Manometer

Post Reply
bugize
Member
Posts: 109
Joined: Sat. Aug. 26, 2006 2:49 pm
Stove/Furnace Make: Harman
Stove/Furnace Model: Mark3
Location: Oakland,Maine
Contact:

Post Fri. Jan. 19, 2007 4:53 pm

hey all I got a question.
this afternoon I installed a baro damper and a manometer,its one of the tube type.i have it filled with water to the 0 mark,my stove is running good...about 30 out with a slight breeze,when I check my draft,the water doesnt move...nuthin...i also have the baro weight all the way out and it isnt even really flipping back and forth.
should I wait till its colder? I was using a hand damper but I thought by some of the post in here this would be a better set up,and safer. I don't want my heat going up the chimney.i can barely stand next to the stove to check the draft its so hot,the stove pipe is running around 300..as of now! it will cool to about 200 in alittle while!

User avatar
coaledsweat
Site Moderator
Posts: 9904
Joined: Fri. Oct. 27, 2006 2:05 pm
Stoker Coal Boiler: Axeman Anderson 260M
Coal Size/Type: Pea
Location: Guilford, Connecticut

Post Fri. Jan. 19, 2007 5:08 pm

First I would test your meter to see if you've hooked up the hose right and it works. Simply put the end in your mouth and give a gentle push of air and a draw back to see if it moves. If it does, then you need a small hole in the staightest portion of pipe near the middle (must be before the barometric damper). With a short length of steel tubing on the end of your hose, get the tube end in the middle of your smokepipe and there is your draft. Depending on what unit you have, set your baro to break the draft. Most stokers around .05, and handfired around .06 usually.

I finally bought my own manometer the other day, and of course they don't come with a little metal tube. You can use a short length of brake line, works great.

bugize
Member
Posts: 109
Joined: Sat. Aug. 26, 2006 2:49 pm
Stove/Furnace Make: Harman
Stove/Furnace Model: Mark3
Location: Oakland,Maine
Contact:

Post Fri. Jan. 19, 2007 5:47 pm

:shock: hey thx for responding coaled,the manometer came with the plastic tube and a brass fitting that is threaded on the end that screws into the stove pipe,i put the tube on the ribbed end thats sticking out...i have worked the water with my mouth and that works fine...my increments above zero are...1/2 1 1 1/2 2 so I assume 1/2 is .05???
but like I said....it doesnt move the water in the manometer at all....the baro isnt moving....basically saying I have no draft..LOL! my chimney does go higher than my roof....i feel I spent good money for no reason....i should still get a reading even at 30 out right?

dirvine96
Member
Posts: 106
Joined: Fri. Dec. 08, 2006 9:04 am
Stove/Furnace Make: Hitzer 82FA
Location: Rochester New York

Post Fri. Jan. 19, 2007 6:08 pm

What you have is a manometer thats used for measuring positive pressure. Usally gas. Nat Gas appl. operate at about 3 1/2 inches of water collum. What I use is an incline manometer with what I call Dwyer Fluid. Its a red fuild that is used instead of water like the one you have. Has to do with the specific gravity of the fuild or somthing like that. I think there are a couple of thread that talk about different Dwyer prouducts. I think you can get a cheep one for about $30 dollars. The one I use is about $150. I used to use to measure negative gas presure gas valves on the old Amana High Eff furnaces.

Good luck

Don


User avatar
coal_kid
Member
Posts: 105
Joined: Tue. Nov. 07, 2006 11:19 pm
Location: South Williamsport, PA

Post Fri. Jan. 19, 2007 6:32 pm

This is how I do mine. I read how Barley Master had his hooked up, and did what he did. The break line sounds like a good idea, the 2ft copper pipe was avilalbe at lowes. Its 1/4 OD, only about $2.
Attachments
2006-12-30-Manometer-Hookedup-Wide-1-800.jpg
2006-12-30-Manometer-Hookedup-Closeup-1-800.jpg

User avatar
coaledsweat
Site Moderator
Posts: 9904
Joined: Fri. Oct. 27, 2006 2:05 pm
Stoker Coal Boiler: Axeman Anderson 260M
Coal Size/Type: Pea
Location: Guilford, Connecticut

Post Fri. Jan. 19, 2007 6:35 pm

You need one that measures in hundreths of an inch (0.01-0.07 is our range with coal) and they typically max out around 3" in that style. Like this.

