Old Alaska Kodiak Stoker II Rebuild

A Coal stoker furnace or stove controls most operations including automatically feeding the coal. They are quite similar to any conventional oil and gas units and easily operated for extended periods of time. They commonly use rice coal but may use larger sizes like buckwheat. They can be used as primary heat, supplementary heat or have a dual set up with your existing oil/gas furnace.
arcticcatmatt
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Posts: 287
Joined: Wed. Sep. 10, 2008 10:22 pm
Stove/Furnace Make: Keystoker 90/120
Location: Montour Falls NY

Post Wed. Dec. 17, 2008 12:50 pm

Well I received the Dwyer 25 and got it installed. I adjusted my baro and it is currently sitting at .04. I do not have the stove on high, it is actually pretty low, maybe 30%. I will adjust the baro when I have the stove running on high. Good thing I got this setup, I had the draft to high. A lot of my heat was going up the chimney.
**Broken Image Link(s) Removed**

I hooked the low side into the stove pipe. Hope that was correct.

arcticcatmatt
Member
Posts: 287
Joined: Wed. Sep. 10, 2008 10:22 pm
Stove/Furnace Make: Keystoker 90/120
Location: Montour Falls NY

Post Sat. Jan. 03, 2009 3:14 pm

Well I just completed a cold air intake!
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The hole going in is 2.5". My 90 adapter is 4 inches. I got it in there, it presses tight since the exhaust is below it. I put duct tape around it to seal the connection. This is fine since the area is not hot.
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Ran the tubing
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I had an old junk ping pong table. I removed a window and cut a piece to size. It fit pretty tight but to seal it better I used duct tape. I cut in a 4" hole and put in the adapter I got at the store and hooked up the tube.
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Too bad the baro still sucks in warm air from the basement.
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Had it running an hour now. The tube is cold of course. The draft from my manometer went down .01-.02 with this mod. I adjusted my baro and raised it back up to the correct range.

What do ya'll think?

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Flyer5
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Stoker Coal Boiler: Leisure Line WL110
Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: Leisure Line Pioneer
Location: Montrose PA
Contact:

Post Sat. Jan. 03, 2009 3:23 pm

Not wanting to spoil your fun but is 4" large enough for the lenght of the run ?
http://www.leisurelinestove.com


You know when people say it was "better back in my day"?

They were right.


arcticcatmatt
Member
Posts: 287
Joined: Wed. Sep. 10, 2008 10:22 pm
Stove/Furnace Make: Keystoker 90/120
Location: Montour Falls NY

Post Sat. Jan. 03, 2009 3:43 pm

^ I choose 4 " because I had 30 feet of existing tube here to use. It doesn't seem to be alot of flow, the hole going into it is 2.5 inches anyways.

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CoalHeat
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Posts: 8327
Joined: Sat. Feb. 10, 2007 9:48 pm
Stoker Coal Boiler: 1959 EFM 350
Hand Fed Coal Stove: Harman Magnafire Mark I
Baseburners & Antiques: Sears Signal Oak 15 & Andes Kitchen Range
Coal Size/Type: Rice and Chestnut
Other Heating: Fisher Fireplace Insert
Location: Stillwater, New Jersey

Post Sat. Jan. 03, 2009 4:43 pm

I think the air flow for the combustion fan is 45 CFM, definitely not that much.

Matt, how did you supply the outside air to the fan?

It changed the draft, I'm interested in seeing if it affects heat output.

As far as the baro is concerned, you need it slurping warm inside air. Cold air going into the baro will cool off the chimney and cool chimneys draft less. Make-up air is not a problem when you live in a drafty old barn. New construction is a different story.
Heating a circa 1832 farmhouse with a Harman Magnafire Mark I & a 1959 EFM 350 (heating DHW).
100% Oil Free!
"It's what we learn after we think we know it all that counts."

arcticcatmatt
Member
Posts: 287
Joined: Wed. Sep. 10, 2008 10:22 pm
Stove/Furnace Make: Keystoker 90/120
Location: Montour Falls NY

Post Sun. Jan. 04, 2009 12:40 am

^ How did I supply the outside air to the fan? I am confused. The air now comes from outside, into the tube, and into my intake combustion fan :D

