Old Alaska Kodiak Stoker II Rebuild
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- Joined: Wed. Sep. 10, 2008 10:22 pm
- Location: Montour Falls NY
Check out this auction for my same stove. Look at that contraption he rigged up! Built his own thermostat!
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- Posts: 320
- Joined: Wed. Sep. 10, 2008 10:22 pm
- Location: Montour Falls NY
First 24 hour burn is going on in the stove right now.
Man can this thing use up coal when on full blast! I had it on as low as it would go all night. Sadly, that hardly threw any heat at all. My basement was 60 this morning. So, I turned it up to 50%ish and gave the lobe 2 turns. It looked to kick 2x as much heat so I will have to keep playing with it. I am not sure what I am looking for (besides ash that crumbles).
I am having a big halloween party tonight so I wanted to heat up the basement so I fired the stove up in conjunction with my wood stove.
I am at work.. so I hope its OK at home!
Man can this thing use up coal when on full blast! I had it on as low as it would go all night. Sadly, that hardly threw any heat at all. My basement was 60 this morning. So, I turned it up to 50%ish and gave the lobe 2 turns. It looked to kick 2x as much heat so I will have to keep playing with it. I am not sure what I am looking for (besides ash that crumbles).
I am having a big halloween party tonight so I wanted to heat up the basement so I fired the stove up in conjunction with my wood stove.
I am at work.. so I hope its OK at home!
- CoalHeat
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- Posts: 8862
- Joined: Sat. Feb. 10, 2007 9:48 pm
- Location: Stillwater, New Jersey
- Stoker Coal Boiler: 1959 EFM 350
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: Harman Magnafire Mark I
- Baseburners & Antiques: Sears Signal Oak 15 & Andes Kitchen Range
- Coal Size/Type: Rice and Chestnut
- Other Heating: Fisher Fireplace Insert
One turn of the lobe makes a big difference in the feed rate. My stoker goes from low turns to full fire with four turns. It will crank out the heat on full burn, eats up the coal as well. Low burn I can fill the hopper once a day, full burn twice a day.
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- Joined: Wed. Sep. 10, 2008 10:22 pm
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^ You ain't kidding. And the hopper holds about 100 lbs.
I am begining to wonder how good this triburner design is. I will keep fine tuning the lobe while the dial is at 50% I suppose. My ash all crumbles when sqeezed so far so I I guess its fully burnt.
I am begining to wonder how good this triburner design is. I will keep fine tuning the lobe while the dial is at 50% I suppose. My ash all crumbles when sqeezed so far so I I guess its fully burnt.
- CoalHeat
- Member
- Posts: 8862
- Joined: Sat. Feb. 10, 2007 9:48 pm
- Location: Stillwater, New Jersey
- Stoker Coal Boiler: 1959 EFM 350
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: Harman Magnafire Mark I
- Baseburners & Antiques: Sears Signal Oak 15 & Andes Kitchen Range
- Coal Size/Type: Rice and Chestnut
- Other Heating: Fisher Fireplace Insert
If you get unburnt coal in the ashpan I would look at the coal. Sift it out and put it back on the grate. If it doesn't burn then it's the coal. The Lenig's I have now has a lot of "bone" in it, ends up in the ashpan, won't burn. The actual coal burns completely and hot.
I actually think the Tri-Burner is a good design, except for the combustion fan, as you know I have a separate fan that runs full speed all the time.
I actually think the Tri-Burner is a good design, except for the combustion fan, as you know I have a separate fan that runs full speed all the time.
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- Joined: Wed. Sep. 10, 2008 10:22 pm
- Location: Montour Falls NY
^ Yes. I havn't had the chance to set up that mod yet, so I am trying to keep the dial at 50% and just adjust the lobe, that way I am getting high combustion fan flow but regulating the size of the fire with the lobe.
I should have my first ash pan full tonight. I will check it out! THanks!
I should have my first ash pan full tonight. I will check it out! THanks!
- CoalHeat
- Member
- Posts: 8862
- Joined: Sat. Feb. 10, 2007 9:48 pm
- Location: Stillwater, New Jersey
- Stoker Coal Boiler: 1959 EFM 350
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: Harman Magnafire Mark I
- Baseburners & Antiques: Sears Signal Oak 15 & Andes Kitchen Range
- Coal Size/Type: Rice and Chestnut
- Other Heating: Fisher Fireplace Insert
Run the motor at full speed and use the lobe to adjust the burn. I have a rheostat on the stoker motor and it's just about useless, it doesn't change the feed rate that much. I think the idea behind it is you can change the burn rate by lowering or raising the motor speed and combustion air since it's the same motor, but incomplete burning of the coal is the result.
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- Joined: Wed. Sep. 10, 2008 10:22 pm
- Location: Montour Falls NY
^ I will toy with that.
I took a picture of my first ash bin is this white ash or red ash coal?
I took a picture of my first ash bin is this white ash or red ash coal?
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- Member
- Posts: 2705
- Joined: Fri. Jan. 26, 2007 9:55 pm
- Location: Birdsboro PA.
- Stoker Coal Boiler: EFM 350
- Hot Air Coal Stoker Furnace: reading allegheny stoker
- Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: alaska kodiak stoker 1986. 1987 triburner, 1987 crane diamond
- Coal Size/Type: rice
looks good
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Figured I would update my thread since I have been doing things to the stove and posting in other peoples threads about it.
I have finally turned the stove on and it has been running for 4 days on low. It seems to make my floors warm but barely. I wanted to move more heat up stairs so I read what others have done.
I got a small duct and parts from home depot. I am going to hook a hinge to this soon to pivot it out of the way if needed but for now this works. I bent two pieces of steel. Mounted one to the duct and one to the stove. I have it slid right in front of the fan right now, but if I move it back to the right side of the stove more (tabs line up perfect then), only 1/2 of the air is going up and 1/2 the air is going in the basement.
