Coalpail.com Forum

Trader that gasket taht is in the back is called stongback gasket and I don't think I would burn the stove with out it . Some stove like a Keystoker or carpet feed Alaska you can get away with using the refractory cement but these paddle feed grates I have my doubts about. All channing III are padlle fed stoves . The Paddle is the half moon shaped pusher at the bottom of the hopper near the throat.

I'll order a new one but I had no choice. I couldn't get the grate to pop into place. I used 2000 degree cement from Leisure Line and then cemented the front of the grate where it meets the stove (replaces casket) and the top lip of the grate where the shoot meets the grate coming off the paddle area. I feel confident in the cement and the fire is where it should be. I used naval jelly and sanded everything before applying the cement so it would stick.

I replaced the gasket on mine. I do see another issue that I didn't notice before. It doesn't look like my carpet is pushing the ash off the pan, and the coal is just piling up behind the flame. Any ideas? This may be the cause of the coal catching fire for me.

Is the carpet in good shape and not bent or warped?

I'm not sure how a carpet feed works. I have a paddle. It looks like a half circle.

The coal should slide right down the grate, I'd shut down the fire and remove the ash and sandpaper the grate smooth.. You may have rough-rusty spots on the grate, Or if you used a coal mouse to light the fire, the remnants of the mouse may be stuck to the grate..

If you don't want to put out the fire, you could use a putty knife to remove the ash, and scrape the grate as smooth as you can with the putty knife.

Greg L

I don't know yet if it's bent or warped. Maybe there is something under it? How much clearance should there be under the carpet if any? It just doesn't seem to be pushing any ash into the pan. It sucks forking all this money out to save money on oil, then not being able to run the thing!

Can I remove the carpet easily?

( I suppose patience should be a BIG virtue when it comes to these coal stoves, eh?)

Yes. patience is needed, especially when learning the quirks of your new stove..

Take any tool and scrape the ash off the grate, right up to the edge of the fire,,, is the grate smooth?? I've had a grate bee too smooth and have the ash slide off the grate too fast and easy,, not the reverse..

Greg L

crochunisclan wrote:I don't know yet if it's bent or warped. Maybe there is something under it? How much clearance should there be under the carpet if any? It just doesn't seem to be pushing any ash into the pan. It sucks forking all this money out to save money on oil, then not being able to run the thing!

Can I remove the carpet easily?

Dave,

The carpet should sit right down flush on top of the grate.

Yes, you can remove the carpet. You have to undo do the bolt on the back. Remove that threaded rod. And then the carpet will slide right out of the back.

Mine was getting rusty. I sanded it and then sprayed some weldable primer on it.

Call me tomorrow if you want to discuss it further.

-----------------------------------------------------

Rick

I'll remove the carpet tomorrow and see what it looks like. I checked my grate and it seemed pretty smooth. I didn't feel any pitting or anything that would cause the ash not to move.

ALSO:

Is my Power vent supposed to be be hooked into and operated by my rheostat, or is it supposed to be plugged directly into the wall and on full force all the time? I know this is a CRAZY question, but there is a dispute between which is true,

Ok fellas, I'm all out of ideas on what is going on with my stove. The fire is still creeping towards the coal bin, higher than what the grate holes are. Maybe there is air getting into the stove from the wrong place? Is my carpet defective and not pushing the coal and ash properly? I reseated the grate properly, put a new gasket on it and I did a little work to the carpet. I really think this is beyond my scope of experience and I think I need to have someone look at it. I live in Tremont pa. Is there anyone in my area that works on coal stoves?

Any info would be appreciated

I don't know about the Alaska but on my Pioneer the power vent is supposed to be plugged directly into the wall,adjusted as low as will give an acceptable draft and the baro is adjusted where it is partially open still with acceptable draft. RichB

I don't have a power vent adjustment. My vent didn't come with any kind of adjustment. Was there supposed to be a rheostat or something that came with it?

Hi crochunisclan , what make is your stove?? [you can add this information to your signature]

If your stoker mechanism has a pusher bar or shovel, it should be moving back and forth about 1/2" or so.. If it isn't moving this much, the mechanism that moves it is either damaged, worn or very loose..

We need to know what Make and Model your stove is,, there are many differences in the stoker designs..

As for the Power vent,, first IS it a powervent?? A Powervent is a unit that is installed in the outside wall of the house... and yes, most Powevent kits come with a reostat and a barometric damper to adjust the draft that the Powervent is pulling on the stove..

Your stove could have a Direct Vent, this is a motor/fan mechanism that is attached directly to the backof your stove, and it pushes air/exhaust out a pipe to the outdoors... Even these units often have a reostat added by the owners..

But ALL Reostat equiped venters MUST use a Manometer to set and monitor the draft.. otherwise you may turn the draft [venter speed] down too low and not have enough draft in the stove and have CO leaks... So a Manometer is a must if you install a Reostat.

If you give us a bit more info or start another thread on your stove and problems we can help you better..

Greg L

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The stove is an Alaska Kast Console II. it is a power vent. One thing I've noticed it that when there is no coal in the hopper, the carpet does not sit flat on the grate.