The temperature in my basement after 12 hrs seems to be identical.. but I have a crappy needle thermostat down there. I will recheck in the morning. My basement is not insulated, just block, so I expect this mod to only raise it a degree or two. But I guess every BTU counts!


stokerstove
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Posts: 135
Joined: Wed. Jan. 25, 2006 4:05 pm
Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: Alaska Kodiak Stokerstove 1
Location: NE PA

Post Sun. Jan. 04, 2009 12:49 pm

arcticcatmatt wrote:^ How did I supply the outside air to the fan? I am confused. The air now comes from outside, into the tube, and into my intake combustion fan :D

The temperature in my basement after 12 hrs seems to be identical.. but I have a crappy needle thermostat down there. I will recheck in the morning. My basement is not insulated, just block, so I expect this mod to only raise it a degree or two. But I guess every BTU counts!


fresh air.JPG


This is how I had to plumb the fresh air into my old Kodiak. 10' of 4" hose reduced to 2 1/2" at the stove. Not much room to play around there! The combustion fan has a removable plate at the inlet. I epoxied the 2 1/2" pipe to this plate, then screwed the plate/pipe back onto the fan. I purposely didn't make the setup air tight in case something blocks the inlet, which is a screened dryer vent.

You're losing tons of heat out that block wall. Before I insulated my poured concrete basement walls, the snow would melt back a couple of feet all around the basement. I made 2 x 4 stud walls and insulated w/ fiberglass - this made a big difference.

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CoalHeat
Site Moderator
Posts: 8327
Joined: Sat. Feb. 10, 2007 9:48 pm
Stoker Coal Boiler: 1959 EFM 350
Hand Fed Coal Stove: Harman Magnafire Mark I
Baseburners & Antiques: Sears Signal Oak 15 & Andes Kitchen Range
Coal Size/Type: Rice and Chestnut
Other Heating: Fisher Fireplace Insert
Location: Stillwater, New Jersey

Post Sun. Jan. 04, 2009 6:38 pm

^ How did I supply the outside air to the fan? I am confused. The air now comes from outside, into the tube, and into my intake combustion fan :D


I understand. You didn't use the separate fan, you just supplied outside air to the fan on the stoker. Got it.
Heating a circa 1832 farmhouse with a Harman Magnafire Mark I & a 1959 EFM 350 (heating DHW).
100% Oil Free!
"It's what we learn after we think we know it all that counts."

arcticcatmatt
Member
Posts: 287
Joined: Wed. Sep. 10, 2008 10:22 pm
Stove/Furnace Make: Keystoker 90/120
Location: Montour Falls NY

Post Tue. Jan. 06, 2009 12:38 pm

I have now ran this for a few days. It was 2 this morning. The air coming in was so cold I had a little frost on the outside of my intake tube 1 foot from coming in the window.

With this mod I have less ash. I don't know why but I have not changed the feed of the stove in weeks.. and now with this mod it seems to fill an ash pan in 12-18 hrs longer than it did before. Awesome.

stokerstove wrote:
arcticcatmatt wrote:^ How did I supply the outside air to the fan? I am confused. The air now comes from outside, into the tube, and into my intake combustion fan :D

The temperature in my basement after 12 hrs seems to be identical.. but I have a crappy needle thermostat down there. I will recheck in the morning. My basement is not insulated, just block, so I expect this mod to only raise it a degree or two. But I guess every BTU counts!


fresh air.JPG


This is how I had to plumb the fresh air into my old Kodiak. 10' of 4" hose reduced to 2 1/2" at the stove. Not much room to play around there! The combustion fan has a removable plate at the inlet. I epoxied the 2 1/2" pipe to this plate, then screwed the plate/pipe back onto the fan. I purposely didn't make the setup air tight in case something blocks the inlet, which is a screened dryer vent.

You're losing tons of heat out that block wall. Before I insulated my poured concrete basement walls, the snow would melt back a couple of feet all around the basement. I made 2 x 4 stud walls and insulated w/ fiberglass - this made a big difference.


wow I got less space than you haah

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