Coalpail.com Forum

Wanted to see what all you experenced boiler electricians think of this interface between the Argo and Keystoker boiler.

I am running 5 zones including indirect hot water heat, using the garage as a dump.

I will have to get some pictures posted soon things are really coming together - new coal boiler intall in my new house. Hope to be nice and toasty this winter.

Now for a snowmelt system

The drawing is not working...let me try again.

Any suggestions

The circulator wired to C1 and C2 on the boiler will stop when B1 and B2 are closed - only closed when B1 and B2 are open-

Is that not working for you or whats the problem that you are looking to surmount?

I go ZC on the relay to ZC on the triple aq. ZR on the relay to ZR on the triple aq. The isolated switch on the relay is left open with out the jumper. No wires going to the tt on the triple aquastat unless you want to add a 5th zone to that, then the circulator would be on C1 C2. You could run your main circulator hot off line ZR. This is the way taco recomended to me on the phone, that is different than the 2 diagrams they have in the instructions. This way the circulators run from the low limit and above, and stop below. The boiler fires 10 below the high limit and stops at the high limit. If you use the cold start I believe the boiler doesn't fire until the low limit and will work longer to catch up.

Is your zone 4 the priority zone ? Taco uses the last zone as the priority, if so, you have the garage on priority. I would consider NOT useing the priority switch ON unless it doesn't keep up (usually for DHW) if something would fail (pump, thermostat) none of the other zone pumps would run.

I always marvel as to WHY folks wire - using C1 and C2 -- because why would you want a circulator to stop taking energy away from a solid flue appliance - when the load is calling for heat.

Ok some have said its for boiler protection and I preach that so its My Fault - There are better ways to protect a boiler from condensing temperatures.

Sting wrote:I always marvel as to WHY folks wire - using C1 and C2 -- because why would you want a circulator to stop taking energy away from a solid flue appliance - when the load is calling for heat.

Ok some have said its for boiler protection and I preach that so its My Fault - There are better ways to protect a boiler from condensing temperatures.

I didn't realize that the circulators stoped when run off C1 C2 when firing Guess ya learn something new each day I don't use them in my case but If I'd add another zone I would go another way. It would be nice not to shovel snow but then again, that's what having KIDS is for. :whip:

fasthondacr250 wrote:
I am running 5 zones including indirect hot water heat,

What thpe of indirect do you have ? I went with the Vaughn stone lined in a 30 gallon. It's recovery was quicker than the 80 gallon electric I have (sleeping well) and I never run out of hot water with the priority turned off and 4 in the family, unless one of the kids flushes ,hate when that happens

Why would the DV motor be wired to the low water cut off ? What is the WMB ?

http://www.taco-hvac.com/en/products/Electronic%2 ... ew=FAQList# How are you making out

I don't see any major issues here.

on the triple aquastat, b1-b2 closes on call for heat from TT. C1-c2 closes (starts pump) when boiler reaches low setting on auqastat. B1-b2 opens when high setting on aquastat is reached. C1-C2 will open and close on call for heat from TT.

High limit thermostat forces zone on if boiler gets too hot, and the AGRO control forces TT on.

DV motor should be before Low water cutoff if possible.

This wiring setup has worked pretty well last winter but has one flaw:

The zone circulators will run while the main circulator is off / system is not up to temp.

Though of using C1 and C2 to power up L and N on the Argo, but this would not work b/c it creates a no power loop.

I guess I could provide NO relay contacts for the zone circulators with the coil of the relay tied to C1 and C2 but there has to be an easier way?

Any Ideas?

BTW: Here are some pictures of my setup

fasthondacr250 wrote:This wiring setup has worked pretty well last winter but has one flaw:

The zone circulators will run while the main circulator is off / system is not up to temp.

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Is this really a problem? Why not let the circulators run while the system comes up to temp. This will result in slower expansion of the piping and less likely for noise to occur.

Just thought it was a waste of electricity running the zone pumps without system up to temp and circ off, good point about expansion and squeeking pipes.