Hearth Pad Construction

time to ask the experts!!!
I had every intention of building my own hearth pad while I wait for my alaska channing 3 to arrive in Dec. I went to my local stove shop to inspect their stock pads ($420) I wanted to get an idea on how to build one myself. While I was there I was told by sales rep a few things that had me stop and think.
She said local building inspector came in the store and was inquiring about the materials used in constructing the pads and did the plywood have a ul-rating? She warned me about trying to construct a pad on my own. She also said that I cannot put a wood trim around the pad because it is a coal stove. She said I would have to use a metal frame.
1) WHat materials did you guys use?
2) Did you use wood trim?
3) If I need ul-rated wood , can I find it locally?
4) should I fear the inspector?
I planned on using 3/4 osb plywood covered with felt paper with 1" flagstone set in cement for my pad trimmed with oak. Is she trying to scare me into a sale? HELP!!!!!!

you can build your own for about $100.00. built my hearth with a 2"x6" frame work with 3/4" plywood fastened
to the 2"x6"'s then applied 1/2" wonder board, or cement board with a 1/4" thin set with 12x12 tiles. in respect to the wood frame that you discussed, that would fall under the stove manufacturer's recomendations for the 18" clear from combustibles
The hearth is non combustible. Building official love to throw out the U.L. ratings. The fact is that you can submit your
hearth assembly to U.L.to determine the rating. each individual component of the hearth has it's own u.l. rating.

I used cement board and tile and built it in place. If you build it in the garage and then try to move it into place it could crack from the weight and flex. I trimmed mine out with a different tile for contrast. I'll post a pic tomorrow. Are u doing a corner install? Here is a big tip. DON'T USE PREMIXED THINSET. If you read the bucket it states that it can't handle much heat at all and the tile could pop up. Buy a bag of the real stuff and mix it yourself.

plywood with a UL-Rating. thats a new one on me.

Glenni, I'm sure that there is someone in the back room of your dealer's store, making those Hearth pads for about $80 worth of materials and about two hours labor..

Make your own, have a feeling of accomplishment, and it will match your room, stone, floors etc..

UL approved plywood.. I asked the owner of my local lumber yard, and he said with a grin,, 'Sure we have that, right next to the Muffler Bearings and invisible rust-proofing paint'

I'd take a BS alarm with me the next time I visited that dealer..

Greg L

If u believ that I have a Johnson rod I'll sell you so you can get 500 miles to the gallon.

The following is the U.L. for Building materials

UL 723 -- Tests for Surface Burning Characteristics of Building Materials (ASTM E84/NFPA 255)

The following is a link to certified untreated plywood

http://database.ul.com/cgi-bin/XYV/template/LISEX ... sequence=1

Hey by the way thanks for the sarcasim.

Here are some pics.

That UL rating is for Luan Plywood, which is low cost Mahogany plywood.. it burns like gasoline.. Regular fir or pine plywood would be more flame resistant.. and regardless.. the plywood would be on the floor, covered with a layer of ceramic tile.. how could it ever get enough heat or flame to need to have a fire-resistant rating... You could use newspaper for all it would make a difference.. the floor under a stove rarely gets more than warm, much less the floor under a layer of ceramic tile and cement..

It's all a bunch of nonsence.. Some flim-flam sales pitch to sell their hearth pads..

Greg L

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I believe I was wrong when I described the wood as ul- rated plywood. It was more like a particle board that she claimed was given a ul-rating. In either case it sounds like she is blowing smoke you know where.
I am doing a corner install. I plan on building frame in garage then set it in living room to install tile. as far as building frame it seems to be 3/4 plywood, covered with cement board. then thinset (not from pre-mix) topped with tile. some confusion still exists as far as the trim goes. can I or cant I use wood trim?
I was also wondering if anybody out there had used flagstone?
Please keep advice coming!!!

traderfjp wrote:Here are some pics.

Hi Traderftp,
Pray tell what is the thermometer neatly centered above the fuel door on your Channing 3? I'm waiting for my Channing to arrive, and trying to collect useful accessories. Should I get one of these?
Thanks.

It's a thermometer with a magnet on the back but it's not needed. I was just curious how hot the stove gets at different firing rates.

not sure it'll help other than a design idea. I'm fortunate to be on a slab where I wanted my stove and I didnt want the step up look. Corner install hindered only by the step leading into the bathroom. Floor tile on thinset, thats it with Pergo leading up to the tile.

Friends of mine with traditional floor construction, have laid a double layer of Dura-Rock, then tile on thinset to keep the rise as small as possible. Looks great and supports the tiles and stove well.

No matter, I agree with everyone, do it yourself if you can.

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I have the same corner set up as you show in your pics. Did you find that the sheet rock got extremly hot
perpendicular to the rear edge of the stove. I have a leisure line stove with aprox. 14" to the sheet rock
but got worried about the heat and installed wonder board and cultured stone.

I have the same corner set up as you show in your pics. Did you find that the sheet rock got extremely hot
perpendicular to the rear edge of the stove. I have a leisure line stove with aprox. 14" to the sheet rock
but got worried about the heat and installed wonder board and cultured stone.

I assume you are asking me The DVC-500 requires 9" I believe (its been a while) to a non combustible surface in this config. The sheetrock doesn't get warm at all. The back of the unit is all motors, electronics and the hopper. As a matter of fact, even after hours of running, the hopper lid is warm but touchable while the surface right above the fire area is understandably untouchable.