Types of Heating Oil Supply Lines

huntabsarokee · Post by **huntabsarokee** » Mon. Feb. 23, 2009 8:11 am

Well I see oil is down again (1.75) so I may try to fire up my KA6 duel fuel on oil. When I removed my old oil burner it had a copper supply line but it is too short to reach the new burner. What else is there besides copper to run the fuel line from the tank to the burner? Anybody use SS braided like they do in fuel lines? What kind of fittings to they use for that type of line? I am not against copper just looking for something a little more flexible that I can maybe coil up when not using the oil gun and running on coal.

Thanks!

TimV · Post by **TimV** » Mon. Feb. 23, 2009 8:25 am

Now you mention copper on oil. I cant remember ever seeing anything but copper on a oil gun.
Maybe its some code rule?
A call to major plumbing /heating would let you know .
You could just add a section to what you have and make a coil to give it flexibility.

coalkirk · Post by **coalkirk** » Mon. Feb. 23, 2009 8:29 am

that would a perfect opportunity to install shut offs and a inline filter if you don't already have them.

huntabsarokee · Post by **huntabsarokee** » Mon. Feb. 23, 2009 9:26 am

Yeah I plan on putting a shut off just before the gun. Someone else here had pics of their boiler install and I noticed the shutoff and thought that was a great idea.

Freddy · Post by **Freddy** » Mon. Feb. 23, 2009 9:51 am

Last I knew the law was not only copper, but it must be protected. Either put inside that flexible blue cover, or buy the copper that has that rigid orange plastic already on it. The protection can stop near the burner once the tube is up off the floor. On the tank end must be a firematic valve.

whistlenut · Post by **whistlenut** » Mon. Feb. 23, 2009 10:41 am

It has to be shielded(coated) and should be sleeved when under/through concrete. It is a perfect opportunity to add valves and a second twist-off filter near the burner. Most techs will say that they have two filters at their own homes.(A comment on fuel quality) New ball valves on either end of the filter make changing it very easy and less messy. Everyone must know that you need a firamatic at the tank and at the burner. It's inexpensive and much safer. Consider a 1/2" line if you are replacing an old one. Depends on distance, but if you are replacing or adding, why not.

djackman · Post by **djackman** » Mon. Feb. 23, 2009 11:22 am

A vacuum gauge on the pump side of the filter is a worthwhile addition.

huntabsarokee · Post by **huntabsarokee** » Mon. Feb. 23, 2009 3:24 pm

If I had to guess my old line is 3/8 but I do have an old partial roll of 1/2 at home which may be long enough. Can you buy the protective sleeve separately? Does it just go over the copper? I know both my houses did not have it. The copper just ran on top of the concrete with a few clamps screwed to the concrete so it wouldn't move. What type of the threads do they usually use for the fittings? I know when I removed my old boiler I tried capping the old fuel line and I am pretty sure it wasn't NPT.

Post by **coaledsweat** » Mon. Feb. 23, 2009 6:01 pm

I think it is a JIC flare. If you are just adding a short piece to connect it to the pump, it needs no protective sleeve. The sleeve protects the copper from the cement which secretes an acid. Once off the floor, it doesn't need it. You should be able to find fittings and connectors at an auto parts store, DORMAN IIRC. The pump itself is NPT for the record, the tube side of the fitting is not.

whistlenut · Post by **whistlenut** » Mon. Feb. 23, 2009 6:21 pm

The sleeve material is available at any supply house, probably at the big box stores. Years ago we used black plastic pipe and went with 1" just to make pulling in a new line easier. Frequently when a plumber forgot to sleeve from a tank to a boiler pad, we'd put in black plastic in a best guess location. Sure beats a jackhammer. Double flares are what we use, don't know what is required where you live. NO compression fitting, it must be flared. I thought the vacuum gauge was another GREAT idea. simple to so while piping and very beneficial. Answers at a glance. Like an permanent draft gauge, KISS works again.

009to090 · Post by **009to090** » Mon. Feb. 23, 2009 10:49 pm

whistlenut wrote:The sleeve material is available at any supply house, probably at the big box stores. Years ago we used black plastic pipe and went with 1" just to make pulling in a new line easier. Frequently when a plumber forgot to sleeve from a tank to a boiler pad, we'd put in black plastic in a best guess location. Sure beats a jackhammer. Double flares are what we use, don't know what is required where you live. NO compression fitting, it must be flared. I thought the vacuum gauge was another GREAT idea. simple to so while piping and very beneficial. Answers at a glance. Like an permanent draft gauge, KISS works again.

Yep, double flares on mine. 3/8" copper. Just got the tank and furnace replaced in '05. But it passed inspection without any sleeves. Do you need to sleeve it ONLY if it goes under or thru the slab?
My new Roth tank sits 6 feet from the new oil burner. The copper feed line follows the wall around to the burner. Off the ground.

Chris F.

syncmaster · Post by **syncmaster** » Mon. Mar. 02, 2009 7:57 am

My VF3000 came with a braided oil supply line.
you can buy them at a plumbing&heating supply store I saw it at Blackman plumbing.
They came in 3ft or 5 ft lengths.

check out the pictures I posted "firing the VF3000 on oil"

Firing the Harman VF3000 on Oil

I looked into getting another flex line because the oil gun height (off the floor) is about the same level as the oil level in my oil tank when it is 1/2 full so it may not flow by gravity from the tank to the oil gun.
So I was thinking I might need to add a return line from the oil gun back to the tank.

I am only burning coal right now so It is not a problem .
If the price of oil stays low ($1.48/gal [cash]) I will probly switch to oil for the summer and then I might need to add the extra return line.