Alaska Channing III Need Help Very Nervous

A Coal stoker furnace or stove controls most operations including automatically feeding the coal. They are quite similar to any conventional oil and gas units and easily operated for extended periods of time. They commonly use rice coal but may use larger sizes like buckwheat. They can be used as primary heat, supplementary heat or have a dual set up with your existing oil/gas furnace.
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jpen1
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Posts: 614
Joined: Sat. Nov. 04, 2006 4:46 pm
Stoker Coal Boiler: LL110
Coal Size/Type: Rice/ Buck
Stove/Furnace Make: Leisure Line
Stove/Furnace Model: 110 Boiler
Location: Bloomsburg, PA

Post Tue. Oct. 07, 2008 9:59 pm

Trader that gasket taht is in the back is called stongback gasket and I don't think I would burn the stove with out it . Some stove like a Keystoker or carpet feed Alaska you can get away with using the refractory cement but these paddle feed grates I have my doubts about. All channing III are padlle fed stoves . The Paddle is the half moon shaped pusher at the bottom of the hopper near the throat.


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traderfjp
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Posts: 1800
Joined: Wed. Apr. 19, 2006 10:32 pm
Stove/Furnace Make: Alaska
Stove/Furnace Model: Channing 3
Location: New York

Post Wed. Oct. 08, 2008 7:05 am

I'll order a new one but I had no choice. I couldn't get the grate to pop into place. I used 2000 degree cement from Leisure Line and then cemented the front of the grate where it meets the stove (replaces casket) and the top lip of the grate where the shoot meets the grate coming off the paddle area. I feel confident in the cement and the fire is where it should be. I used naval jelly and sanded everything before applying the cement so it would stick.
Disclaimer: I'm not an expert in any coal or plumbing related field. I only post my own experiences, research and common sense. If you choose to use any of the information in this post or any other post you do so at your own risk.

crochunisclan
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Posts: 62
Joined: Tue. Sep. 02, 2008 7:21 pm
Stove/Furnace Make: Alaska
Stove/Furnace Model: Kodiak II
Location: near Pottsville PA
Contact:

Post Wed. Oct. 08, 2008 6:30 pm

I replaced the gasket on mine. I do see another issue that I didn't notice before. It doesn't look like my carpet is pushing the ash off the pan, and the coal is just piling up behind the flame. Any ideas? This may be the cause of the coal catching fire for me.
How many body shop owners and Boeing engineers does it take to teach a Polack to use a coal stove?

One of each!

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gambler
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Joined: Mon. Jan. 29, 2007 12:02 pm
Stove/Furnace Make: Leisure Line
Stove/Furnace Model: Pioneer
Location: western Pa

Post Wed. Oct. 08, 2008 7:50 pm

Is the carpet in good shape and not bent or warped?
Take Care and God Bless
Rick

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traderfjp
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Posts: 1800
Joined: Wed. Apr. 19, 2006 10:32 pm
Stove/Furnace Make: Alaska
Stove/Furnace Model: Channing 3
Location: New York

Post Wed. Oct. 08, 2008 7:51 pm

I'm not sure how a carpet feed works. I have a paddle. It looks like a half circle.
Disclaimer: I'm not an expert in any coal or plumbing related field. I only post my own experiences, research and common sense. If you choose to use any of the information in this post or any other post you do so at your own risk.

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LsFarm
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Posts: 7385
Joined: Sun. Nov. 20, 2005 8:02 pm
Stoker Coal Boiler: Axeman Anderson 260
Hand Fed Coal Boiler: Self-built 'Big Bertha' SS Boiler
Baseburners & Antiques: Keystone 11, Art Garland
Location: Michigan

Post Wed. Oct. 08, 2008 7:54 pm

The coal should slide right down the grate, I'd shut down the fire and remove the ash and sandpaper the grate smooth.. You may have rough-rusty spots on the grate, Or if you used a coal mouse to light the fire, the remnants of the mouse may be stuck to the grate..

If you don't want to put out the fire, you could use a putty knife to remove the ash, and scrape the grate as smooth as you can with the putty knife.

