Manometer Install
- michaelanthony
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Hey what took so long! just kidding quiet day on the forum. Nice work. That pea coal looks awesome, I'm burnin; that as well.
- hotblast1357
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lol thanks, it seems to be burning good so far, im interested in watching this on a windy day, my baro is wide open at points now and im going past .05, so when the wind really blows who knows what ill hit, would be nice if they made some thing for the manometer to tell you max and mins for a day
- michaelanthony
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[quote="hotblast1357"]lol thanks, it seems to be burning good so far, im interested in watching this on a windy day, my baro is wide open at points now and im going past .05, so when the wind really blows who knows what ill hit, would be nice if they made some thing for the manometer to tell you max and mins for a day[/quote]
I have the same issues with my basement stove during high winds and like you I have a mpd before the baro. I am able to keep .03 -.05 draft with the mpd @ 11:00 in relationship to a horizontal pipe and the baro set @ .04.
I have the same issues with my basement stove during high winds and like you I have a mpd before the baro. I am able to keep .03 -.05 draft with the mpd @ 11:00 in relationship to a horizontal pipe and the baro set @ .04.
- hotblast1357
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right, I had installed the mpd just cuz, and have not used it until I got the manometer installed just because I was nervous of loosing draft lol im amazed that when I shut it all the way, my draft only drops .01 WC, I would of thought it would of been drastic, I am not a firm believer in holding heat in with the mpd, which I know is a touchy subject on here haha, but I was hoping that I could use it with high winds and it looks like I can, the only thing im concerned with, is if the winds stop during the middle of the night, I will not know to go back down stairs to open
- michaelanthony
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Easy fix, keep the booze down there!
- Lightning
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I've tried the combo mpd with the barometric a couple different ways. I come to the conclusion that just using the barometric keeps the draft steady enough on its own. The barometric is mainly there to keep the furnace producing steady heat. A gust that spikes draft occasionally shouldn't influence the burn rate enough to notice when the barometric is doing its job..
- hotblast1357
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well the issue I have is that when there is no wind I can still suck a cat through the chimney, lol so when the wind blows, and its usually not just spikes, its long blows of wind, so my baro is wide open, and I can now watch my manometer still go up to .07-.09 lol, but not a big deal
- michaelanthony
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I have seen a couple extreme cases and the remedy was a larger baro and another was another baro opposite the one installed. During the high winds I may see slightly less burn time and I mean slightly and I stick with the same shake and load times. Compare that to the heat that could be sucked out of my oil fired furnace that I have not used, makes me wonder how much folks loose in oil because of that? Just thinking out loud no need to change direction!
Lightning brought up a good point about the excess coal used being minimal. Still saving money and staying warm!
Lightning brought up a good point about the excess coal used being minimal. Still saving money and staying warm!
- hotblast1357
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Ya I think I'm going to fine, I'm just happy to have a great draft
- ShawnTRD
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Looks like most pic's Dwyer Mark 2 are measuring draft from the side labeled "LOW" with high side as a vent. Does that sound right? I would think either should work. Wouldn't one side measure +.02 or the other .02? We should be firing up my Keystoker KA6 tomorrow, and I wasn't to sure how to use the MK2. My Keystoker also says "Insert draft gauge through pre-drilled hole in upper portion of fire door." But I see most people using a drilled hole in the chimney pipe. Is one way better then the other? Should I check both?
- coaledsweat
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Overfire and chimney draft can vary considerably and are two different things. The chimney draft is the one you need to watch. Some manufacturers will refer to an overfire draft but most don't.
- ShawnTRD
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Thankscoaledsweat wrote:Overfire and chimney draft can vary considerably and are two different things. The chimney draft is the one you need to watch. Some manufacturers will refer to an overfire draft but most don't.
- ShawnTRD
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OK well my manual calls for a -.02 draft at the fire door. I have it between the barometric damper and the boiler. I can't get below -.03 on high fire and -.02 on idle. I moved the adjuster weight all the way back. Think it's a big deal? What can I do? I think -.02 requirement is the lowest I've seen.
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so I have been learning so much on this forum. so after reading and doing reserch on the forum here I decided to invest in the Dwyer manometer. so I found some places online to buy it from but being the person I am, I wanted to get it today (instead of waiting for shipment). so I called a pile of stove shops and even some hardware stores seeing if they had it in stock. none have it and over half didnt know what I was talking about and I had to explain to them what I wanted. is this not a common thing to get at ur local stove shop or am I just having bad luck with things?
- ShawnTRD
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- Stoker Coal Boiler: Keystoker KA6 (New in April 2014)
- Coal Size/Type: Anthracite Rice
- Other Heating: Weil Mclain WGO-2 (Net 75k BTU)
Most people I know that burn coal don't know about then either. Fatger in-law just set is damper to very light resistance. I think that can lead to burning more coal then needed or chance is carbon monoxide leaking into the house.