I understand this. We have been through this. I don't have a way myself to measure this yet. It is something I need to do but dont have the means to do it yet.
Keystoker 90 newbie
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- CoalisCoolxWarm
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- Location: Western PA
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- Coal Size/Type: Anthracite Buckwheat
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Here are pics of my install (with the old stove pipe). I have one in both places. I could use either and leave it hooked up. Both places allow me to confirm the draft is the same in both places. Over fire is the most important, which is why I leave it there, but stove pipe between baro and furnace is the next best place. Do what works for yoububbathehut1994 wrote: ↑Fri. Feb. 05, 2021 1:05 pmIf I permanently install a manometer, can I use it on the chimney before the baro? I dont really like feel like I'd enjoy the look of my unit looking like it is hooked up to a breathing tube
Manometer Install
In all seriousness, a properly adjusted stove vs one running less efficiently can make up the price of a manometer pretty quickly. Plus the safety peace of mind.
Something to remember. The lower the draft, the less heat goes up the chimney as waste. But there are limits that effect safety and efficiency. That's where the specs in the manual comes in.
Similar to having a car properly tuned. It might still run, but for maximum output and smoothest operation (and fuel savings), you really want to have it dialed in.
There are lots of nice-to-haves, and some folks here have quite elaborate setups with supply and return temps, cameras, etc. But testing and setting with a manometer is a must. Borrow one if you have to. Having a permanent one is not a big dollar amount, but only you can decide if you can or even want to spend that money. We're tight with my health issues, and I have one.
When I bring a friend with a hand fired wood stove down and tell him to touch my stove pipe (after the baro) and then hit it with the IR thermometer, he's amazed at how low the temp is. Less heat up the chimney. Then he looks at the fire blasting. It's resulted in more than one convert. LOL.
Can you wait for a permanent installed manometer? Of course. Getting one now allows you to jump ahead. But we all have to move at the pace and price that suits us individually. If you do one later, many of us will still be here
Once you get the new push bar installed, you might be satisfied with your burn and coal usage. Good. There will be time to dial it in later, too.
- CoalisCoolxWarm
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Looks like you're too far away for me to unhook and bring my manometer over to let you get setup....Know any furnace guys? They would have one. I'm sure Keystoker would have done that if you were there and asked.bubbathehut1994 wrote: ↑Fri. Feb. 05, 2021 1:32 pmI understand this. We have been through this. I don't have a way myself to measure this yet. It is something I need to do but dont have the means to do it yet.
- nepacoal
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No worries... I would trust Keystoker's opinion with regard to it being safely setup. My father in law has been running his efm 520 non-stop since 1964. He's never once used a manometer. I set it with my manometer last year and about a week later he made changes to feed and air. I gave up on fine tuning his.bubbathehut1994 wrote: ↑Fri. Feb. 05, 2021 1:32 pmI understand this. We have been through this. I don't have a way myself to measure this yet. It is something I need to do but dont have the means to do it yet.
If you do decide to get a manometer, you may not need to drill a hole in the door. You can drill into the side of the stove itself. You just need a small hole to stick your manometer probe into somewhere inside the fire box. You can tap it and plug it up, or put a piece of high temp tape over it if temporary or use a bulkhead connector if permanent...
- CoalisCoolxWarm
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- Coal Size/Type: Anthracite Buckwheat
- Other Heating: Oil Boiler
- oliver power
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correctbubbathehut1994 wrote: ↑Fri. Feb. 05, 2021 12:35 pmUpdate
Keystoker came to my house around lunch time and got me set up. They said my draft appears to be fine and not to touch it. The pusher bar had to be replaced. I run full buckwheat now but they reccomend that I switch to rice or at least mix it. I have mo issues with this but now when I mix it. I should only really have to adjust my feed rate then right? Dont touch the combustion shutter or baro right?