Walked in the house tonight after work and that old feeling of having to go outside and stoke the fire came over me. Looked at the T-stat and it said 65 degree's. Dang. I could hear the boiler running so I went down to check it out. The fire had burned out. Everything seem to be working fine. Pin wasn't sheared. Hmmm thought I may have just had small pocket of coal over the auger so it didnt' feed any coal in. I stuck a steel rod in my barrel but no noticeable coal fell down like there was this coal cave at the bottom of my barrel. So I cranked in some coal and started a fire. 1/2 later boiler was around 120 degree's so I went upstairs and kicked on the heat. Grabbed a snacked and hopped on the couch. Went checked on the fire and it looked good. Heat was blowing but house wasn't getting warm. Checked water temp again and it was at 180 degree's. Felt the pipes, hot to the heat exchanger and cold, ice cold coming out. Uh Oh.
My pump died. I took out the cartridge (007) and the impeller didn't want to turn very good. After messing with it I got it to spin pretty free and stuck it back in. I'm making heat now! So..........
Should I just buy a new pump? Or the Cartridge? Looking online I see the cartridge is around $54 and a pump is $69. Hmmm Is it worth the savings to just buy a cartridge?
Buy a New Pump or a New Pump Cartridge?
- Poconoeagle
- Member
- Posts: 6397
- Joined: Sat. Nov. 08, 2008 7:26 pm
- Location: Tobyhanna PA
When my 007 or 006 goes, hard water eats impeller , its a 5 min job to slip a cartridge in. I can't see the need to sweat/unbolt flange and look for more work. then again keeping a half dozen cartridges ......
after a input water filter installation, my cartridges are collecting dust now
after a input water filter installation, my cartridges are collecting dust now
- Sting
- Member
- Posts: 2983
- Joined: Mon. Feb. 25, 2008 4:24 pm
- Location: Lower Fox Valley = Wisconsin
- Other Heating: OBSO Lennox Pulse "Air Scorcher" burning NG
if you can get the right cartridge -- most of my pumps are obso -- its all the moving parts -- no need to pull the body and renew the flange seals if you just change the cartridge ...
Just my opinion
your millage may vary
Just my opinion
your millage may vary
- whistlenut
- Member
- Posts: 3548
- Joined: Sat. Mar. 17, 2007 6:29 pm
- Location: Central NH, Concord area
- Stoker Coal Boiler: AA130's,260's, AHS130&260's,EFM900,GJ & V-Wert
- Hand Fed Coal Boiler: Franks,Itasca 415,Jensen, NYer 130,Van Wert
- Hot Air Coal Stoker Furnace: Alaska, EFM, Keystoker, Yellow Flame
- Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: Alaska, Keystoker-2,Leisure Line
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: Alaska, Gibraltar, Keystone,Vc Vigilant 2
- Hand Fed Coal Furnace: Ford, Jensen, NYer, Van Wert,
- Baseburners & Antiques: Glenwoods
- Coal Size/Type: Barley, Buck, Rice ,Nut, Stove
- Other Heating: Oil HWBB
If you can find one locally. I NEVER even bother anymore, sometimes it is not just the armature piece, and you will be 'smokin' if you spent the time to replace it and it doesn't perform. One other thing we always do is to reach into any new circ with a small screwdriver and spin the impeller to make sure it is free. You will be 'smokin' again if you replace the circ and all it does is hum. Takes 10 seconds, saves 10 minutes......if there is an issue. You might want to upgrade to a 00R single or three speed if you replace the whole unit. More flow, higher head abilities, less electric usage, upgraded unit. for almost the same money. 2 steps up from OEM.
Forgot to mention, a new circ comes with new gaskets, however if you are one of those guys who didn't anti-sieze the bolts, then get a pair of bolts. If you did, or they are free, disregard.
Forgot to mention, a new circ comes with new gaskets, however if you are one of those guys who didn't anti-sieze the bolts, then get a pair of bolts. If you did, or they are free, disregard.
- Yanche
- Member
- Posts: 3026
- Joined: Fri. Dec. 23, 2005 12:45 pm
- Location: Sykesville, Maryland
- Stoker Coal Boiler: Alternate Heating Systems S-130
- Coal Size/Type: Anthracite Pea
You can usually change the cartridge without have to touch the flanges. So you don't then have to deal with replacing the flange gaskets. The cartridge comes with a new o-ring like gasket. I make my choice based on how the flange gaskets look. If there is water weeping or they look old and dried, I replace the entire pump with new flange gaskets. If they look good I replace the cartridge only. Depending on availability and pricing I sometimes buy a pump and remove the cartridge. Note that the older 007 pumps had nice aluminum castings for the stator housing. The new ones are a deep drawn can. There is a difference between old an new styles as to how it bolts together. You can mix but you will need extra screws with nuts. I've sometimes found deals on a less that full lot of cartridges. The supply house don't sell many because most plumbers just replace the entire pump. I think the cartridges come in boxes of 12. If you are buying on-line make sure they have the cartridges in stock, because if they are ordering them it can take a while.
- whistlenut
- Member
- Posts: 3548
- Joined: Sat. Mar. 17, 2007 6:29 pm
- Location: Central NH, Concord area
- Stoker Coal Boiler: AA130's,260's, AHS130&260's,EFM900,GJ & V-Wert
- Hand Fed Coal Boiler: Franks,Itasca 415,Jensen, NYer 130,Van Wert
- Hot Air Coal Stoker Furnace: Alaska, EFM, Keystoker, Yellow Flame
- Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: Alaska, Keystoker-2,Leisure Line
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: Alaska, Gibraltar, Keystone,Vc Vigilant 2
- Hand Fed Coal Furnace: Ford, Jensen, NYer, Van Wert,
- Baseburners & Antiques: Glenwoods
- Coal Size/Type: Barley, Buck, Rice ,Nut, Stove
- Other Heating: Oil HWBB
Man, you get up early! The sheep hungry?