Want to Heat Domestic Hot Water Tank Using Coal Stove

 
dolfin3495
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Post by dolfin3495 » Thu. Feb. 11, 2010 5:39 pm

I am new to this forum and have a few questions I will appreciate any input or ideas. On the first floor of my farmhouse I have a Hitzer 5093 which heats 2 floors. I am considering a domestic hot water coil from thermo koil ( a single loop) to heat my domestic electric hot water take that is in my basement as a supplament with electric being a back up during the non burning months.From thermo koil I have there info and diagrams for the circulating pump method is this a good method?
With the stove on the first floor and the hot water tank in the basement with a distance of 20 ft between them does that pose a problem? Can I also use plastic piping in between the stove and hot water tank with copper on each endor does it have to be all copper? I did hear of plastic piping called pexis is this a possibility to use? I do know that copper is the best choice but I thought I could use plastic pipe since I will be working in a crawl space?
I have attatched a diagram of there set up method, if I plumb it according to there diagram will I be utalizing everything to the best of its ability?

thank you

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thermo koil.jpg

thermo koil diagram

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WNY
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Post by WNY » Thu. Feb. 11, 2010 6:24 pm

THat's pretty close, but if you over 10 feet, you will need a pump and all the safety devices.
Do a search on Hot Water Coil, been discussed and a lot of other ideas on here.

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Post by stokerstove » Thu. Feb. 11, 2010 6:40 pm

Welcome to the forum. This subject comes up quite often so a search will yield many answers.

I will give you my opinion on using a coil in your stove. I currently use a double loop Hilcoil coil in my Alaska and it works very well - pretty much the same setup you've shown. Both my stove and tank are on the same floor - about 20' apart - but I don't see why you can't have them on different levels. You may have to look into proper pump sizing to push the water up 1 floor.

The circulating pump method is what I use and it runs 24/7. I believe it to be a good method.

I would not use plastic piping as I've had water temps over 180 degrees and wouldn't take the chance of plastic failing. I used all copper.

The most important thing IMO is to install 2 pressure relief valves in the system, 1 at the stove and 1 at the holding tank as I've had mine blow off before I added a kick space heater to dump excess heat from the system.

The system works so well that once I fire up the stove for the season, I turn the breaker off for the elec. water heater and it stays off till the end of the season. Other than installing a coal stove I believe the coil to be the best investment I've made in a long time.

Hope that helps some, I'm sure you'll get some more opinions.

 
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Post by CoalHeat » Thu. Feb. 11, 2010 6:42 pm

It is possible, I've done it. I'm heating all the DHW with my Alaska, a small circulator pump and 80 gallons of storage. Recovery is slow during high demand, periods of little or no usage with a medium burn in the stoker will heat the water to 160.
Alaska Kast Console Is Home

 
dolfin3495
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Post by dolfin3495 » Thu. Feb. 11, 2010 9:14 pm

thank you all for the help. sorry for any rookie mistakes for as I am new to even to using a computer and keyboard . I suppose I will get better in time . I enjoy reading what everybody has to share and learning more about coal burning . I think I am addicted to this forum > stokerstove you said you run your pump 24/7, I was told by several plumbers to use a aqua stat to regulate the temperature. is that why you plumbed a heater. I to thought if I could also run a small baseboard heater. I guess I should not think to big to fast . I do have room in my stove for a second loop but I am afraid of losing what great performance it does heating my home which is my first priority. well thanks again

 
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Post by Kenbod » Thu. Feb. 11, 2010 9:35 pm

Definitely check the other posts.

I favor an indirect coil serving as a heat exchanger. Rest assured, the the heating loop will, someday, fail. Connected to your domestic water supply, I hope you'll be home when it happens so you can turn off the water.

Either way, you need some kind of expansion tank, perhaps 2 if you go indirect. My well water is 45F year 'round. With little or no draw, you'll easily experience temps above 160F. An anti-scald valve's a good idea too.

Potential temps are too high for any kind of plastic pipe; proceed with caution there.

 
dolfin3495
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Post by dolfin3495 » Thu. Feb. 11, 2010 10:01 pm

i am not sure what you mean by an indirect coil. why would a loop coil fail for it is stainless . yeah I do think I will stick with copper. open to any advice


 
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Post by stokerstove » Thu. Feb. 11, 2010 10:07 pm

Yes you can use an aquastat in the system and I entertained the idea for a while but decided against it. The added complexity to such a simple system didn't seem justified. I also didn't like the idea of 40'+ of pipe with hot water in them losing their heat, even though insulated, then cycle the cooler water into the system when the aquastat kicks in. The pumps needed for this type of application use very little power, are very quiet, and last a long time - I'm still on my original Grundfos pump for at least 10 years.

 
dolfin3495
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Post by dolfin3495 » Thu. Feb. 11, 2010 10:22 pm

thanks stokerstove just trying to receive as much info. I just looked at another post regarding coil cleaning I was surprised to see that even stainless coil would look that bad. one day I cant wait to get started in doing this and the the more I research I always find something to doubt if its worth it.

 
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Post by WNY » Fri. Feb. 12, 2010 8:34 am

External homemade Coil

Making a External DHW Coil

 
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Post by mcrchap » Tue. Feb. 16, 2010 4:14 pm

Go to Leisure Line Stoves webite. They have a coil they sell, installation instructions. It's actually a 3/4" stainless steel pipe, bent like a "u" and can be used with gravity or a pump. I don't think I'd use plastic pipe. I'd be afraid it would blow apart at the fitting joints. I had a gravity feed water heater to my big ole International coal furnace. It worked great! I don't know if you will have good success gravity feeding hot water from the 1st floor to the basement. You might need a pump for that.

 
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Post by Dannmarr » Sat. Nov. 06, 2010 10:22 pm

Yes,the aquastat will regulate the flow, but the circulating pump will always allow a small amount of water to flow through it even when the aquastat is not calling for water. This prevents the water from cooling down too much and protects the coil inside the stove from overheating.

 
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Post by Short Bus » Sat. Nov. 06, 2010 11:09 pm

I've had side arm hot water tanks both gravity circulated but a few things are required.

Heat rises, hot water must leave the upper port on the stove and go up into the tank, with that in mind I would only slope the pipe up from the stove and into the tank.

The return line to the stove can be flat or sloped down to the lower port in the stove.

Use 1" pipe copper or Iron for best flow, we used small pipe once and the water came out of the stove very hot because it wasn't circulating good, we put larger pipe on and things were better

You will need a circulation pump if you want the tank below the stove. My fathers house had a tank behind the stove in the bathroom to move the stoves heat into that room, no insulation on the tank.

I guess you could put a tank on the same floor as the stove and route the hot water into your electric tank downstairs, no pump required.

I've made steam with side arm tanks, makes you nervous, steam was not uncomon in this town when side arm tanks were popular, I live in a cold climate, stoves run hot..

 
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Post by bug512 » Mon. Dec. 20, 2010 2:43 pm

Check out what I did last year on my Keystoker.

My Thread

Video

 
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Post by Qtown1835 » Tue. Aug. 21, 2018 7:12 am

John86045 wrote:
Tue. Aug. 21, 2018 3:49 am
The home boilers can be controlled by gas or power. Contingent upon how the warming framework is set up a back heater can be utilized if the property has a strong fuel fire. They likewise come in various structures, for example, the blend evaporator, unvented fixed compose or the open vent fixed heater.
Thanks& regards,
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Refugee Tents | Military Tents
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