Reading Lehigh stove. NEED HELP
-
- New Member
- Posts: 5
- Joined: Mon. Nov. 02, 2020 9:22 pm
- Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: Reading Lehigh stove
- Coal Size/Type: Rice coal
I purchased this reading Lehigh stove and I'm trying to get the unit setup. The guy I bought it off of said it came with a power vent. After doing some research iv learned that it is a direct vent and it needs to be setup a little different than a power vent unit. The stove doesn't have a thermostat wired in, it does have a wmo-1 switched mounted to it. The direct vent is mounted on the top of the stove. They guy i got it from had double wall pipe coming from the direct vent. When we took the pipe apart so I was able to transport it home all of the seals on the pipe were dry rotted and fell apart. He told me of I still wanted to use that pipe I could try sealing it with high temp rtv. My question is with this direct vent do I need a double wall pipe? Do I need to put sealant on the joints since the old seals were bad? Should I just get new pipe? Attached are pictures of the stove with the direct vent and the pipe that runs to the outside of the house. ( these are the previous owners pictures, they way he had it running). Any input would be appreciated. Keep in mind this is my first stove so I'm very new to this and I couldn't find much online about direct vent stoves. Everyone just talks about the power vent.
Attachments
-
- Site Moderator
- Posts: 11417
- Joined: Wed. Nov. 05, 2008 5:11 pm
- Location: Kent CT
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: V ermont Castings 2310, Franco Belge 262
- Baseburners & Antiques: Glenwood Modern Oak 114
- Coal Size/Type: nut and pea
The thing to keep in mind is that any pipe after the direct vent is under positive pressure, so should be sealed. high temp. silicone should be OK if the pipe is sound.
-
- New Member
- Posts: 5
- Joined: Mon. Nov. 02, 2020 9:22 pm
- Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: Reading Lehigh stove
- Coal Size/Type: Rice coal
I hooked the stove up the way the guy I got it from had it hooked up. Now I've been trying to figure it out. I checked to make sure the wmo-1 switch was working properly by shutting the direct vent off and making sure that after a few minutes it would kick the feeder and blower off (which it did). Then I wanted to see what would happen if I wasn't home and my feeder or blower motor went on me while the direct vent was still on. I noticed after turning the feed and blower off but leaving the direct vent on that the fire continued to stay lit and was actually getting hotter. I thought once the feed was off along with the blower that the fire would burn itself out.
-
- Site Moderator
- Posts: 11417
- Joined: Wed. Nov. 05, 2008 5:11 pm
- Location: Kent CT
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: V ermont Castings 2310, Franco Belge 262
- Baseburners & Antiques: Glenwood Modern Oak 114
- Coal Size/Type: nut and pea
The fire will burn itself out. In this case the draft was strong enough to keep the fire going, but it will go out without the feed.
- McGiever
- Member
- Posts: 10130
- Joined: Sun. May. 02, 2010 11:26 pm
- Location: Junction of PA-OH-WV
- Stoker Coal Boiler: AXEMAN-ANDERSON 130 "1959"
- Hand Fed Coal Boiler: BUCKET A DAY water heater
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: Warm Morning 414A
- Coal Size/Type: PEA,NUT,STOVE /ANTHRACITE
- Other Heating: Ground Source Heat Pump and some Solar
Where/when there is still a added supply of air still being present whatever fuel remains will continue to burn until either the air or fuel is depleted..
It's a good idea to know where the air continues to come from...wouldn't want it coming thru the hopper...
It's a good idea to know your actual draft reading with manometer...excess draft will bring in excess air...
It's a good idea to know where the air continues to come from...wouldn't want it coming thru the hopper...
It's a good idea to know your actual draft reading with manometer...excess draft will bring in excess air...