Hello future friends! I've been running an Alaska Channing III for a few years now. I grew up on a Van Wert boiler (which my parents want to get rid of and I hope to buy it off them).
Until that day... my question is on the Channing III. We have a 1800 square foot home, two stories. It heats most of the house great, except for the back bedrooms. When I look at the fire I have on my Channing it appears to stay closer to the paddle and when the feed motor is set to 5 (or greater, 6 or 7), I still have about 3-4" of ashes before the end of the tray. I also recently swapped out the paddle feed motor due to a seeming gearbox failure.
Do I need to just tune the paddle timer or am I missing something simple?? The grate looks clean when I started it and when I took the combustion blower off there was no obstruction.
Alaska Channing III Heat Output
- CoalKracker
- Member
- Posts: 115
- Joined: Sat. Oct. 03, 2015 10:56 am
- Location: Northeast Pa
- Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: Alaska Channing 3
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: Warm Morning 460
- Baseburners & Antiques: Pittston Stove Co. Magnet No.2
- Coal Size/Type: Anthracite rice (reading coal co)
Whst are you using to control the feed? The rheostat knob control or the digital box?
- CoalKracker
- Member
- Posts: 115
- Joined: Sat. Oct. 03, 2015 10:56 am
- Location: Northeast Pa
- Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: Alaska Channing 3
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: Warm Morning 460
- Baseburners & Antiques: Pittston Stove Co. Magnet No.2
- Coal Size/Type: Anthracite rice (reading coal co)
I misread your post. Looks like you are using the knob control. Have you tried maxing it out to see what happens? If you turn it up all the way and see the same results then the connections in the rheostat may be dirty. Theres a product called
De-oxit (not sure if thats spelled correctly) that will clean the contact points inside.
De-oxit (not sure if thats spelled correctly) that will clean the contact points inside.