How to Remove Rust Stains on Concrete Floor From "Bag Juice"

 
User avatar
europachris
Member
Posts: 1017
Joined: Sat. Dec. 09, 2006 5:54 pm
Location: N. Central Illinois

Post by europachris » Fri. Jun. 25, 2010 7:39 am

I've got some rust stains on the garage floor from where 'water' leaked out of my Blaschak bags. At the beginning, it is just some blackish water, but later on, the spot where the water was turns in to a crusty, rusty-yellow blotch. The kicker is that it WON'T COME OFF! I've tried CLR, Rust-Raze, even Barkeeper's Friend (best rust stain remover I've ever used). I even used 150 grit silicon carbide sandpaper on it. That mechanically removed some, but the stains are still there. It really looks bad. HELP! Any ideas?

Chris


 
User avatar
AA130FIREMAN
Member
Posts: 1954
Joined: Sat. Feb. 28, 2009 4:13 pm

Post by AA130FIREMAN » Fri. Jun. 25, 2010 7:51 am

Muratic acid ??? Powerful stuff, use with caution.

 
User avatar
europachris
Member
Posts: 1017
Joined: Sat. Dec. 09, 2006 5:54 pm
Location: N. Central Illinois

Post by europachris » Fri. Jun. 25, 2010 8:36 am

AA130FIREMAN wrote:Muratic acid ??? Powerful stuff, use with caution.
I'm worried that it would eat all the "clean" concrete and not the stains. The CLR was fizzing away on the bare concrete but didn't even touch the rust spots. Maybe those spots are made from Kryptonite? :roll:

 
User avatar
AA130FIREMAN
Member
Posts: 1954
Joined: Sat. Feb. 28, 2009 4:13 pm

Post by AA130FIREMAN » Fri. Jun. 25, 2010 9:04 am

Give ironout a try.

 
Dann757
Member
Posts: 3363
Joined: Sat. Sep. 06, 2008 9:10 am

Post by Dann757 » Fri. Jun. 25, 2010 9:10 am

I read that acids won't work- because the rust is already oxidized. Hope you find a chemical that works.

 
User avatar
europachris
Member
Posts: 1017
Joined: Sat. Dec. 09, 2006 5:54 pm
Location: N. Central Illinois

Post by europachris » Fri. Jun. 25, 2010 9:20 am

Might have to let the iron removal stuff work longer, although I did let it sit on there for 10 minutes or so. I don't recall what brand I bought - I think indeed it's Iron Out. I had some Rust Raze, made by Morton, but I can't find it lately.

Whatever this stuff is on the concrete, it's hard as a rock and tough as heck.

I wonder if it's some of the solution they wash the coal through? I read that they use a mixture of water and something else to make the water "heavy" enough to float the coal but let the rock and shale sink to the bottom.

Chris

 
User avatar
whistlenut
Member
Posts: 3548
Joined: Sat. Mar. 17, 2007 6:29 pm
Location: Central NH, Concord area
Stoker Coal Boiler: AA130's,260's, AHS130&260's,EFM900,GJ & V-Wert
Hand Fed Coal Boiler: Franks,Itasca 415,Jensen, NYer 130,Van Wert
Hot Air Coal Stoker Furnace: Alaska, EFM, Keystoker, Yellow Flame
Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: Alaska, Keystoker-2,Leisure Line
Hand Fed Coal Stove: Alaska, Gibraltar, Keystone,Vc Vigilant 2
Hand Fed Coal Furnace: Ford, Jensen, NYer, Van Wert,
Baseburners & Antiques: Glenwoods
Coal Size/Type: Barley, Buck, Rice ,Nut, Stove
Other Heating: Oil HWBB

Post by whistlenut » Fri. Jun. 25, 2010 9:29 am

This might help a little, and yes, man that stuff is hard to remove from a concrete floor. I did the epoxy trick to the floor, so perosity isn't a big deal now. Still fun. Good luck. :D

