Honeywell Zone Valves...

Hello everyone...
My heating system uses 4 HW zone valves...every year, with out fail, 1 or 2 of the valves has a problem...either one won't open, or they are 'sticky', so to speak, and don't fully shut and allow the zone to stay open thus overheating that zone...
Usually, I end up having replaced, or replacing myself, the zone head motor..
I have well water, and thus, prob. a high mineral level...I have been doing some research on these valves/motors, and I have seen some information suggesting that a high mineral level can make the motor 'tired', and thus not powerful enough to open/close the valve...I have also seen info saying that the problem can be alleviated by pulling out the motor and spraying the valve with WD-40...

So I'm just wondering if anybody here has any thoughts

Thanks!

I don't think WD-40 would do much for you. If they are dying in just a year I think I'd be trying some other type, or some other way. As much as I like the Honeywell zone valves, the Taco might be a better choice. They work in a different manner. If they only last a year, I'd consider going with a pump for each zone.

<edit to add thoughts> Well water shouldn't make much difference. You are not adding water to it. Unless you have a lot of leaks you never introduce new water. At once point I added some goopy stuff to stop oxygen migration through my infloor heat tubes. That stuff gummed up my Honeywell zone valves. At some point I flushed that out & no have no troubles. Is it corrosion? Maybe you should add a hot water tank anode rod?

I'm sort of wondering why you attribute the failure to high mineral content in your water supply. Wouldn't that be an issue for domestic water, not heating? Are they all corroded when you take the heads off? I would put a meter on the transformer and see what voltage it is putting out.

Give the transformer a quick check with a meter, maybe it is tired and not putting out enough voltage/amperage. Lower than spec power may eat those solenoids. I have TACO valves and it eats a head every few years. I have well water too and I thought the same thing.

wow glad I install automag valves, never had a problem with them no motors or other stuff to go wrong, I'm on well water also

http://www.automagzonevalve.net/

Let me clarify a couple of things...
I am not saying that each zone valve fails every year, giving a 1 yr life span... this year it might be zone 1, last year it might have been zone 2..etc.

The water that is in the system came from the same well, at one point, that supplies domestic water, so the mineral compostion should be the same, also, there is the auto fill valve for make up water that will add a little water from time to time...

I have a lot of blue/green gunky mineral build up on several joints, and especially the ball valves...the green gunk is even at areas where there is no joint, like the termination point of a copper line leading from a PRV...

The system is in my garage, and so I have a gycol/water mix in it...at 1 point it was a 50/50 mix, but I'm sure it is a lot weaker now...

are the valves you using glycol rated? that could be your problem why there gunking up, just a thought

jeff

RAYJAY Wrote: are the valves you using glycol rated? that could be your problem why there gunking up, just a thought

hmm..I never considered that...do you now if that is typically something that IS rated? How would I find out?

stokerscot wrote:
I'm sort of wondering why you attribute the failure to high mineral content in your water supply. Wouldn't that be an issue for domestic water, not heating? Are they all corroded when you take the heads off? I would put a meter on the transformer and see what voltage it is putting out.

Thanks! Ok..I believe I have a voltage meter around, but I don't have much experience with it, or that area..can u tell me how to use it and what to test? There should be 1 transformer powering ALL of the zone valves, correct?

stoker_RI wrote:

RAYJAY Wrote: are the valves you using glycol rated? that could be your problem why there gunking up, just a thought

hmm..I never considered that...do you now if that is typically something that IS rated? How would I find out?

did a search on zone valves using glycol and there is a problems with them, you could call Honeywell to find out have your model number and year of the valve your asking about , I'm going to contact auto mag and see if there valves are ok to use with antifreeze, the auto mag valves are a simple design no gears , motors or balls to turn or break just a coil and a plunger and when the power is out I can gravity feed the system

RAYJAY wrote:

stoker_RI wrote: hmm..I never considered that...do you now if that is typically something that IS rated? How would I find out?

did a search on zone valves using glycol and there is a problems with them, you could call Honeywell to find out have your model number and year of the valve your asking about , I'm going to contact auto mag and see if there valves are ok to use with antifreeze, the auto mag valves are a simple design no gears , motors or balls to turn or break just a coil and a plunger and when the power is out I can gravity feed the system

Thanks for your help, RAYJAY!...very interesting info...

stoker_RI wrote:I have been doing some research on these valves/motors, and I have seen some information suggesting that a high mineral level can make the motor 'tired', and thus not powerful enough to open/close the valve...I have also seen info saying that the problem can be alleviated by pulling out the motor and spraying the valve with WD-40...

So I'm just wondering if anybody here has any thoughts

Thanks!

Replace them with Taco heat motor zone valves. The "motor" that opens the valve is a plug of special encapsulated wax that expands when heated by electric resistance. The expansion of the wax opens the spring loaded compression valve. It is less problematic than an electric motor and rotary ball valve.

PM me if you need some at a bargain price. I personally used a p/s system after buying eight or nine of them.

Given that you "know" that your antifreeze is more dilute than years ago, I take this to mean that you have supplied a lot of make up water to your system. In a closed loop system, that means you have a leak. Leaks introduce oxygen and minerals. Oxygen corrodes metals and minerals precipitate. Your valves may indeed be the victims of such activity.

Not all leaks are noticeable because often the hot water evaporates before detection. After the heating season, inspect for and repair your system leaks. Fill your system with soft water, adjust the ph and treat it with nitrite-borax.

mikeandgerry wrote:

stoker_RI wrote:I have been doing some research on these valves/motors, and I have seen some information suggesting that a high mineral level can make the motor 'tired', and thus not powerful enough to open/close the valve...I have also seen info saying that the problem can be alleviated by pulling out the motor and spraying the valve with WD-40...

So I'm just wondering if anybody here has any thoughts

Thanks!

Replace them with Taco heat motor zone valves. The "motor" that opens the valve is a plug of special encapsulated wax that expands when heated by electric resistance. The expansion of the wax opens the spring loaded compression valve. It is less problematic than an electric motor and rotary ball valve.

PM me if you need some at a bargain price. I personally used a p/s system after buying eight or nine of them.

Given that you "know" that your antifreeze is more dilute than years ago, I take this to mean that you have supplied a lot of make up water to your system. In a closed loop system, that means you have a leak. Leaks introduce oxygen and minerals. Oxygen corrodes metals and minerals precipitate. Your valves may indeed be the victims of such activity.

Not all leaks are noticeable because often the hot water evaporates before detection. After the heating season, inspect for and repair your system leaks. Fill your system with soft water, adjust the ph and treat it with nitrite-borax.

if I was going to replace them the only ones I would use is the auto-mag valve I listed on a post above super simple to service ( the most I ever seen on them is a piece of kinder shank will stop the valve from closing, even if your having a problem with the zone you will still get heat, the valves have no over ride not needed ther natural open when calling for heat, the design of the auot mag is just a plunger and a spring and a coil, very little moving parts to have a problem with.

when ever you install zone valves its best to install valves on ether side of the valve costly but make servicing so much easier.

i will have to get a valve and take it a part to show you how easy it is to service

If ever I have to get in to a hydronic system for repair I usually try to get a bottle of this in. not so much for the oxygen corrosion thing but more for the lube factor of zone valves...

Poconoeagle wrote:If ever I have to get in to a hydronic system for repair I usually try to get a bottle of this in. not so much for the oxygen corrosion thing but more for the lube factor of zone valves...

IMG_3365.JPG

IMG_3366.JPG

IMG_3346.JPG

last picture nice zone valves se you used the automag's also ......