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I also got 2 male pieces as suggested. Man that made the hose go right on !
The hose then goes up
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I then installed a register duct 12x4 into my floor. I had to move a shower drain 1 inch so I just used that metal ribbon stuff to hold it out of the way. I also had to jigsaw my register opening a touch to get the duct in. I used 2 screws on each end to hold it in place (my floors are double thick plywood). The register still fit on. The register has a metal top but plastic flow control blades. I think they will be ok.
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Right now, I have the stove on low. Well, its on high but I control the burn with the lobe. Running it on high ensures full burn on the old triburner design.
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After letting it run for about 15 mins I took this picture
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Not to shabby! Wonder what it will be if I ran the stove on high.
I also have this running sometimes. It pushes air up the side of the stove to get a little more heat off the stove. Its a project in the making.
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I could seal up the intake on the stove a little more and push more air, I will think about that.
I hope to soon possibly work on the intake of my stove. Many have added an additional fan blowing air in the stove to increase the triburner flow. Got the parts started, just need to decide if its needed. I am getting a full burn out of the coal so I am unsure still.
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Cold air return is being thought about but don't know yet. I have a register in my bedroom and that is cold. There is a little air being sucked out of the bedroom and down into the basement, all on its own.
I also worked on a manometer. Turns out the one I had given to me does not have a tight enough scale. I am getting the correct one soon (running low on money, just got laid off for 3 weeks. Buy american vehicles and help me out) but for now this is what I got.
Hope you enjoyed and this helps someone. Thanks for the idea everyone! I love this forum! I will continue to add my modifications to this thread.
I have finally turned the stove on and it has been running for 4 days on low. It seems to make my floors warm but barely. I wanted to move more heat up stairs so I read what others have done.
I got a small duct and parts from home depot. I am going to hook a hinge to this soon to pivot it out of the way if needed but for now this works. I bent two pieces of steel. Mounted one to the duct and one to the stove. I have it slid right in front of the fan right now, but if I move it back to the right side of the stove more (tabs line up perfect then), only 1/2 of the air is going up and 1/2 the air is going in the basement.
**Broken Image Link(s) Removed**
I also got 2 male pieces as suggested. Man that made the hose go right on !
The hose then goes up
**Broken Image Link(s) Removed**
I then installed a register duct 12x4 into my floor. I had to move a shower drain 1 inch so I just used that metal ribbon stuff to hold it out of the way. I also had to jigsaw my register opening a touch to get the duct in. I used 2 screws on each end to hold it in place (my floors are double thick plywood). The register still fit on. The register has a metal top but plastic flow control blades. I think they will be ok.
**Broken Image Link(s) Removed**
Right now, I have the stove on low. Well, its on high but I control the burn with the lobe. Running it on high ensures full burn on the old triburner design.
**Broken Image Link(s) Removed**
After letting it run for about 15 mins I took this picture
**Broken Image Link(s) Removed**
Not to shabby! Wonder what it will be if I ran the stove on high.
I also have this running sometimes. It pushes air up the side of the stove to get a little more heat off the stove. Its a project in the making.
**Broken Image Link(s) Removed**
I could seal up the intake on the stove a little more and push more air, I will think about that.
I hope to soon possibly work on the intake of my stove. Many have added an additional fan blowing air in the stove to increase the triburner flow. Got the parts started, just need to decide if its needed. I am getting a full burn out of the coal so I am unsure still.
**Broken Image Link(s) Removed**
Cold air return is being thought about but don't know yet. I have a register in my bedroom and that is cold. There is a little air being sucked out of the bedroom and down into the basement, all on its own.
I also worked on a manometer. Turns out the one I had given to me does not have a tight enough scale. I am getting the correct one soon (running low on money, just got laid off for 3 weeks. Buy american vehicles and help me out) but for now this is what I got.
Hope you enjoyed and this helps someone. Thanks for the idea everyone! I love this forum! I will continue to add my modifications to this thread.
- LsFarm
- Member
- Posts: 7383
- Joined: Sun. Nov. 20, 2005 8:02 pm
- Location: Michigan
- Stoker Coal Boiler: Axeman Anderson 260
- Hand Fed Coal Boiler: Self-built 'Big Bertha' SS Boiler
- Baseburners & Antiques: Keystone 11, Art Garland
You mentioned a cold air register in a far bedroom that is letting cold air into the basement. What you really don't want to have is the entire basement to be a cold air plenum. So if your aim is to keep the upstairs warm and not the basement,, create a duct from that far bedroom to the inlet area of the distribution blower of the stove.. the temp in the basement should drop and the upstairs temp rise.
Greg L
Greg L
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- Member
- Posts: 2705
- Joined: Fri. Jan. 26, 2007 9:55 pm
- Location: Birdsboro PA.
- Stoker Coal Boiler: EFM 350
- Hot Air Coal Stoker Furnace: reading allegheny stoker
- Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: alaska kodiak stoker 1986. 1987 triburner, 1987 crane diamond
- Coal Size/Type: rice
cats love to supervise!
i have 6 of them that constantly check my work
i have 6 of them that constantly check my work
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- Posts: 320
- Joined: Wed. Sep. 10, 2008 10:22 pm
- Location: Montour Falls NY
^ When I was working on the register hole he kept sticking his head down in it from upstairs and looking around at me. It was cute, but little did he know he was about to get fed into the hopper.
LSFARM - My aim is to just move more air upstairs. My basement was 20-30 degrees warmer than my upstairs. This morning, they were the same. Awesome.
LSFARM - My aim is to just move more air upstairs. My basement was 20-30 degrees warmer than my upstairs. This morning, they were the same. Awesome.