MAGNETITE
magnetite - mineral 7.2.2.3
The Mineral and Gemstone Kingdom Help Pictures
Help Chemical Formula Fe2+Fe3+2O4
Help Composition Iron oxide. May contain many impurities partially replacing both the first and the second iron.
Help Variable Formula (Fe,Mn,Mg,Zn,Ni)2+ (Fe,Al,Cr,Mn,V)3+2O4
Help Color Black
Help Streak Black
Help Hardness 5½ - 6½
Help Crystal Forms
and Aggregates (Isometric) Crystals are usually well-shaped octahedrons, and less commonly dodecahedrons. They may also be an interesting combination of the two. Seldom occurs in cubic crystals. Crystals are usually striated, and some octahedral crystals contain layer growths. Also occurs massive, grainy, in veins, as large embedded grains, and as rounded crystals.
Help Transparency Opaque
Help Specific Gravity 4.9 - 5.2
Help Luster Metallic
Help Cleavage None. May exhibit parting.
Help Fracture Subconchoidal to uneven
Help Tenacity Brittle
Help Other ID Marks Strongly attracted to magnetic fields ("ferromagnetic")
Help Varieties Lodestone - Massive, magnetic variety of magnetite (acts as a magnet)
Titano-magnetite - Titanium-rich variety of magnetite
Chrome-magnetite - Chromium-rich variety of magnetite
Help In Group Oxides ; Multiple oxides ; Spinel group
Help All About The magnetic variety Lodestone only comes from a few areas. It is the only mineral that acts as a magnet. Although its magnetism is weak, it is strong enough to attract large nails. Due to its magnetic properties, very fine iron filings (usually originating from the mineral itself) cling to its surfaces.

Magnetite may form a yellow-brown rust coating if washed or kept in a moist area. If a specimen must by washed, it should be dried immediately. To prevent rusting, specimens should be stored in dry areas.

Hematite commonly forms pseudomorphs over Magnetite. These pseudomorphs are known as Martite, and their appearance may be similar to regular Magnetite. However, they are only weakly attracted to magnetic fields, and have a reddish-brown streak.
Help Uses Magnetite is an important ore of iron. Its perfect crystals are also famous among mineral collectors. This mineral is of scientific interest because of its special magnetic properties.
Help Striking Features Strong attraction to magnets, hardness, and streak
Help Popularity 2
Help Prevalence 1
Help Demand 1
Distinguishing
Similar Minerals Franklinite - only weakly attracted to magnetic fields
Spinel - not attracted to magnetic fields, has a white streak
Ilmenite - lighter streak
Chromite - has a brownish streak
Help Commonly
Occurs With Calcite, Phlogopite, Talc, Pyrite, Ilmenite, Hematite, Apatite, Garnet, Chlorite
Help Noteworthy
Localities Magnetite is a common mineral, and exists in numerous localities. Only the finest are mentioned.
Some famous worldwide occurrences are Binnental, Switzerland; Pfitschal, Tyrol, Austria; and the Palabora Mine, Transvaal, South Africa. The largest Magnetite deposits are in northern Sweden. Other enormous deposits are in Norway, Romania, and Russia.
In the U.S., the magnetic variety Lodestone comes from the Iron Springs area (Dixie National Forest), Washington and Iron counties, Utah; and Magnet Cove, Hot Spring Co., Arkansas.
Large masses come from Franklin, Sussex Co., New Jersey, and perfect octahedral crystals from Chester, Windsor Co., Vermont. Interesting dodecahedral crystals were at one time abundant at the Tilly Foster Mine, Brewster, Putnam Co., New York. Large cubic crystals occur in Balmat, St. Lawrence Co., New York, and the French Creek Mine, St. Peters, Chester Co., Pennsylvania has produced some large octahedrons.
Large octahedrons were found in Monroe, Orange Co., New York and in Laurel Hill (Snake Hill), Secaucus, Hudson Co., New Jersey. Massive and poorly crystallized examples of this mineral can still be found in abundance in the dumps of the 19th century iron mines in the Ramapo Mountains (Orange and Rockland Counties), New York.
Help Picture Icon
Links
1. Cluster of oxidized crystals 2. Magnetite crystal 3. Magnetite octahedron 4. "Lodestone" Magnetite 5. Magnetite in Calcite
Help Picture Links 1. Cluster of rusted Magnetite crystals
2. Elongated octahedral crystal
3. Octahedral crystal
4. Magnetic "Lodestone"
5. Mag


 
User avatar
europachris
Member
Posts: 1017
Joined: Sat. Dec. 09, 2006 5:54 pm
Location: N. Central Illinois

Post by europachris » Fri. Jun. 25, 2010 10:25 am

whistlenut wrote:This might help a little, and yes, man that stuff is hard to remove from a concrete floor. I did the epoxy trick to the floor, so perosity isn't a big deal now. Still fun. Good luck. :D

Magnetite may form a yellow-brown rust coating if washed or kept in a moist area.
Yep, that sure sounds like what this stain is - yellow-brown describes it perfectly.

 
mikeandgerry
Member
Posts: 1894
Joined: Sat. Jul. 29, 2006 8:19 pm
Location: North Norwich, NY
Stoker Coal Boiler: Axeman-Anderson Anthratube 130-M

