Do You Use a Humidifier?

This forum is for common products and questions such as chimney installations, CO detectors, coal bin designs and a variety of other general topics that do not fit into the other forums.
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009to090
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Post Mon. Dec. 07, 2009 10:38 pm

Black_And_Blue wrote:I have one of those 90 degree dryer exhaust deflectors with a filter on it to blow the hot/humid clothes dryer exhaust into the basement during the winter. Extra heat and moisture, win win.

The filter I tried, let alot of lint into the utility room. Hows yours working? Does it get "Linty" in your utility room?
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Black_And_Blue
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Post Mon. Dec. 07, 2009 10:44 pm

I think the cat generates more fuzzballs then the vent but yeah a little.
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samler17
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Post Mon. Dec. 07, 2009 11:34 pm

AA130FIREMAN wrote:I was thinking of adding a honeywell steam type to my ductwork, but I was told that without the metal ductwork, I have ductboard, this could create a mold problem. Any thoughts ???


I've installed a couple of Honeywell steam humidifiers and it's right in the instilation instructions not to install on a systen with ductboard. And I'm sure it would cause a serious mold issue. :sick: Yes, I do read instructions. :D

ken
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Post Tue. Dec. 08, 2009 9:17 am

I have an aluminum turkey cooker , like for the oven on top of the stove. I just fill it as needed. Seems work fine.
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Post Sat. Dec. 12, 2009 4:40 pm

Black_And_Blue wrote:I have one of those 90 degree dryer exhaust deflectors with a filter on it to blow the hot/humid clothes dryer exhaust into the basement during the winter. Extra heat and moisture, win win.


I just did that a few weeks ago too. It made a noticable difference.

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Post Sat. Dec. 12, 2009 9:56 pm

There are many types of humidifiers , over the past 20 plus years I reccomended and install Aprilaire humidifiers they are a division of honeywell they make what you call bypass systems and are thermostaticly controlled they have a nice lineup for ductwork applications and are very clean and safe , Ive installed hundreds of them over the years very reliable and work extremly well ive taken them to the point of putting moisture on windows , if you are like me and don't have a furnace or ductwork ,they make a whole home system that work excellent the model 360/350 it is about 12x12 no drain required just water supply like installing a frige Icemaker kit ,and run the t/stat wire down in the wall and hook up the t /stat, 99% of the time I install over a closet door or on a closet wall , compact very easy to install with very accurate results up to 2.500 sq ft. and you get the bounus of moving some hot air around the house

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Post Sat. Dec. 12, 2009 11:11 pm

We have a cabinet style (sears) humidifier. Not the prettiest thing on earth (I need to dust it off) but it works well. It is in the basement and has been modified with a float to refill the water. It would suck through two of the containers of water so I thought to feed it with water and have it automatically fill when it needs it. A simple mechanical float fed from a 1/4" copper tube.
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AA130FIREMAN
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Post Sun. Dec. 13, 2009 8:10 am

crocker wrote:There are many types of humidifiers , over the past 20 plus years I reccomended and install Aprilaire humidifiers they are a division of honeywell they make what you call bypass systems and are thermostaticly controlled they have a nice lineup for ductwork applications and are very clean and safe , Ive installed hundreds of them over the years very reliable and work extremly well ive taken them to the point of putting moisture on windows , if you are like me and don't have a furnace or ductwork ,they make a whole home system that work excellent the model 360/350 it is about 12x12 no drain required just water supply like installing a frige Icemaker kit ,and run the t/stat wire down in the wall and hook up the t /stat, 99% of the time I install over a closet door or on a closet wall , compact very easy to install with very accurate results up to 2.500 sq ft. and you get the bounus of moving some hot air around the house

You have me thinking about installing the aprilaire 360 in my closet. The closet is near my a/c air return which I use for heat, the supply and return are in the ceiling. I have a ranch house and the return is in a hallway between my bedrooms and liv. din.fam. and kitchen. Is it ok to have the humidifier blowing in a narrow hallway ? Would the mold still grow in my ductboard if its real close to the return register ? Could I use a humidistat with a outdoor sensor like a honeywell iaq with the aprilaire 360 ? And would it hurt to run water thats over 140 deg. to the humidifier ? I have a tempering valve on my water heater. And would it be benificial to run the fan in my a/c ductwork controlled by the humidistat or leave the thermostat for heat circulate air ? THANKS FOR ANY HELP When I start a project myself I like to jump in well informed !!! :doh: :gee:


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Post Sun. Dec. 13, 2009 9:23 am

The 350/360 do not need to be near your duct system as they work independently all on their own. The unit was designed for homes with baseboard heating etc. and you will find that just the air movement in the home will distribute the humidity in short order. It is a great unit.
And should you have a piano in your home you will find that it will stay in tune year round with proper humidity control.

