Manometer Install

This forum is for common products and questions such as chimney installations, CO detectors, coal bin designs and a variety of other general topics that do not fit into the other forums.
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gitrdonecoal
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Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: Keystoker 90
Stove/Furnace Make: USSC
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Location: Elba, NY

Post Tue. Jan. 27, 2009 7:25 am

i think its zeroed now. went to bed last night, read .02 and this mourning the same. my basement door, there is a crack where the wheather seal and door meet (i don't care coal is sooooooooo cheap! :D .) this mourning I shook, loaded, left ash door open. just went down to close it and its between .04 and .05. think its doin good now.
coal, the future of america


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AJtheNewbie
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Stove/Furnace Make: Leisure Line
Stove/Furnace Model: HyFire II

Post Fri. Feb. 27, 2009 11:30 am

Ok..so I've read through this and think I understand somewhat...

I see some popel have the manometer tube directly into the stove - I assume that is only for direct vents - I am assuming my application (no DV - ventedinto a chimney) would have the the manometer tube in the exhaust pipe between the stove and the baro...should the coppe tube be closer to the stove or the baro...I have a straight angled (vertically) run after the elbow near the bottom of the stove and before the elbow by the baro - I assume that would be a good place....

I know I need to purchase the copper tubing (is this an actual copper tube that is hollow inside (or is it more like wire) and what size?)...I would like to keep the manometer hooked up all the time...so I assume I need a "copper compression fitting" that attaches to the hole in the flue pipe? Is this a plumbing item? What size am I looking for? is it just a single piece I buy? Does it just screw into the pipe or does it fit in and I need to seal it with with something?



I apologize for my lack of knowledge with this-I read most of the posts...but there are no insturctions with my manometer...and I am really unfamiliar with this piece of equipment.

Thanks...
Last edited by AJtheNewbie on Fri. Feb. 27, 2009 11:52 am, edited 1 time in total.

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titleist1
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Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: Harman Mag Stoker (old style) one in basement, one in workshop
Hand Fed Coal Stove: Harman Mark III on standby for long power outages
Coal Size/Type: Rice/Anthracite; Nut/Anthracite
Location: Cecil County, MD

Post Fri. Feb. 27, 2009 11:50 am

The easiest thing to get may be the copper tubing used for plumbing in a water line to the refrigerator. That is what I used for my manometer since I had the tubing and extra fittings already on hand.

You need a fitting for the flue pipe that is threaded on one side to go through the flue pipe and has a compression fitting on the other to connect the copper tubing. Then a compression union that will take the copper tubing on one side and the flexible manometer tubing on the other.

You only need to connect one port on the manometer, although I placed a short section of tubing on the other port and looped it down so dust wouldn't clog that port.

Others have used other high temp tubing for connecting to the flue pipe, you may already have that on hand rather than the copper tubing.
Attachments
DSC09328.JPG
threaded fitting goes through flue pipe, compression fitting on copper tubing,
you can see the edge of the mag thermometer on the front of the flue pipe at the height of the fitting
DSC09330.JPG
compression union between copper and flex tubing
DSC09488.JPG
The coal stove toys...manometer and thermostat switch to control convection fan
I drive a VW TDI, heat my home & workshop with two coal stokers and have two vintage JD diesel tractors....
The EPA just loves me!!

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AJtheNewbie
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Post Fri. Feb. 27, 2009 6:11 pm

thanks for the help...those pics really cleared things up for me....

I looked through this thread but can't find what I am looking for...and maybe I missed it...but I thought somewhere in the past I can across a post that described step by step how to install the mark25 - like adding the fluid, zeroing it, turnin the knob, warning about excess fluid, etc....I just cant seem to find it and I am going to try to install it tomorrow and it would be helpful to have the step by step in front of me....if anyone can help me find it - I owuld really appreciate it...

Thanks.

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grizzly2
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Hand Fed Coal Stove: Hitzer 30 - 95
Coal Size/Type: pea and nut/ anthracite
Other Heating: Jotul #3 wood stove in garage. Oil backup in house. Electric backup in house.
Location: Whippleville, NY

Post Fri. Feb. 27, 2009 6:41 pm

AJ,

I don't know if this is helpful or not, but the Dwyer 25 comes with good detailed instructions for the installation EXCEPT for the conntection to the stove pipe. I used a one foot length of steel auto brake line. you can buy them at any auto parts store with a threaded fitting on each end. I cut one end off and threaded the other end into an undersized hole I drilled in the pipe. I found a nut to fit the threads, and threaded it onto the fitting from the inside of the pipe, although I don't think the nut is absolutely necessary. Take the tubing that comes with the manometer to the parts store with you to select the correct diameter brake line. The manometer tubing should be a snug fit over the brake line. No mechanical connection required. :)
The only redeeming value of winter is that I can have a fire in my stove.

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titleist1
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Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: Harman Mag Stoker (old style) one in basement, one in workshop
Hand Fed Coal Stove: Harman Mark III on standby for long power outages
Coal Size/Type: Rice/Anthracite; Nut/Anthracite
Location: Cecil County, MD

Post Fri. Feb. 27, 2009 9:52 pm

I remember that post also, it was a good description but a quick search didn't reveal it....

With no tubes connected....Turn the zero knob all the way to the left, count the turns to get all the way to the right, turn back to the left 1/2 the total number of turns. Slowly add fluid to the reservoir so you don't spill it, not too much! Level the manometer using the bubble level. turn the knob either direction necessary to zero the reading. Connect the tubing, double check the level after connecting the tubing and you are ready to go.