**Broken Link(s) Removed**

bugize
Member
Posts: 109
Joined: Sat. Aug. 26, 2006 2:49 pm
Stove/Furnace Make: Harman
Stove/Furnace Model: Mark3
Location: Oakland,Maine
Contact:

Post Fri. Jan. 19, 2007 6:57 pm

:? hey thx guys....it does say something on it about gas pressure,and I don't have the fine increments on it...i told the guy what it was for and everything....at a local plumbing and heating place no less. I still cant get over my baro not moving with the weight all the way out!

User avatar
coaledsweat
Site Moderator
Posts: 9904
Joined: Fri. Oct. 27, 2006 2:05 pm
Stoker Coal Boiler: Axeman Anderson 260M
Coal Size/Type: Pea
Location: Guilford, Connecticut

Post Fri. Jan. 19, 2007 7:04 pm

If you get that thing to move with a coal stove, it (the stove) will just be a puddle of metal on the floor.

The baro should have some #s on the sliding weight for a baseline setup.


bugize
Member
Posts: 109
Joined: Sat. Aug. 26, 2006 2:49 pm
Stove/Furnace Make: Harman
Stove/Furnace Model: Mark3
Location: Oakland,Maine
Contact:

Post Fri. Jan. 19, 2007 8:52 pm

:? really? I expected it to flop back and forth like with wood,i had one on a wood furnace and it would open and shut fairly often! I am glad ya told me gee. :? :shock:

User avatar
coaledsweat
Site Moderator
Posts: 9904
Joined: Fri. Oct. 27, 2006 2:05 pm
Stoker Coal Boiler: Axeman Anderson 260M
Coal Size/Type: Pea
Location: Guilford, Connecticut

Post Fri. Jan. 19, 2007 9:22 pm

bugize wrote::? really? I expected it to flop back and forth like with wood,i had one on a wood furnace and it would open and shut fairly often! I am glad ya told me gee. :? :shock:
No, I'm talking about the draft gauge. If a coal burner pulled the kind of draft that thing shows, it would be a blast furnace. The Baro will act about the same as wood. Sounds like you've got a good chimney.

User avatar
WNY
Member
Posts: 5864
Joined: Mon. Nov. 14, 2005 8:40 am
Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: Keystoker 90K, Leisure Line Hyfire I
Coal Size/Type: Rice
Stove/Furnace Make: Keystoker, LL & CoalTrol
Stove/Furnace Model: 90K, Hyfire I, VF3000 Soon
Location: Cuba, NY
Contact:

Post Fri. Jan. 19, 2007 9:37 pm

The manometers take special fluids with a certain specific gravity. Certain colors oils with different viscosities and specific gravity for different pressures. If you are using water, it probably won't work correctly or you have to get more pressure to move the water.

Good reading.
**Broken Link(s) Removed**

barley master
Member
Posts: 69
Joined: Tue. Nov. 14, 2006 7:32 am
Location: schuylkill / lehigh line

Post Tue. Jan. 23, 2007 10:05 pm

coaledsweat wrote:You need one that measures in hundreths of an inch (0.01-0.07 is our range with coal) and they typically max out around 3" in that style. Like this.

**Broken Link(s) Removed**
this is the one you need to accuarately read your draft.

youll never get the one that reads in tenths to read 3 to 5" because your stove will most likely melt at or around 2"

we are dealing with very small units of pressure in the terms of draft.

i have my dwyer hooked to the stove in the garage which I took off my Harman for the house. the one I put on the house it a magnahelic with a 0 to .3 range. its a analog gauge but I don't like it as compared the dwyer.

Post Reply

Return to “Coal Bins, Chimneys, CO Detectors & Thermostats”