_files/mark2_iom.pdf
Re: Manometer Install
Posted: Tue. Dec. 15, 2009 11:40 am
by mgoldone
I have noticed that lately my draft has gone from .02 when putting out heat to reading .06 to .07 at an idle. temps have gone up some outside but still are below 40 during the day. stove temp is around 180 at an idle and the stack temp is around 110. when the stove calls for heat it goes up to 325 on the stove and around 180 in the stack. Does this sound correct. The house keeps around 70 and the coal usage seems to be minimal, less than 40 pounds a day. I just seem to keep chasing the draft around alot. I use a Dwyer manometer model 25 and this set up is on a Keystoker 160 DV. Pleaase help. I would like to get a little more heat out of it at an idle.
Re: Manometer Install
Posted: Tue. Dec. 15, 2009 12:25 pm
by WNY
usually with a Direct Vent, the draft is usually pretty constant. WIND will have an effect on the draft also, it has been windy lately. usually IDLE the draft goes down.
Have you set the baro damper weight/draft gauge on a FULL BURN to the .04 or whatever is recommended for your stove?
have you clean out the Direct Vent blades and housing lately? It can fill with ash and throw your readings off.
Re: Manometer Install
Posted: Wed. Jan. 06, 2010 8:53 am
by pajay
I just got a Dwyer Mark II as well. I have a Power Vent system hooked up to my coal stoker. I have 8" of straight pipe coming out the top of the stoker and then the Barometric Damper is installed.
Since I don't have much room to install the manometer, where would you recommend?
There are two ports on the top of the manometer, which one do I insert into the pipe? (I'm getting brake line to insert into the plastic tubing as I've read it will melt).
Do I insert the brake line straight into the pipe, or do I have to bend it toward the fire? How far do I insert it?
As always, Thanks for your help.
Re: Manometer Install
Posted: Wed. Jan. 06, 2010 9:49 am
by jacknanticoke
Get a brake line fitting that will screw onto the nut at the end of the brake line itself. This will stop the brake line from moving back and forth. Then cut the line so you have about 12 inches or so.
Drill a hole in your flue pipe before the baro, I have mine about 4 inches above my stove. Make sure the hole you drill is big enough so you can screw the brake line fitting into it and its snug. (practice on a spare piece of pipe before doing this so you know the drill bit size you need to use.)
After thats all done, put the rubber hose on the end of the brake line, dial the manometer to 0 and attach the hose in right hand side outlet. This will make the red oil flow to the right and not to the left. It makes it easier to read.
Re: Manometer Install
Posted: Wed. Jan. 06, 2010 10:00 am
by Poconoeagle
some other info and pics here..
Got a Manometer - Now What