Greg L
Burning Pea/Buckwheat through an antique stoker [semi retired SSboiler],
Running an Axeman-Anderson 260M boiler burning Pea, About 150-250#per day
Farming, Fixing, Fabricating and Flying: 'spare time' what's that?

crochunisclan
Member
Posts: 62
Joined: Tue. Sep. 02, 2008 7:21 pm
Stove/Furnace Make: Alaska
Stove/Furnace Model: Kodiak II
Location: near Pottsville PA
Contact:

Post Wed. Oct. 08, 2008 8:55 pm

I don't know yet if it's bent or warped. Maybe there is something under it? How much clearance should there be under the carpet if any? It just doesn't seem to be pushing any ash into the pan. It sucks forking all this money out to save money on oil, then not being able to run the thing! :mad:

Can I remove the carpet easily?

( I suppose patience should be a BIG virtue when it comes to these coal stoves, eh?)
How many body shop owners and Boeing engineers does it take to teach a Polack to use a coal stove?

One of each!

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LsFarm
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Posts: 7385
Joined: Sun. Nov. 20, 2005 8:02 pm
Stoker Coal Boiler: Axeman Anderson 260
Hand Fed Coal Boiler: Self-built 'Big Bertha' SS Boiler
Baseburners & Antiques: Keystone 11, Art Garland
Location: Michigan

Post Wed. Oct. 08, 2008 9:00 pm

Yes. patience is needed, especially when learning the quirks of your new stove..

Take any tool and scrape the ash off the grate, right up to the edge of the fire,,, is the grate smooth?? I've had a grate bee too smooth and have the ash slide off the grate too fast and easy,, not the reverse..

Greg L
Burning Pea/Buckwheat through an antique stoker [semi retired SSboiler],
Running an Axeman-Anderson 260M boiler burning Pea, About 150-250#per day
Farming, Fixing, Fabricating and Flying: 'spare time' what's that?


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Rick 386
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Posts: 2474
Joined: Mon. Jan. 28, 2008 4:26 pm
Stoker Coal Boiler: AA 260 heating both sides of twin farmhouse
Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: LL Hyfire II w/ coaltrol in garage
Coal Size/Type: Pea in AA 260, Rice in LL Hyfire II
Other Heating: Gas fired infared at work
Location: Royersford, Pa
Contact:

Post Wed. Oct. 08, 2008 11:30 pm

crochunisclan wrote:I don't know yet if it's bent or warped. Maybe there is something under it? How much clearance should there be under the carpet if any? It just doesn't seem to be pushing any ash into the pan. It sucks forking all this money out to save money on oil, then not being able to run the thing! :mad:

Can I remove the carpet easily?
Dave,

The carpet should sit right down flush on top of the grate.

Yes, you can remove the carpet. You have to undo do the bolt on the back. Remove that threaded rod. And then the carpet will slide right out of the back.

Mine was getting rusty. I sanded it and then sprayed some weldable primer on it.

Call me tomorrow if you want to discuss it further.

-----------------------------------------------------

Rick
Master of "Trial and Error."

crochunisclan
Member
Posts: 62
Joined: Tue. Sep. 02, 2008 7:21 pm
Stove/Furnace Make: Alaska
Stove/Furnace Model: Kodiak II
Location: near Pottsville PA
Contact:

Post Wed. Oct. 08, 2008 11:45 pm

I'll remove the carpet tomorrow and see what it looks like. I checked my grate and it seemed pretty smooth. I didn't feel any pitting or anything that would cause the ash not to move.

ALSO:

Is my Power vent supposed to be be hooked into and operated by my rheostat, or is it supposed to be plugged directly into the wall and on full force all the time? I know this is a CRAZY question, but there is a dispute between which is true,
How many body shop owners and Boeing engineers does it take to teach a Polack to use a coal stove?

