Barometric damper adjustment

rberq
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Post By: rberq » Sun. Feb. 10, 2019 9:16 pm

Squid3083 wrote:
Sun. Feb. 10, 2019 4:23 pm
Nobody answered when you're supposed to clean the ashes and if stopping the stove completely.
I see no reason to stop the stove to brush the ashes off the damper plate. I generally just hold it open by hand for a few seconds, use a toothbrush to brush the ashes off, and chimney draft pulls most of them in and right up the chimney. Try not to drop the toothbrush down the stovepipe. :o

As to WHEN you should clean the plate, whenever you feel like it. I hardly ever do it. In the pictures, yours doesn’t look bad. Compare the ash weight to the weight of that big counter-balance disk, and the ashes are probably insignificant.

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Post By: Squid3083 » Sun. Feb. 10, 2019 9:19 pm

absolutely !!!

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Post By: Squid3083 » Sun. Feb. 10, 2019 9:26 pm

coalcherry wrote:
Sun. Feb. 10, 2019 8:45 pm
Question. I noticed in one of the pics on this subject of barometric dampers, the adjustment knob was in the vertical position even though the baro was mounted in a horizontal config. To explain better the knob was in the "v" position instead of the "h" position. This is on a field controls type rc baro.Any help?
my barometric damper is an oil damper, the weight is inside big flat and round.

so -.02 means nothing for me on this damper.
Attachments
damper2.jpg
mon baro 4.jpg
my baro1.jpg

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Squid3083
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Post By: Squid3083 » Sun. Feb. 10, 2019 9:56 pm

coaledsweat wrote:
Sun. Feb. 10, 2019 8:57 pm
I think the image is displayed but not installed. I doubt the photographer thought about adjusting the curve of the baro by placing the weight properly. I hope this helps.
yes these 2 dampers are for images only not what I have installed.
i have the oil one with weight inside

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Post By: Squid3083 » Sun. Feb. 10, 2019 10:07 pm

oppenned damper.jpg
Just checked for draft. in front of stove and next to damper, and both suck air like a vacuum lol flame from paper was getting sucked by door or damper.
and put co2 detector 10 feet away and even passed in front of stove and zero !!!

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Post By: franco b » Sun. Feb. 10, 2019 10:27 pm

Remember, the one that counts is from the fire box. Check with combustion fan running.

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Post By: Squid3083 » Sun. Feb. 10, 2019 10:40 pm

franco b wrote:
Sun. Feb. 10, 2019 10:27 pm
Remember, the one that counts is from the fire box. Check with combustion fan running.
i did

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Post By: Eab91276 » Mon. Feb. 11, 2019 5:56 am

Squid3083 wrote:
Sun. Feb. 10, 2019 4:23 pm

Nobody answered when you're supposed to clean the ashes and if stopping the stove completely.

When I got the stove, i cleaned couple of things , but not the flue of the stove, and did not expect to put a hose to clean the inside lol
You don’t really need to stop the stove to clean the baro. Then again, I don’t clean the baro until I do a total clean. If you are asking about a total clean of the stove, I do it about once a month, depending on how much I burn. Again, I watch the manometer more than anything. When that starts creeping closer to zero and I have ash buildup in the combustion chamber, I know it is time. For my koker, Keystoker recommends -.04 to -.02 draft. Check the recommendations for your unit. Once you do a cleaning and know your draft numbers you can set your baro. It is a learning curve. This is season two for me and I’m finally getting the hang of things!

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Post By: coalkirk » Mon. Feb. 11, 2019 7:55 am

When you say you have the "oil one" do you mean the one designated as a type M?

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Post By: coaledsweat » Mon. Feb. 11, 2019 10:13 am

coalkirk wrote:
Mon. Feb. 11, 2019 7:55 am
When you say you have the "oil one" do you mean the one designated as a type M?
He posted a pic of his. It isn't a Field Controls device.

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Post By: Squid3083 » Tue. Feb. 12, 2019 12:23 am

yes this type with the weight inside.
The salesman said it was an oil barometric damper.
Attachments
mon baro 4.jpg
baro1.jpg

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Post By: franco b » Tue. Feb. 12, 2019 10:26 am

Squid3083 wrote:
Tue. Feb. 12, 2019 12:23 am
yes this type with the weight inside.
The salesman said it was an oil barometric damper.
Can be used with any fuel. Differences are with sensitivity and that in turn is dependent on the type of pivot quality or design. Yours is of the simplest type that has the friction of turning relatively high.

The Fields type M has V notch type pivots and the type RC has pivots rolling on a flat surface which is the most sensitive of the bunch but requires more clearance around the flap.

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Post By: Squid3083 » Fri. Feb. 15, 2019 4:50 pm

I have removed the 2 nuts and weight as it was not moving or opening at all, as you can see in the picture it is opened about 3/4 of an inch and swaying a bit sometimes
Attachments
baro1.jpg

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Post By: coalkirk » Sat. Feb. 16, 2019 7:32 am

So I’m reading this on my phone so I didn’t reread the whole thread but it’s perfectly fine if the baro never opens. It’s only there to limit draft, period. If you dont have a monometer you shooting inthe dark.

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Post By: coaledsweat » Sat. Feb. 16, 2019 8:31 am

You really need to put it back to the manufactured condition and stop trying to make it move. Get a manometer or draft gauge and then you'll know what is really going on. You are "playing with fire" by dismanteling it.

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