Draft Inducer on Flue Pipe

 
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zimcocomp
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Post by zimcocomp » Fri. Apr. 16, 2010 4:24 pm

First time forum user so please excuse my errors.

I have an HS Tarm multifuel boiler. I burn wood, coal and oil at various times according to the season. Using the oil burner the draft to just good enough and coal is somewhat of a problem, but when burning wood we get too much smoke into the room. The Tarm vents through the brick into the back of a enclosed fireplace that we don't use. I was thinking of putting a draft inducer like Tjernlund AD-1 on the end of the pipe as it enters into the back of the fireplace. We don't have enough distance between the Tarm and the brick of the fireplace to put it outside. Do you see any problems here or do you have any sugestions? Also should I keep the barometric damper with the draft inducer?
Thanks
Lynn


 
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Post by DOUG » Fri. Apr. 16, 2010 10:19 pm

It sounds like a good idea and I would keep the barometric draft regulator. I purchased one of those draft inducers but never installed it. After measuring my draft with a manometer or draft gauge available through Grainger http://www.grainger.com/product/6T163?Pid=search http://www.grainger.com/product/2T650?Pid=search I found that when I lined my chimney, I didn't need it.

There are a few other options also to consider. Other than installing a chimney liner, if your flue in your unused fireplace chimney is tall enough, possibly just installing a chimney cap to a smaller size may do the trick. This will allow the combustion gases to stay warmer and increase your draft without the use of an inducer. Just something to consider before you buy an inducer.

So, if you don't want to spend the money for a chimney liner, your chimney is in good shape, and the chimney cap reducer still doesn't provide enough draft, then go ahead and get a chimney draft inducer. I would spend the money on a manometer or draft gauge though. It takes a lot of the guess work out of the operation.

 
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zimcocomp
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Post by zimcocomp » Sat. Apr. 17, 2010 10:57 am

Doug,
Thanks for the response.
I do have a manometer but the indication is so small it's difficult to even read.
I kind a like the idea of a draft inducer for more than just the draft of smoke. When we have to clean the coal ash it is very dusty and eventually covers the entire basement. It's not finished but I do have a lot of tools and equipment down there. If I had a draft inducer turned on and up in speed while the door is open maybe the dust would rise up the chimney. You think?

Lynn

 
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Post by DOUG » Sat. Apr. 17, 2010 11:50 am

Lynn, yes I do believe that installing a draft inducer and turning it up would suck the dust up the chimney. The dust would also probably fall out of suspension and accumulate in the chimney and clean out area too. So, more frequent cleanings maybe needed. Sucking the dust with a shop vac would be easy.

I bought one of these
**Broken Link(s) Removed** It sure eliminated the fast clogging of the shop vac air filter. If you don't have one I'd put it on your wish list. You'll love it. They do make less expensive models out of plastic http://www.dustdeputy.com/ but I wanted a metal one that mounts to a 14" metal barrel because I use it for cleaning ashes.

So go ahead and try a draft inducer. It sounds like this may solve your low drafting chimney problem. I'd still keep the barometric draft regulator to help with any over drafting. Then you can fine tune your system when burning coal.

 
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Post by CapeCoaler » Sat. Apr. 17, 2010 1:02 pm

The draft issue is probably caused by the large area of the chimney flue...
Is this an inside or outside chimney?
I would try the smaller cap first as it would be the cheapest fix...
The insulated liner would be my next choice...
But if you are burning wood and coal it may not last that long...
If at all possible use a rigid liner as it can be brushed out better than a flexible one...
Creosote from burning wood is the problem here...
The draft inducer is a close third because you burn wood...
Again the creosote issue because of buildup on the blades...
Now if you could get access to or build an 8x8 chimney that would be the real fix...

 
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Post by zimcocomp » Sat. Apr. 17, 2010 5:27 pm

Capecoaler,
Thanks for the response.
The flue is one of three flues all but one are 8x8 from two fireplaces. One of them I am connecting the flue pipe to.
They all are centrally located in the the same brick structure. I find the draft to be just ok until you open the door or begin removing ash. Typically one would think the draft would increase bu instead backs up into the room. I favor a draft inducer because I can switch it on before opening the door to load or remove ash and leave it turned off or at least down during normal operation.

Lynn

 
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Post by CapeCoaler » Sun. Apr. 18, 2010 11:26 am

So if I understand you...
The Tarm is hooked to the one large flue you have...
Any chance of hooking into one of the smaller flues...
A manometer to check the actual draft you have now is the starting point...
Dwyer 25 is what most use on the forum...
Check the flue for obstructions and such...
The draft drops when you open the doors because the flue is too big and the heat from the tarm is not sufficient to lift the gasses in the flue...
The inducer should help by forcing the gasses up the flue...


 
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Post by coaledsweat » Sun. Apr. 18, 2010 10:45 pm

zimcocomp wrote:Do you see any problems here or do you have any sugestions?
Also should I keep the barometric damper with the draft inducer?
Check to make sure the baffle between the oil and solid fuel sides of the combustion chamber is not perforated, it will cause problems.
Yes, you must use the baro and installed prior to the draft inducer.

 
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Post by brckwlt » Sun. Apr. 18, 2010 10:50 pm

what is a good draft inducer to buy?

 
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Post by zimcocomp » Mon. Apr. 19, 2010 10:49 am

Thanks for all the responses.
The smallest flue is already being used for our antique kitchen range. Everything should work as good as this one.
I found the draft inducer that I like (Tjernlund Products AD-1) on E-bay at Patriot Supply for $162. HVACQuick.com has it for $159. Anyone find it cheaper somewhere else? This will be one of my summer projects.
Anyone know of bulk coal delivery to Southern Massachusetts at a good price?

Lynn

 
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Post by Rob R. » Mon. Apr. 19, 2010 12:16 pm

If your only problem is smoke spillage with the loading door open, and the HS Tarm is located in it's own boiler room or basement...there is another creative solution. A few months ago I chatted with someone that was burning bituminous coal in an old Capital Red-top boiler, and he was having problems with smoke/soot spilling out of the loading door when open. He put an exhaust fan in one of the old basement windows so that it blew INTO the boiler room. He would turn the fan on prior to loading the boiler, and the fan essentially pressurized the boiler room (slightly) and completely cured the smoke spillage. He said it also really helped get the fire going after adding the coal.

 
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Post by DOUG » Mon. Apr. 19, 2010 5:53 pm

Hi Lynn, I have one for you. Check your Private Messages.

 
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Post by zimcocomp » Tue. Apr. 27, 2010 5:30 pm

Thanks Doug.
It's now installed and working great. I turn it on when I need to open the loading door for any reason. It also helps to establish a new fire quickly.

Lynn

 
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Post by zimcocomp » Sat. Jan. 09, 2016 11:14 am

The draft inducer I got from Doug worked very well and it probably still is. We have since sold the old cape we were in in Massachusetts and have moved to Maine. Here I have installed a Clayton wood/ coal burning hot air furnace and it did well in a very cold winter last year. What I would like to do is enhance the use/efficiency of this furnace. I have been looking at the primary draft control systems available and they sound pretty good. The one kit for this furnace is over $300. Has anyone done this and how? Purchased one or home brew?
Any suggestions would be helpful.

Lynn

 
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Post by Lightning » Sat. Jan. 09, 2016 11:18 am

HI Lynn, what model is your Clayton and do you plan to burn anthracite in it or wood?

Also, what kind of chimney will it be connected to?


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