Barometric damper adjustment

 
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Squid3083
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Post by Squid3083 » Sun. Feb. 10, 2019 6:55 am

I have a Keystoker 90k wtih an oil barometric damper, (when I installed, this is only what they had)

This one has a big weel for weight inside the chimney not outside.
I have it installed on top directly of the stove on a T.
The adjustment is on minimum, as the weight is the closest to the padle itself so minimum weight.

I never see it move. I saw afterwards that I could have bought the normal barometric damper with outside weight to set at .02 like I see in all posts.

When I was using my wood stove on the same chimney, I would see draft like crazy when I would barely open the door to induce a big draft to start my fire.
i checked to see the resistance needed to mode the paddle of the damper, and very litle force is needed to make it sway.

Chimney is about 18' outside and maybe 6' inside.

My question is : with this kind of barometric damper, om my keystoker stove, should I see any or a lot of movement, or should I remove the weight??

I did not do the manometer test as I have none right now,

i have a nice flame, and heats the house properly, and will use about 40 lbs of rice in a day when -15c

Attachments

damper1.jpg
.JPG | 70.3KB | damper1.jpg
damper2.jpg
.JPG | 16.9KB | damper2.jpg


 
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coaledsweat
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Post by coaledsweat » Sun. Feb. 10, 2019 7:39 am

The baro won't move until the draft reaches it's setpoint. If you are at -.02 and it is set for -.06 it isn't going to move. You don't have a lot of chimney so that may be the reason. The only way to know what's going on is to read the draft with a manometer or draft gauge.

 
Eab91276
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Post by Eab91276 » Sun. Feb. 10, 2019 8:26 am

Hey Sqiud, I have a keystoker koker which is similar to what you are running. You need that manometer reading. I watch that more than anything. Mine is a permanent one mounted on the wall. I follow that to determine if I need to clean the fly ash and if things are burning well. My baro may not move for days depending on the weather and how high I’m burning. Double check that the flap swings freely. Sometimes mine gets hung up after I do a thorough cleaning with the shop vac. Once you get that manometer then you can play with the baro setting. Let us know how you make out.

 
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Squid3083
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Post by Squid3083 » Sun. Feb. 10, 2019 3:10 pm

All coal is burning well and not in exceeding amount, cold day -19C about 40 lbs.
As you can see in the next pics i have some ash buildup that needs to be cleaned.

Brand new install from 30 January just wondering when it has to be cleaned.
And when you clean do you ABSOLUTELY need to turn off the stove ??

As for adjustment I am at the minimum, next step is to remove the weight. Otherwise no idea what to do.
So I am wondering if there is even further adjustment on the coal barometric damper? does it offset into the negative and is oppened a bit without any draft for example?? becaus very very litle force is needed to sway the damper.

Attachments

mon baro 4.jpg
.JPG | 106.4KB | mon baro 4.jpg
mon baro2.jpg
.JPG | 75.9KB | mon baro2.jpg
mon baro3.jpg
.JPG | 95.4KB | mon baro3.jpg
mt ref1.ods
.ODS | 12.5KB | mt ref1.ods
my baro1.jpg
.JPG | 81.4KB | my baro1.jpg

 
franco b
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Post by franco b » Sun. Feb. 10, 2019 3:22 pm

It should open only when there is excessive draft. You have it set for minimum draft.

Strike a match and hold it to the barely open a crack upper door. The door that you can see the fire from. The flame should suck in with the combustion fan running. If it does you are good to go.

 
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Squid3083
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Post by Squid3083 » Sun. Feb. 10, 2019 4:23 pm

As you said minimum draft but when I check it never opens, never sways.

I removed the weight and put it straight, and now the damper is opened about 1/2 inch. and it is level so I know it is the draft that is pulling it. Even if I push it back and close it, goes back to the same angle, about 1/2 inch opened.

Did not have time to check for draft when I open the door yet.

Nobody answered when you're supposed to clean the ashes and if stopping the stove completely.

When I got the stove, i cleaned couple of things , but not the flue of the stove, and did not expect to put a hose to clean the inside lol

 
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2001Sierra
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Post by 2001Sierra » Sun. Feb. 10, 2019 4:33 pm

Not to be obnoxious or rude, can you indicate your temps in Farenheit? I am sure we can answer questions quicker.


 
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Post by Squid3083 » Sun. Feb. 10, 2019 4:41 pm

lol no problem

All coal is burning well and not in exceeding amount, cold day -2.2F (-19C) about 40 lbs.

Have the thermometer that you usually put on the chimney on the side of the stove and reads 400F
Have to check it when it's working hard.

 
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Post by 2001Sierra » Sun. Feb. 10, 2019 4:48 pm

Well done! Now I find your question much easier to answer. If it was -2 my baro would be bouncing with no wind at all. With that said I would not be concerned with yours not moving much "opening" until you can measure your draft. It is safer to have it not open, than open too early.

 
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Post by corey » Sun. Feb. 10, 2019 5:14 pm

I strongly recommend a manometer to check your draft.

 
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Post by coaledsweat » Sun. Feb. 10, 2019 6:16 pm

Squid3083 wrote:
Sun. Feb. 10, 2019 4:23 pm

I removed the weight and put it straight, and now the damper is opened about 1/2 inch. and it is level so I know it is the draft that is pulling it. Even if I push it back and close it, goes back to the same angle, about 1/2 inch opened.
You don't want the baro open at all until you know what the draft is. It's function is to limit total draft and you are no where near that limit.

 
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Post by franco b » Sun. Feb. 10, 2019 7:09 pm

Be sure to have a carbon monoxide detector because you are flirting with some entering the house , by your cutting the draft without knowing what it is over the fire.

 
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Post by WNY » Sun. Feb. 10, 2019 7:18 pm

WIthout a draft gauge, you cannot set it correctly for draft, each stove/chimney is unique, and without a draft gauge to set it properly, it all depends on how your chimney is drafting, how the stove is running (temperature), how cold it is outside, etc...it will vary with conditions. some may open more than others or not at all to maintain the proper draft on the stove.

 
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Post by coalcherry » Sun. Feb. 10, 2019 8:45 pm

Question. I noticed in one of the pics on this subject of barometric dampers, the adjustment knob was in the vertical position even though the baro was mounted in a horizontal config. To explain better the knob was in the "v" position instead of the "h" position. This is on a field controls type rc baro.Any help?

 
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Post by coaledsweat » Sun. Feb. 10, 2019 8:57 pm

coalcherry wrote:
Sun. Feb. 10, 2019 8:45 pm
Question. I noticed in one of the pics on this subject of barometric dampers, the adjustment knob was in the vertical position even though the baro was mounted in a horizontal config. To explain better the knob was in the "v" position instead of the "h" position. This is on a field controls type rc baro.Any help?
I think the image is displayed but not installed. I doubt the photographer thought about adjusting the curve of the baro by placing the weight properly. I hope this helps.


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