"Summer" Storage- Cleaning Coal Stove

Jack Magnum
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Stove/Furnace Make: Harman
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Location: Cossayuna lake in N.Y.

Post Sat. May. 09, 2009 10:21 am

I shut down my stove about 2 weeks ago and due to an unexpected illness haven't taken my stove pipe apart and cleaned it and in fact other than cleaning out the stove ash and ash pan haven't done anything.How long do I have before my stove pipe is ruined from not cleaning it?


Jack Magnum
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Posts: 188
Joined: Mon. May. 05, 2008 10:34 am
Stove/Furnace Make: Harman
Stove/Furnace Model: TLC-2000
Location: Cossayuna lake in N.Y.

Post Fri. May. 15, 2009 12:32 pm

Jack Magnum wrote:I shut down my stove about 2 weeks ago and due to an unexpected illness haven't taken my stove pipe apart and cleaned it and in fact other than cleaning out the stove ash and ash pan haven't done anything.How long do I have before my stove pipe is ruined from not cleaning it?
Come on guys. I still have bad case of flu so is the extra wait to clean my pipes gonna rust them out ?

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lowfog01
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Location: Springfield, VA

Post Sat. May. 16, 2009 6:01 am

[/quote]Come on guys. I still have bad case of flu so is the extra wait to clean my pipes gonna rust them out ?[/quote]

I didn't do anything to my stove or pipes for 3 years and found only minimal pitting from the ash or rust from the humidity had developed on the pipes or in the stove when I cleaned it this spring. You may see some red staining in the fire box but that's probably a reaction to the iron in the coal and will react differently to water then rust does. It makes a slimy paste. I did find pitting on the chimney clean out cap where the fly ash had accumulated to a depth of 5 inches over the years. I also found that my baro (after 3 months) was starting to pit and rust so I'd look at that sooner rather then later. I remember that someone else had had to replace their baro when the connection rim had rusted through. All things considered, I personally wouldn't worry about getting this done - there isn't a real rush - but I'd definitely do it before next season. I know some folks don't for whatever reason but I'd rather take the time and know the stove is in great shape then be surprised later when the temperature is below freezing outside. Lisa

Jack Magnum
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Posts: 188
Joined: Mon. May. 05, 2008 10:34 am
Stove/Furnace Make: Harman
Stove/Furnace Model: TLC-2000
Location: Cossayuna lake in N.Y.

Post Tue. May. 19, 2009 7:41 pm

lowfog01 wrote:
Come on guys. I still have bad case of flu so is the extra wait to clean my pipes gonna rust them out ?[/quote]

I didn't do anything to my stove or pipes for 3 years and found only minimal pitting from the ash or rust from the humidity had developed on the pipes or in the stove when I cleaned it this spring. You may see some red staining in the fire box but that's probably a reaction to the iron in the coal and will react differently to water then rust does. It makes a slimy paste. I did find pitting on the chimney clean out cap where the fly ash had accumulated to a depth of 5 inches over the years. I also found that my baro (after 3 months) was starting to pit and rust so I'd look at that sooner rather then later. I remember that someone else had had to replace their baro when the connection rim had rusted through. All things considered, I personally wouldn't worry about getting this done - there isn't a real rush - but I'd definitely do it before next season. I know some folks don't for whatever reason but I'd rather take the time and know the stove is in great shape then be surprised later when the temperature is below freezing outside. Lisa[/quote]Thanks for the reply Lisa.My timing isn't very good and just about the time I was ready to clean everything I was hit with some illnesses. I have a micro filter for my shope vac and stuff to clean everything else. Plan on doing it soon. Thanks again Lisa

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ceccil
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Location: Elmira, NY

Post Tue. May. 19, 2009 8:59 pm

Letting it sit for a little while won't do any harm. I just wouldn't wait till last min. though. I usually don't get to mine until at least mid-June or so. I like to get my outside stuff done in May and early June before it starts boiling outside. Then once it starts getting hot out I will take care of the stove. That way I'm working in a nice cool basement. Once the stove is shut down, I run my dehumidifier to keep the moisture down. No trouble so far.