One of each!

crochunisclan
Member
Posts: 62
Joined: Tue. Sep. 02, 2008 7:21 pm
Stove/Furnace Make: Alaska
Stove/Furnace Model: Kodiak II
Location: near Pottsville PA
Contact:

Post Sun. Oct. 19, 2008 12:35 am

Ok fellas, I'm all out of ideas on what is going on with my stove. The fire is still creeping towards the coal bin, higher than what the grate holes are. Maybe there is air getting into the stove from the wrong place? Is my carpet defective and not pushing the coal and ash properly? I reseated the grate properly, put a new gasket on it and I did a little work to the carpet. I really think this is beyond my scope of experience and I think I need to have someone look at it. I live in Tremont pa. Is there anyone in my area that works on coal stoves?

Any info would be appreciated
How many body shop owners and Boeing engineers does it take to teach a Polack to use a coal stove?

One of each!

bustedwing
Member
Posts: 140
Joined: Sun. May. 11, 2008 1:48 pm
Hot Air Coal Stoker Furnace: LL Pioneer
Coal Size/Type: Rice
Other Heating: Hot air oil
Stove/Furnace Make: LeisureLine
Stove/Furnace Model: Pioneer
Location: south central pa

Post Sun. Oct. 19, 2008 1:17 am

I don't know about the Alaska but on my Pioneer the power vent is supposed to be plugged directly into the wall,adjusted as low as will give an acceptable draft and the baro is adjusted where it is partially open still with acceptable draft. RichB

crochunisclan
Member
Posts: 62
Joined: Tue. Sep. 02, 2008 7:21 pm
Stove/Furnace Make: Alaska
Stove/Furnace Model: Kodiak II
Location: near Pottsville PA
Contact:

Post Sun. Oct. 19, 2008 9:11 am

I don't have a power vent adjustment. My vent didn't come with any kind of adjustment. Was there supposed to be a rheostat or something that came with it?
How many body shop owners and Boeing engineers does it take to teach a Polack to use a coal stove?

One of each!

User avatar
LsFarm
Member
Posts: 7385
Joined: Sun. Nov. 20, 2005 8:02 pm
Stoker Coal Boiler: Axeman Anderson 260
Hand Fed Coal Boiler: Self-built 'Big Bertha' SS Boiler
Baseburners & Antiques: Keystone 11, Art Garland
Location: Michigan

Post Sun. Oct. 19, 2008 10:34 am

Hi crochunisclan , what make is your stove?? [you can add this information to your signature]

If your stoker mechanism has a pusher bar or shovel, it should be moving back and forth about 1/2" or so.. If it isn't moving this much, the mechanism that moves it is either damaged, worn or very loose..

We need to know what Make and Model your stove is,, there are many differences in the stoker designs..

As for the Power vent,, first IS it a powervent?? A Powervent is a unit that is installed in the outside wall of the house... and yes, most Powevent kits come with a reostat and a barometric damper to adjust the draft that the Powervent is pulling on the stove..

Your stove could have a Direct Vent, this is a motor/fan mechanism that is attached directly to the backof your stove, and it pushes air/exhaust out a pipe to the outdoors... Even these units often have a reostat added by the owners..

But ALL Reostat equiped venters MUST use a Manometer to set and monitor the draft.. otherwise you may turn the draft [venter speed] down too low and not have enough draft in the stove and have CO leaks... So a Manometer is a must if you install a Reostat.

If you give us a bit more info or start another thread on your stove and problems we can help you better..

Greg L

.
Burning Pea/Buckwheat through an antique stoker [semi retired SSboiler],
Running an Axeman-Anderson 260M boiler burning Pea, About 150-250#per day
Farming, Fixing, Fabricating and Flying: 'spare time' what's that?

crochunisclan
Member
Posts: 62
Joined: Tue. Sep. 02, 2008 7:21 pm
Stove/Furnace Make: Alaska
Stove/Furnace Model: Kodiak II
Location: near Pottsville PA
Contact:

Post Sun. Oct. 19, 2008 1:00 pm

The stove is an Alaska Kast Console II. it is a power vent. One thing I've noticed it that when there is no coal in the hopper, the carpet does not sit flat on the grate.
How many body shop owners and Boeing engineers does it take to teach a Polack to use a coal stove?

One of each!


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