Harman Stoker - Leaking Window Seal

I just put my new stoker together and I thought that I'd give it its "maiden-voyage" to burn off the new paint while my windows are still open. I followed the directions for starting the stove and used some crumpled newpaper and kindling. As soon as I turned on the combustion blower (minimum air register setting), I started getting a lot of smoke blowing out between the top and bottom sections of the glass. Yes - the bolts for the glass were tight door was closed.

Since the kindling was already burning and I couldn't stop it easily, I kept turning on the blower until I got a good draft and all seemed better. However, I never let the coal light and let the flame go out to inspect the gaskets. It appears that Harman includes 2 side gaskets on the window, but none on the top or bottom (exactly where it was leaking).
I called my dealer and was told that this was normal and that Harman doesn't use those gaskets because of an "air wash" design which will keep the window cleaner. I was also told that I could install a top and bottom gasket for peace-of-mind (carbon monoxide concerns) but that it wasn't necessary once I had a good draft.

Has anyone else had this same experience? Also, with the barometric damper installed with minimal draft, should I be concerned about carbon monoxide leaking through the gap?

While I don't have your particular stove, I do have a Harman & it sounds like your window is fine. Many Harmans have an air wash system designed to allow secondary air to come in (above the fire) to help clean the glass. Once your chimney is drawing, air pressure in your stove is lower than the air pressure in your room, so you'll find that air is actually being sucked in around the window & not coming out.
I start my Hand fired TLC by sticking some burning paper up into the stove pipe (at the top of the stove) to get a good draw going before I ever try to light the stove. Try that & I'll bet your problem will be solved. (get a good draw going before you light the stove)
Stokers may operate differently but you need to get that draw going one way or another.

I think your right. Prior to lighting the stove on my second attempt, I created a better draft using lit newspaper by the furnace outlet. I then lit the kindling and no more smoke. The stove seems to work much better than I expected. I'm used to my old woodstove. This thing operates much more like my oil burner. I'll set the draft better once it gets a bit colder and I start using it full time. I'm also going to get some gel (or something similar) since the kindling took about an hour before I got the coal completely lit.

Hi jimker, look around on the site, there are several threads about starting a coal fire.. My favorite method is use a 2"-3" piece of road flare, just set it on the grate lit, and cover it with a hand full of coal, turn on the combustion blower, and in a few minutes ou will have the coal buring,, sometimes two piece of road flare will spread the coal fire faster..

Greg L.

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Jimker:

I have a Mag Stoker and yes this is normal. When I ordered new glass I was offered 2 feet of gasket as well. 1 foot for the each side of the glass. Once the stove is going, light a lighter along the edge of the window on the top or the bottom and watch it be drawn in. Whenever I light my Magnum, I get some smoke blowing into the room until the draft takes over.

Hope this helps

Mark

ditto here as well- the first time I lit up my mag, I had the blowers running, and the room instantly filled with fumes.

My current technique is, I close the restrictor plate completely before starting (I use matchlight charcoal, some use paper and kindling, some use coal mice, whatever works best for you. Haven't tried the flare yet, that might be cool). After lighting the bed of charcoal, I close everything up and wait for a minute or so, then start the blower and crack the restrictor open slightly. As soon as the pipe starts to heat and pull a draft, I will continue to tap open the plate a little at a time, but not so much that the chimney can't take it. (Following advice I got last year, I now have a manometer tied in to the stovepipe, and it's really easy to adjust airflow just by watching the gauge.)

After I switch the stoker on and get coal burning and the stove comes up to temperature (could be an hour or more till I decide everything's going), then I follow the manual for adjusting draft and blower settings.

It took me several tries to make it look like I know what I'm doing, but patience pays off. Good Luck!