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Post Sun. Dec. 13, 2009 9:44 am

Fireman, , Ok from what you explain you have what is called a overhead system horizontal furnace in in attic , with ductboad construction , so I would say you can do either the Aprilaire humidifiers are what is called bypass systems they do not expose direct water in to the duct system like others , the units are out of the main airstream , yes conventional humidifiers will cause mold in duct boad and also sheetmetal but not as fast they also will rot the sheetmetal overtime ,on the aprilaire systems the air is already humidified before it enter back in to the system without having a direct concentraited moisture effect on your system , but your problem would be being you have a overhead system the small water feed line will freeze very quickly in your attic ,so I would say go with the model 360 just on possible freeze factor but you can do the aprilaire model 600 and heat tape the water supply line ,but I don't like to mess around (take a chance of the unknown factor. and if you do still have concerns over your duct board you can drop your return grill down pull out the filter and line your return box with some 26 ga sheetmetal for a couple of bucks , most likly you have 14x30 or 20x30 return box not a lot of sheet metal there to buy. , most people find the range of 30-60 percent comfortable levels ,

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Post Sun. Dec. 13, 2009 10:31 am

THANKS North Candlewood and crocker; I also was thinking about the general aire steam type room whole house (VERY EXPENSIVE). Are the steam type more efficient than the bypass and I would guess they would use alot more electric ? ( THOUGHT OF THIS WHILE SHOWERING ) why not have a bypass damper from bathroom shower fan to blow into living space in winter and outside in summer ? ( I DO NOT USE THE FAN IN THE WINTER, SAVE MY STEAM AND HEAT :idea: )

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Post Sun. Dec. 13, 2009 1:06 pm

Have not used the steam type in years , either on comm/industial.apps or res apps , don't know about the tech of todays steam type , A good humidifier (anytype) will have a good fiiltration system on them , it should pramote a healthy enviorment .mold, bacteria, oders, ect.... the last thing you want to do is have a system that is promoting bad air quality , I would assume all good humidifiers of today use very minimal electric like the Aprilaire product line they promote them as green tech. I am not promoting any product I just go by what my customers are happy with and products that get installed that I do not get negitive feedback (Call Backs) from , my expectations are after I do a HVAC install , the next call I get from that customer is 20 plus years for a new install , I am not in the service buss...since the begining of the 1980 ,I have done hundred of HVAC corrections ,So many corners are cut in the HVAC feild by profit gaining companys its a shame and most of the techs out there learned how to do it the wrong wey ,Some of the installs Ive seen over the years are a complete embarresment to HVAC industry.I am semi retired now and handed my son the reins , I only design (sketch) ductwork now for comm/indus. apps.Let me get off my soapbox, I came here to learn somthing that I know nothing of witch is coal heating.

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Post Sun. Dec. 13, 2009 9:40 pm

ken wrote:I have an aluminum turkey cooker , like for the oven on top of the stove. I just fill it as needed. Seems work fine.


How well does this work, you have to refill very often. I have one of the Aprilaire systems on they central HVAC system but now with the coal stove in the basement it dosnt run much so think I could use a little extra humidity.

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Post Tue. Dec. 15, 2009 11:30 pm

I have used a humidifier for years...in the duct exhaust from my propane (now coal) system.

A month ago, my wife was mentioning that it didn't seem like we were getting much air flow to the back of the house.

After poking around a bit, I removed some insulation downstream from the humidifier and found 10+ feet of galvanized duct that was rusted out like swiss cheese and leaking like crazy.

As of then, the humidifier and all the rusted ducting was removed.

I doubt that I will put a humidifier of that type back in.

Anyone else had this type of problem and what did / do you to prevent it? besides aluminum or stainless (ouch) ducting, IF it is available.

I live in a all wood house and want a humidifier running, but don't want to go through that mess again.

ken
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Post Wed. Dec. 16, 2009 12:42 pm

Dave , usally fill it every other day. Takes almost 2 pitchers to fill it. My stove is in the living room. I doubt it will help your upstairs with yours being in the basement.
"Politicians are like socks; if you don't change them often enough they start to stink."


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