Wall Getting Hot

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gibblets
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Post Sat. Dec. 09, 2006 11:56 pm

I have an Alaska Kast console. With the feed on setting 4, the wall behind it gets really hot. Is there some sort of protection I can put between the stove and wall?

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Berlin
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Post Sun. Dec. 10, 2006 12:13 am

a piece of unpainted sheet aluminum or galvanized steel will prevent virtually all radiation and thus heat from reaching the wall.
Burning western Pennsylvania Bituminous in WNY using model 77 stoker furnace. BITUMINOUS equiptment: 2 hand fired stoves of my own design, Many Combustioneer Model 77 stokers, stokermatic furnace, Many Will-Burt stokers, & and Two Iron firemen.

BurninCoalInRI
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Post Sun. Dec. 10, 2006 12:54 am

especially if its spaced out 1" from the wall.

a quick and easy way to do that is get a sheet of shiny sheetmetal the right size (or 2) and screw 2" drywall screws into the studs (use a studfinder) leaving 1" sticking out .

then screw the sheetmetal with 2" or 2 1/2" drywall screws rigyt next to where the standoff screws are.

but since u noticed it, get that heat off the wall... a fire risk is nothing to mess with.


gibblets
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Post Sun. Dec. 10, 2006 7:42 am

great. thanks for the tips.

AL-53
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Post Sun. Dec. 10, 2006 8:27 am

you can also use a sheet of cement board or fireboard...I have had a sheet of cement board between my stove and stairs for over 4 years and working great....I bought a sheet at lowes for about 9.00....

AL

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LsFarm
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Post Sun. Dec. 10, 2006 10:03 am

And better yet, combine Berlin's tip and Al53's. Use a sheet of cement backer-board, and glue a layer of aluminum foil to it. It is amazing how effective a reflective layer is.

You can use spray-on contact cement to attach the aluminum foil if you want to give it a try. 3M 77 or 777 I think is what I've used in the past.

BTW: what is the distance from the back of the stove to the wall??

Greg L
Burning Pea/Buckwheat through an antique stoker [semi retired SSboiler],
Running an Axeman-Anderson 260M boiler burning Pea, About 150-250#per day
Farming, Fixing, Fabricating and Flying: 'spare time' what's that?


BurninCoalInRI
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Post Mon. Dec. 11, 2006 10:01 pm

i'd like to suggest (out of paranoia) that when that foil gets darker with age, stins, etc, that 3m adhesive could be flammable.

i think this is one wheel that we shouldnt try to reinvent.

in general, you want a completely NON-flammable shield, spaced 1" away from flammables.

an appropriately sized sheet of tin, spaced 1" away works just fine, and don't forget 1" space off the floor to let the cool air in.

thats the AFPA standard, is code in most jurisdictions, and has shown me by experience to be the most effective.

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LsFarm
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Post Mon. Dec. 11, 2006 10:55 pm

Good point BCinRI. I'm sure that the sheet of aluminum with a 1" space is by far the best way to do the job.

However, finding a place to buy a large sheet of aluminum or stainless steel and getting it installed may be a bit of a tough job. And expensive. This could delay getting that wall shielded and cooled down.

I really hadn't thought about the contact cement being flamable, but the spray on stuff is very thin. I've used it for the same purpose in the past. But it could be a problem none the less.

I would recommend getting anything as a shield to protect the wall ASAP. A sheet of backerboard is the most common and readily available. And then get a piece of aluminum or stainless steel ordered.

Greg L
Burning Pea/Buckwheat through an antique stoker [semi retired SSboiler],
Running an Axeman-Anderson 260M boiler burning Pea, About 150-250#per day
Farming, Fixing, Fabricating and Flying: 'spare time' what's that?

BurninCoalInRI
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Post Mon. Dec. 11, 2006 11:46 pm

it doesnt have to be stainless or even aluminum. I use galv sheet metal, and it can be as thin as 24 guage. can buy that in a sheet from many locations, pretty cheap. even home depot has them in smaller sizes which can be overlapped. I did this once in a pinch.

more recently I've used 1/8" steel I bought from surplus in 4x8 sheet which I cut down with the sawzall. and plan to paint it brick red with the mortar lines on it for that fake brick look lol. but 1/8" it way too thick for whats neded.

the 1" space off the floor is key, allows cool air to go it and therefore heat get out the top of that 1" gap behind the shield.

here is a good general guide I found:

http://www.goodtimestove.com/faqs_woodstove.html

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LsFarm
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Location: Michigan

Post Mon. Dec. 11, 2006 11:55 pm

All good ideas, I like the painted on brick idea. Just so the wall get some kind of shield soon. I would hate to hear of a fire.

Greg L
Burning Pea/Buckwheat through an antique stoker [semi retired SSboiler],
Running an Axeman-Anderson 260M boiler burning Pea, About 150-250#per day
Farming, Fixing, Fabricating and Flying: 'spare time' what's that?

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