Koker issues
- nepacoal
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- Location: Coal Country
- Stoker Coal Boiler: Keystoker KAA-4 / "Kelly" and an EFM 520 at my in-laws
- Hand Fed Coal Boiler: Harman SF-260 - retired
- Coal Size/Type: Buck
Here's a link to a website showing how to remove and work on the feeder system...
https://www.heetinc.com/videos#keystokerrepair
https://www.heetinc.com/videos#keystokerrepair
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If behind the stove I can see the head of the adjustment screw on the right but the one on the left is not there. You can see the threads inside trekking me that it has possibly broke??
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- nepacoal
- Member
- Posts: 1701
- Joined: Wed. Nov. 21, 2012 7:49 am
- Location: Coal Country
- Stoker Coal Boiler: Keystoker KAA-4 / "Kelly" and an EFM 520 at my in-laws
- Hand Fed Coal Boiler: Harman SF-260 - retired
- Coal Size/Type: Buck
Looks like your screws are still there, but you have a lot of corrosion around the pusher bar. It wouldn't hurt to take it apart to scrape and sand all that rust, dirt and corrosion off.
Has it really stopped binding up and moving like it was in that video. If so you might have had a blockage that cleared after you tightened the mounting screws... How is your fire looking? Are the flames reaching the inside roof of the stove while it's running?
Has it really stopped binding up and moving like it was in that video. If so you might have had a blockage that cleared after you tightened the mounting screws... How is your fire looking? Are the flames reaching the inside roof of the stove while it's running?
- nepacoal
- Member
- Posts: 1701
- Joined: Wed. Nov. 21, 2012 7:49 am
- Location: Coal Country
- Stoker Coal Boiler: Keystoker KAA-4 / "Kelly" and an EFM 520 at my in-laws
- Hand Fed Coal Boiler: Harman SF-260 - retired
- Coal Size/Type: Buck
FYI, there are 4 screws on each side... you can only see the first and possibly the second when looking in there. From what I can see, the left screw is there, but it's worn down a little bit. Can you grab the middle of the pusher bar and move it in and out easily touching the cam when you push it in and pull it out?gennylight01 wrote: ↑Thu. Feb. 02, 2023 4:08 pmIf behind the stove I can see the head of the adjustment screw on the right but the one on the left is not there. You can see the threads inside trekking me that it has possibly broke??
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It appears to be ok but the fire is not even from left to right, like maybe it is binding and pushing at an angle I'm thinking if I shut it down and clean up the feeder and put it back in that could be the problem. As stated earlier if I snug the screws up the motor won't turn so they are loose now. It is working better but I don't think it's 100%
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I can move the feed rate screw back and forth but when the can is touching it obviously I can't. I'm hesitant to pull that out without having the parts of I need new screws.
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Also, it wasn't bound up in video but if I tighten the mounting screws it will stop the motor.
- nepacoal
- Member
- Posts: 1701
- Joined: Wed. Nov. 21, 2012 7:49 am
- Location: Coal Country
- Stoker Coal Boiler: Keystoker KAA-4 / "Kelly" and an EFM 520 at my in-laws
- Hand Fed Coal Boiler: Harman SF-260 - retired
- Coal Size/Type: Buck
If it's pushing at an angle, you probably are missing some screws . You never want the fire burning back towards the hopper. It usually indicates that there is an air leak caused by missing or cracked stove cement that is used to seal the grates to the frame. There's a video on that website showing the stove cement locations too. Did you try grabbing the center of the pusher bar and moving it? It should not move left to right hardly at all but it should move in and out relatively easy stopping as it hits the cam moving in and out.gennylight01 wrote: ↑Thu. Feb. 02, 2023 4:38 pmIt appears to be ok but the fire is not even from left to right, like maybe it is binding and pushing at an angle I'm thinking if I shut it down and clean up the feeder and put it back in that could be the problem. As stated earlier if I snug the screws up the motor won't turn so they are loose now. It is working better but I don't think it's 100%
- nepacoal
- Member
- Posts: 1701
- Joined: Wed. Nov. 21, 2012 7:49 am
- Location: Coal Country
- Stoker Coal Boiler: Keystoker KAA-4 / "Kelly" and an EFM 520 at my in-laws
- Hand Fed Coal Boiler: Harman SF-260 - retired
- Coal Size/Type: Buck
Those mounting screws should be tight, so you definitely have an issue, probably one of the 3 mentioned above but you won't know for sure until you get it apart and cleaned up. Is it your only heat source? Taking it apart right before the coldest nights of the year is a little scary.gennylight01 wrote: ↑Thu. Feb. 02, 2023 4:44 pmAlso, it wasn't bound up in video but if I tighten the mounting screws it will stop the motor.
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I'm going to wait until cold spell is over and fix it. It is working better and house is back up to temp. I talked to dealer and he said he would come and fix it and he carries all the parts with him so I'll go that route as he said the gaskets could be bad and there a pita of you don't know what you're doing
- nepacoal
- Member
- Posts: 1701
- Joined: Wed. Nov. 21, 2012 7:49 am
- Location: Coal Country
- Stoker Coal Boiler: Keystoker KAA-4 / "Kelly" and an EFM 520 at my in-laws
- Hand Fed Coal Boiler: Harman SF-260 - retired
- Coal Size/Type: Buck
You could check for a blockage easy enough by simply emptying out the hopper and taking a look... Otherwise, your plan sounds good.
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No blockage in hopper. I cleaned it out entirely. I am leaning towards wear and fatigue. I turned up feed rate a little and will get it fixed next week. Thanks for all the help.
- nepacoal
- Member
- Posts: 1701
- Joined: Wed. Nov. 21, 2012 7:49 am
- Location: Coal Country
- Stoker Coal Boiler: Keystoker KAA-4 / "Kelly" and an EFM 520 at my in-laws
- Hand Fed Coal Boiler: Harman SF-260 - retired
- Coal Size/Type: Buck
We try to help when we can! Good luck with it and report back with your success...
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He did say he cleaned out grates earlier today. Sounds like multiple issues.nepacoal wrote: ↑Thu. Feb. 02, 2023 4:46 pmIf it's pushing at an angle, you probably are missing some screws . You never want the fire burning back towards the hopper. It usually indicates that there is an air leak caused by missing or cracked stove cement that is used to seal the grates to the frame. There's a video on that website showing the stove cement locations too. Did you try grabbing the center of the pusher bar and moving it? It should not move left to right hardly at all but it should move in and out relatively easy stopping as it hits the cam moving in and out.