another barometric damper question
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I have 5 year old keystoker koker with direct vent. It has run great with no issue until recently. Previously it would probably trip once a season on windy nights or whatever the cause. This year it has tripped several times most at worst times possible when its real cold or im working and wife is home alone with kids. Twice my CO2 alarm has gone off. It trips due to the combustion air sensor and I usually reset and am good to go for a bit. I have cleaned my furnace and vent this year way more then any other year. I concluded I was having a draft issue and just got the dwyer manometer. I am unable to get a negative pressure in my furnace without holding damper closed. Then best I get is -0.02. My t handle is all the way up if i go any lower draft goes away quick. I have tried all position on the weight for the barometric damper and it seems to open too early as soon as pressure starts to go negative. Any ideas. Do I need a new direct vent fan or new damper or does the damper need a good cleaning. For now I have the barometric damper being jacked closed until I find a better solution.
- coaledsweat
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When did you last clean the stovepipe?
- McGiever
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Time for some good repairs, might be past the point for prevenitive maintainence.
5 seasons is a lot, and band-aids will not take things back in time.
There are replacement motors for these, and that is the major wear item.
5 seasons is a lot, and band-aids will not take things back in time.
There are replacement motors for these, and that is the major wear item.
- coaledsweat
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Have you cleaned the blades on the blower wheel?
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My koker definitely gets better draft than what you are showing. -.02 usually is when I get ready to clean mine. I normally run -.04 to -.03. My bet is either your direct vent isn’t working right or you have a blockage. You could also try to oil the direct vent motor. There are two ports. I use 3 in 1 oil. I oil mine a few times a season. Let us know how you make out.
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Every year i completely remove the vent pipe and clean out. This year I have cleaned the vent with a rotating chimney sweep several times way more than normal. I cleaned most recently 2 weeks ago. Around the same time I opened the fan and cleaned the housing and blades and got a lot out of there. I was hoping that would solve it. Where are these oil ports? It sounds like you guys are leaning toward if the vent is clean then the direct vent fan and motor are on the way out? Whats the normal life span for these.
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Not sure on the lifespan. Mine is four years old and I’ve only had it for two. The ports are on the top, at least the way mine is mounted. One is at the back end of the motor and the other closer to the impeller end. I can send a pic later today when I get home.
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A picture would be greatly appreciated. I see openings but nothing I would think as an oil port.
- nepacoal
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This video will show what typical oil ports look like...
On many motors they are just small half moon holes at both edges of the motor. Old school motors had little yellow dust plugs but newer motors seem to just have the half moon holes. There will not be any holes if it is a permanently sealed motor. Do not over oil. Just a few drops per year. He shows a PV motor at 3:35.
On many motors they are just small half moon holes at both edges of the motor. Old school motors had little yellow dust plugs but newer motors seem to just have the half moon holes. There will not be any holes if it is a permanently sealed motor. Do not over oil. Just a few drops per year. He shows a PV motor at 3:35.
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Last edited by nepacoal on Tue. Feb. 19, 2019 2:27 pm, edited 3 times in total.
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ok I think those are what I thought were oil ports but wasnt sure and didnt want to put oil where it didnt belong.
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I have a power vent on the oil burner that is 30 years old.
Recommendation is to oil the motor (Fasco) every six months in oil ports just about impossible to reach or see. I oil about once a year heavily. I would suggest buying electric motor oil in a plumbing supply where Hercules or other brand comes with a foot long thin plastic tube that can be cut shorter or left long to snake into impossible places. Snake the tube into the hole and give a good squeeze.
Recommendation is to oil the motor (Fasco) every six months in oil ports just about impossible to reach or see. I oil about once a year heavily. I would suggest buying electric motor oil in a plumbing supply where Hercules or other brand comes with a foot long thin plastic tube that can be cut shorter or left long to snake into impossible places. Snake the tube into the hole and give a good squeeze.
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I found the oil points. they had a little oil plug. My wife had a horrible day with furnace tripping and failing to restart it. She wanted nothing to do with it 5 years ago but this year been forced to start it a few times due to the trips and wanting heat. Its easier to restart it since it takes 5 mins then the 10 minutes to switch back to my oil setup. Luckily tonight I thing I got it solved. I looked at the setup and saw the direct vent sucks on the furnace. In between the direct vent fan and the furnace is the barometric damper. The damper would open as if there a negative pressure but the furnace would never see this pressure. I realized there must be a restriction between the furnace and the damper. I popped the stack off the top of the furnace and looked down. I saw a lot of ash at the top with about 50 percent reduction in diameter. I cleaned this out and put it back together. Just restarted the furnace and the draft is back!!! Now i have damper opening fully and am getting -0.02. I will have to adjust everything when I get to a full burn. Not sure why this got clogged this year like I said originally I performed way more thorough and frequent cleanings this year and never had issues before. Thanks for the help everyone. If you are unable to get enough draft I recommend shutting down and doing a cleaning like you do at the end of the season
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Thanks for the pictures. I couldnt find any so it will be a great resource to have on this site.