Disclaimer....this is from memory without digging out the directions so there may be something I missed.
I drive a VW TDI, heat my home & workshop with two coal stokers and have two vintage JD diesel tractors....
The EPA just loves me!!

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ceccil
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Post Fri. Feb. 27, 2009 10:24 pm

Aj, check your pm's. I sent the info to you back on the 15th. I fowarded it again in case you deleted it.

Jeff
Jeff
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AJtheNewbie
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Post Sat. Feb. 28, 2009 3:34 pm

Ok...I think the mano is installed....I actually filled it fine on the first try thanks to all the warnings about overfilling that you sent...I know I need to set the baro from the mano while the stove is at a full burn...so I will wait until tonight when we can use the extra heat in the house....right now it is reading .04 - .05 with the baro set where it was (can just see the no. 6 to the right of the round weight)...but that is at a low burn the min. feed rate...the baro is closed and not moving at all...and it is 26 F outside right now....

I will see what happens tonight with a full burn...and will adjust the baro to keep it at .04 - .05 then...


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ceccil
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Post Sat. Feb. 28, 2009 6:49 pm

Congrats, sounds like you got it about licked. Once your comfortable you'll start looking for ways to improve your setup. As others have said many times before, if your having a problem, chances are someone else here has had the same issue and can help you solve it.

Jeff
Jeff
Loyalty to the country always. Loyalty to the government when it deserves it. - Mark Twain

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AJtheNewbie
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Post Sun. Mar. 01, 2009 3:46 pm

Had the manometer up and running since yesterday...at full burn last night (outside temp of 15 F) after adjusting the baro it seemed to hold at about .05 maybe a sqeek over with the baro about 1/3 to 1/2 open....then on the same baro adjustment it is holding at about .035 to .04 at low burn (min feed) and about 26 F outside with the baro slightly open maybe 1/4....

I think this seems to be alright...yes?

Thanks again...

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jacknanticoke
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Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: Alaska Channing III
Location: Hunlock Creek, PA

Post Wed. Mar. 11, 2009 10:21 pm

When I got my Channing 3 installed, the installer set my baro for me at the 4 setting. it goes 2, 4, 6, 8. He basically said thats the norm and I can see my baro move a little, but its never open half or anything like that. I just see it flutter a little bit.

I think I should get the manometer because I had issues when I turned down my furnace to about a 2.5 burn because its starting to get warm outside during the day. When at 2.5, I got the sulfur smell and the CO detector went off. Fun Times!!

I think I need to ensure that my baro is set correctly with the manometer. Should it be the same .04 reading when it is cold and warm outside? Sorry I am new at all this. First year burning coal. Any help is appreciated!

Also, when testing you guys say to burn at a high rate? Would that be the rate your normally burn during the cold season or is does it mean turn the dial all the way to 5?

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coaledsweat
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Post Wed. Mar. 11, 2009 10:37 pm

jacknanticoke wrote:Should it be the same .04 reading when it is cold and warm outside? Sorry I am new at all this. First year burning coal. Any help is appreciated!
What the baro does is maintain a limit on the maximum amount of gas that goes through the pipe. Where you set it is the most it will flow. It can flow much lower, and if low enough, it may be detrimental. It could be maintaining a fire, CO or smell issues, but low draft is a problem that has nothing to do with the baro. Warm days tend to reduce draft, so does ash in the stovepipe. It's been a long winter, have you cleaned it recently?
Nothing is impossible for people who don't have to do it themselves.

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jacknanticoke
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Post Thu. Mar. 12, 2009 7:18 am

Everyone is saying that you use a manometer to measure your draft and adjust the baro accordingly until your draft is about .04. I thought the baro was used to set your draft?

I have a shop vac and I clean out the ash pan area regularly. I also open the baro and stick the hose in there all the way to almost the chimney to suck up the ash. I try to go the other way down to the stove, but I get caught up in the bend. Can't do it too long, cause of the heat but it seems to keep the pipe clean.(From stove to chimney inlet, its very short. I have a small (few inches) piece of pipe at the outlet of the stove, then a bend and finally 2 to 3 feet of pipe to the wall, including the baro T).

I also get the shop vac and put it on the vents inside the stove that let the gases out of the stove. The flyash gathers around these two outlets, so I keep an eye on them. I haven't actually shut down the stove at all to take things apart and clean it out. From opening the baro and looking, the pipe hardly has anything in it. I do get alot of flyash though. it regularly piles up around the ashpan. I say I vacuum it about once every month and a half to keep it clean.

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coalkirk
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Post Thu. Mar. 12, 2009 8:03 am

A manometer is a draft limiting device. It's not going to give you draft you don't naturally have. But if you have too much draft, it will cut it back so you arn't losing too much heat up the chimney.
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Burning rice coal in a 1981 EFM DF520, nut coal in a hand fired Jotul 507.

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coaledsweat
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Post Thu. Mar. 12, 2009 8:05 am

jacknanticoke wrote:I thought the baro was used to set your draft?
It sets the limit for maximum draft, whatever it's setpoint, the draft should not go above it. The manometer is an instrument used to calibrate the baro to insure the draft setting is accurately set. The numbers stamped on the baro may or may not be accurate due to a myriad of installation issues like chimney height, stovepipe size, placement in TEEs, yada yada yada.
Nothing is impossible for people who don't have to do it themselves.


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