Jeff

Jack Magnum
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Posts: 188
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Stove/Furnace Make: Harman
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Location: Cossayuna lake in N.Y.

Post Thu. May. 21, 2009 10:22 pm

ceccil wrote:Letting it sit for a little while won't do any harm. I just wouldn't wait till last min. though. I usually don't get to mine until at least mid-June or so. I like to get my outside stuff done in May and early June before it starts boiling outside. Then once it starts getting hot out I will take care of the stove. That way I'm working in a nice cool basement. Once the stove is shut down, I run my dehumidifier to keep the moisture down. No trouble so far.

Jeff
Thanks for the input.
Jack

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FingerLakesStoker
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Location: Bloomfield, NY Southeast of Rochester

Post Mon. Jun. 08, 2009 7:48 am

I was looking at this thread and read about spraying the inside with LPS-3. It got me thinking about when I fire up again in October. Do I have to clean out my boiler again to remove the LPS-3 before I fire up or will it burn off when it gets up to temperature??? :shock:

Mike

Jeddbird
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Post Mon. Jun. 08, 2009 7:54 am

I find the most important summer bit of 'Preventative Maintenance" is simply to disconnect the exhaust pipe from the outside air & plug up the thimble. Keeps rusting to a minimum. (do it asap, but anytime is better than nothing)


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009to090
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Stoker Coal Boiler: EFM 520 HighBoy
Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: DVC-500 x 2
Coal Size/Type: Anthracite Rice
Location: Warrenton, NC

Post Mon. Jun. 08, 2009 9:39 am

FingerLakesStoker wrote: Do I have to clean out my boiler again to remove the LPS-3 before I fire up or will it burn off when it gets up to temperature??? Mike
Mike, it'll burn off. No problem :D

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FingerLakesStoker
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Post Tue. Jun. 09, 2009 5:01 am

Thanks Chris!!! I just want to be safe and it is better to ask than to throw all care to the wind.

Mike

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Rex
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Post Sun. Jul. 19, 2009 7:25 am

After removing all the ash and coal, I spray the inside walls down with Pam cooking spray. Keeps the rust down and "cures" the metal during the summer months. I also purchase some dehumidifier crystals called "damp out" that removes moister from the air. I simply take the lid off the container and sit inside the stove. Right now the bowl is filled with water!! It was dry clear crystals!! Looks like its working. Now to replace it for new.

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009to090
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Post Sun. Jul. 19, 2009 8:17 am

Rex wrote: Right now the bowl is filled with water!! It was dry clear crystals!! Looks like its working. Now to replace it for new.
REX, you can probably spread out your Damp-Rid or Damp-Out on a cookie sheet, and bake it in an oven to renew it. I can do that from year to year. Then I put the Damp-Rid in a LARGE size ziplock bag for the next season.

Hondaracer2oo4
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Location: Hillsboro NH

Post Tue. Jul. 21, 2009 9:51 pm

I just did the Baking soda wash for the first time on my stove and well it seemed to have worked but it looks worse then before. I believe that the baking soda is suppose to neutralize the acids in the fly ash so they don't eat the stove which I am sure it did but it caused the entire inside of the stove to look like one big rust bucket. Now I would think that it was just the unpainted interior of the stove rusting but there is still build up of probably fly ash on the sides of the stove. Should I be concerned or should I just spray that lps3 all over the inside of the stove and call it good? Thanks.

jrn8265
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Post Wed. Jul. 22, 2009 6:07 am

Hondaracer, I experienced the same thing as far as the immediate turn to red and decided that I am not going to use any water/baking soda on my stove in the future, just a good vacuum and wipe down! I may paint the inside also as I did this year. Just does not make sense to me to expose the stove to water in any way!

Hondaracer2oo4
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Post Wed. Jul. 22, 2009 11:22 am

Yea jrn, I understand that the baking soda is suppose to neutralize the acids and such but boy the inside of my stove as never looked this bad before! I would have to take a wire wheel on a drill now to the inside to get everything off so I could paint it if I wanted to go that route. I will probably just cover it with that lps3 oil and call it good I guess.


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