Post by mikeandgerry » Mon. Jun. 28, 2010 11:51 pm

Use a gallon or two of garage floor paint! ;)

 
User avatar
europachris
Member
Posts: 1017
Joined: Sat. Dec. 09, 2006 5:54 pm
Location: N. Central Illinois

Post by europachris » Tue. Jun. 29, 2010 7:17 am

mikeandgerry wrote:Use a gallon or two of garage floor paint! ;)
LOL, you ain't kidding! At this point, that is about the only option left. I've lessened the stains somewhat, but nothing will remove them (and leave any concrete behind). Amazingly tough stains! Baggers - beware of the juice! :cry: :!:

 
User avatar
009to090
Member
Posts: 5104
Joined: Fri. Jan. 30, 2009 10:02 am
Location: Live Oak, FL

Post by 009to090 » Tue. Jun. 29, 2010 7:35 am

mikeandgerry wrote:Use a gallon or two of garage floor paint! ;)
I got a couple large lumps of anthracite sitting on my front proch. The porch was painted with 2-part epoxy. The coal has stained the epoxy too. Everytime it rains, it washes out some "yellow water" underneath the coal pieces.

 
User avatar
SMITTY
Member
Posts: 12520
Joined: Sun. Dec. 11, 2005 12:43 pm
Location: West-Central Mass
Stoker Coal Boiler: EFM 520 Highboy
Coal Size/Type: Rice / Blaschak anthracite
Other Heating: Oil fired Burnham boiler

Post by SMITTY » Tue. Jun. 29, 2010 1:45 pm

Yep - that stuff is impossible to wash off. I ruined my favorite sweatshirt with the stuff. The concrete stains on the porch took about 4 years to fade away from foot traffic .... but then again, the paint is nearly the same color as the juice - so it could still be there for all I know.

 
User avatar
europachris
Member
Posts: 1017
Joined: Sat. Dec. 09, 2006 5:54 pm
Location: N. Central Illinois

Post by europachris » Tue. Jun. 29, 2010 1:52 pm

SMITTY wrote:Yep - that stuff is impossible to wash off. I ruined my favorite sweatshirt with the stuff. The concrete stains on the porch took about 4 years to fade away from foot traffic .... but then again, the paint is nearly the same color as the juice - so it could still be there for all I know.
OMG, I bet THAT is what got all over a load of my clothes! I had a bag "juice" all over me this past winter. I took the clothes off and threw them in the hamper. Later on I had these yellow stains all over a bunch of my clothes that were in with that load. Looked like the dog pi$$ed on the laundry pile. Most of the stains came out with some "Rust Raze" added to the wash next time around, but some are still visible.

Good grief, who'da thunk that a little black water from a bag of coal could make such a mess!?!?!?? :mad: :shock:

 
Ickati
New Member
Posts: 1
Joined: Tue. Nov. 20, 2018 8:51 am
Location: Canada,Ontario

Post by Ickati » Tue. Nov. 20, 2018 9:05 am

Sorry to bring this thread back around...

Use the search button. You will find it all there.
I would use the following in order of safety:
1. Oxalic if you have it.
2. Phosphoric (Will etch the concrete, so be careful and keep it wet. This is the main ingredient in CLR).
3. Muriatic (Hydrochloric) This will etch the concrete very quickly if you allow it sit. I have used the "Safer Muriatic" which has a buffer in it, with the concrete prewet, and rinse quickly. Muriatic is dangerous and will mess you up if you don't respect it. I would try the oxalic and Phosphoric first.

I've been unsuccessful in removing rust stains from concrete using a number of weak acids. I have stamped, multi-colored concrete, and the weak acids do of course etch the concrete, but in my case the rust stains seem to have penetrated deep enough into the concrete that, after using rust removers, it just made the appearance worse.

You may end up needing to grind the rust stains out & then repolish the surface to the sheen you're looking for. If that's the case, then you don't have much to lose by trying any number of weak acids or other cleaners.

 
User avatar
coaledsweat
Site Moderator
Posts: 13763
Joined: Fri. Oct. 27, 2006 2:05 pm
Location: Guilford, Connecticut
Stoker Coal Boiler: Axeman Anderson 260M
Coal Size/Type: Pea

Post by coaledsweat » Tue. Nov. 20, 2018 10:10 am

Please note: Oxalic is toxic to humans. Citric is not.


Post Reply

Return to “Coal Bins, Chimneys, CO Detectors & Thermostats”