HW Suggestions Needed...

This forum is for common products and questions such as chimney installations, CO detectors, coal bin designs and a variety of other general topics that do not fit into the other forums.
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LsFarm
Member
Posts: 7385
Joined: Sun. Nov. 20, 2005 8:02 pm
Stoker Coal Boiler: Axeman Anderson 260
Hand Fed Coal Boiler: Self-built 'Big Bertha' SS Boiler
Baseburners & Antiques: Keystone 11, Art Garland
Location: Michigan

Post Fri. Dec. 08, 2006 9:25 pm

Mark, thanks for catching the error in my link. I have fixed it.

Greg L
Burning Pea/Buckwheat through an antique stoker [semi retired SSboiler],
Running an Axeman-Anderson 260M boiler burning Pea, About 150-250#per day
Farming, Fixing, Fabricating and Flying: 'spare time' what's that?

stokerstove
Member
Posts: 135
Joined: Wed. Jan. 25, 2006 4:05 pm
Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: Alaska Kodiak Stokerstove 1
Location: NE PA

Post Sat. Dec. 09, 2006 9:14 am

I am currently using my existing 50 gal. elec. HW tank for my setup. In the early fall I let the elec. on till it gets colder and I turn the stove up, then I shut the elec. off till the spring. My stove is 15' - 20' from the WH, so I use a small in line pump. I considered a separate tank but Lsfarm is right - the reg HW tank will cool while sitting.
Since we don't have small children around anymore we don't use a tempering valve, but this morn. the water was HOT!
I installed a baseboard in an unheated room to the loop so some of the heat from the hot water during the night gets used - that room stayed at 72 degrees last night.
I keep trying to think of ways to eliminate the pump but it always seems to end up being the most logical system.
Another thing I'm considering is using a tempering tank again. I used to have a 50 gal. tank mounted between the ceiling joists in the basement above the wood stove years back. Being on a well, keeping the water entering the system above 55 degrees has to help some too, especially when the stove is shut down for the summer.

BurninCoalInRI
Member
Posts: 65
Joined: Mon. Dec. 04, 2006 4:01 am

Post Sat. Dec. 09, 2006 5:00 pm

Got some stuff on ebay: (still not sure which coil to get)

CONBRACO 10-407-05 3/4" 30 PSI Boiler Relief Valve MXF (110008701386) 1 US $10.50

TACO 007, 007F, 007-F, 007-F5 CAST IRON CIRCULATOR (6032185309) 1 US $58.50

TACO 3/4" CAST IRON FLANGE SET W/ NUTS & BOLTS 110-251F (7524689246) 1 US $7.99 US $7.99

TACO 218 3/4" IPS FLOW CHECK VALVE Flo-Chek, Flo-check (7619003840)

ALSO, I am totally baffled how I can have a 30psi Pressure Relief Valve on the HW heater, when our pressure is MUCH higher than that. (And no there is not any pressure reducer on the water main or anywhere in the house water system).


User avatar
LsFarm
Member
Posts: 7385
Joined: Sun. Nov. 20, 2005 8:02 pm
Stoker Coal Boiler: Axeman Anderson 260
Hand Fed Coal Boiler: Self-built 'Big Bertha' SS Boiler
Baseburners & Antiques: Keystone 11, Art Garland
Location: Michigan

Post Sat. Dec. 09, 2006 6:02 pm

BCinRI, you want a Watts valve for a hot water heater, not a pressure relief valve for a boiler. They look very similar, but are different items.

You can buy a watts valve at a good hardware store or plumbing store. A watts valve will relieve with either heat, or pressure or both.

The 30# PRV for a boiler is just a pressure valve. A boiler has a pressure reducing valve manitaining 6-8psi to the water in the boiler. ONce the water is heated, it expands and the pressure rises. There is an expansion tank to provide room for the water to expand. The pressure rises to around 12-18psi, depending on the volume or water, and the capacity of the expansion tank.

My Propane boiler stays at about 10-15psi when hot.

So find a watts valve, and don't buy the boiler relief valve, it isn't what you need.

Greg L
Burning Pea/Buckwheat through an antique stoker [semi retired SSboiler],
Running an Axeman-Anderson 260M boiler burning Pea, About 150-250#per day
Farming, Fixing, Fabricating and Flying: 'spare time' what's that?

BurninCoalInRI
Member
Posts: 65
Joined: Mon. Dec. 04, 2006 4:01 am

Post Sat. Dec. 09, 2006 7:09 pm

ok, thanks for the clarification on that....

looks like I have a plan, just need to choose which coil to purchase.

stokerstove
Member
Posts: 135
Joined: Wed. Jan. 25, 2006 4:05 pm
Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: Alaska Kodiak Stokerstove 1
Location: NE PA

Post Sat. Dec. 09, 2006 10:01 pm

BCinRI, I got my stainless steel coil here:

http://www.hilkoil.com/

It has served me well.


BurninCoalInRI
Member
Posts: 65
Joined: Mon. Dec. 04, 2006 4:01 am

Post Sun. Dec. 10, 2006 12:20 am

ya, I just don't know which model. i'd like to get the 21t and use an 80gal tank with it to get the most out of this. would just like to find soemone who has used that one, its 10" wide.... not sure it would fit the firebox.

.
stokerstove wrote:BCinRI, I got my stainless steel coil here:

http://www.hilkoil.com/

It has served me well.

wenchris
Member
Posts: 127
Joined: Fri. Sep. 09, 2005 11:01 am
Stove/Furnace Make: Harman
Stove/Furnace Model: Magnum stoker with water coil
Location: Long Island NY

Post Sun. Dec. 10, 2006 10:03 am

Just take the outside dimensions of the coil and make a cardboard mock up and see how you can fit it in your mag. This is what I did with the 24s. The overall length is including the threads. You can call Hilkoil and he can give you the exact dinensions, but he does'nt know the different stoves.
Stay warm, Jimmy

BurninCoalInRI
Member
Posts: 65
Joined: Mon. Dec. 04, 2006 4:01 am

Post Mon. Dec. 11, 2006 10:13 pm

Obtained a almost new 80 Gal elec water heater today for $100, have the following on the way (ebay, all new)

1) taco 007 circ pump and flanges $80
2) Watts Tempering Valve $46
3) Taco 218 flow check valve $25
4) HW Tank 80-gal elec $110
5) Hilkoil 21t (approx $200, will order tomorrow)

Total so far: about $460

The old water heater is way past its lifespan, so the hw heater would have been needed anyway.

Also, still need another TPR valve I want to run 2 for safety.

Which brings a question, if the stove water shares the TPR port inlet, doesnt that risk it opening up due to the sometimes very hot ater from the stove?

Anothsr question: Should the circ pump be connected to the combustion blower outlet? The stove is only really hot when its running, after all.

Why would I even need a aquastat to turn on the circ pump then?

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