Unfinished basement below grade
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- Location: Schuylkill County PA
- Stoker Coal Boiler: EFM DF 520
- Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: Reading RFSD-04
- Coal Size/Type: Rice anthacite
- Other Heating: EFM oil/coal furnace DF520
So I'm still trying to cut costs by running my little reading stove from the basement. My efm coal boiler works great and we use it when it's below 30 deg. If it's above 30, we can use half the coal or less with the stove. Am I losing heat to the concrete walls in our unfinished basement? I'm reading conflicting answers. Some ppl say since the entire basement is below grade, the earth is great insulation therefore no need to insulate. Others say, yes, insulate anyway. And just some info, my stove runs around 400-450 degrees and the basement is warm but I can't get it above 74 deg down there. I think insulation would help. Opinions please. And thanks!!!
- McGiever
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Over time insulation can be added in stages to avoid the big hit of expense up front in one year.
To do this start high at sill plate and add a band of insulation 4 foot wide around the upper perimeter of the outside walls.
Next season then simply add another 4 foot band again directly below the first row and then you will have a 8 foot total all around...easy peasey!
Don't forget the rim joist spaces.
To do this start high at sill plate and add a band of insulation 4 foot wide around the upper perimeter of the outside walls.
Next season then simply add another 4 foot band again directly below the first row and then you will have a 8 foot total all around...easy peasey!
Don't forget the rim joist spaces.
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- Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: Reading RFSD-04
- Coal Size/Type: Rice anthacite
- Other Heating: EFM oil/coal furnace DF520
Mcgeiver, I have a framed wall partitioning my basement in 2 sections. One side has the boiler and the other side with the stairway to my first floor has the stove. So the section I would insulate wouldn't be so bad. But I like the idea, was gonna use that 4x8 foam board, doing it in 2 stages is a f'ing great id3a. And yes the rim joists would be insulated and I have about 20,000 cans of that spray foam, love that stuff. So... U think insulation would help? I sure think it would.
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Yes insulate. The floor and walls are giant heatsinks. Personally i would start with the walls. It will be the fastest and offer the quickest return
Insulation makes a difference in my basement. A couple years ago i had to rehab one below grade basement wall which involved digging out down to the footer. After reparging & waterproofing, i used 1" foam board on the outside before backfilling. The block on the insulated wall measures 6* warmer than the adjacent un-insulated block wall. I will definitely add the insulation outside again when the time comes to rehab the other basement wall.
In the mean time I have foam board on the inside of that un-insulated wall which also helps. I think this year I will also add the Rob R window insulation kit consisting of 1/2" foam board! Who needs daylight down there anyway, the LED lighting is sufficient!!??
In the mean time I have foam board on the inside of that un-insulated wall which also helps. I think this year I will also add the Rob R window insulation kit consisting of 1/2" foam board! Who needs daylight down there anyway, the LED lighting is sufficient!!??
- McGiever
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- Coal Size/Type: PEA,NUT,STOVE /ANTHRACITE
- Other Heating: Ground Source Heat Pump and some Solar
Since hot air rises, you get the most bang for the buck working from high to low...higher temperature differential is where most heat leaves...floor air can be around 60* and concrete floor on earth about 53*...not your best spent money to worry there...go for the higher air nearer to ceiling at 95* up against concrete above or below grade that can go below 0*.Pa-kid wrote: ↑Wed. Dec. 12, 2018 11:36 amMcgeiver, I have a framed wall partitioning my basement in 2 sections. One side has the boiler and the other side with the stairway to my first floor has the stove. So the section I would insulate wouldn't be so bad. But I like the idea, was gonna use that 4x8 foam board, doing it in 2 stages is a f'ing great id3a. And yes the rim joists would be insulated and I have about 20,000 cans of that spray foam, love that stuff. So... U think insulation would help? I sure think it would.
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- Posts: 15
- Joined: Sat. Dec. 01, 2018 9:30 am
- Location: Schuylkill County PA
- Stoker Coal Boiler: EFM DF 520
- Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: Reading RFSD-04
- Coal Size/Type: Rice anthacite
- Other Heating: EFM oil/coal furnace DF520
Awesome, that answers my question. Thanks guys. Rim joists, then work my way down, and I will be using the Rob r window kit as well
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If you start with rim joists I would recommend roxul. Easy to work with and it's not itchy. Easier than using foam board between joists.
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But foam board and a can of expanding foam...
Will cut the infiltration rate...
Even better are the DIY two part spray foam kits...
A little pricy but will seal any air gaps to the outside...
1-2 inch of spray foam backed by the Rock Wool...
Toasty home...
Will cut the infiltration rate...
Even better are the DIY two part spray foam kits...
A little pricy but will seal any air gaps to the outside...
1-2 inch of spray foam backed by the Rock Wool...
Toasty home...
- CoalisCoolxWarm
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1. Air infiltration FIRST. Even with thick fiberglass insulation, air moving through it can reduce its effectiveness to 20% or so. Trapped AIR is the primary insulator in this product.
2. Foamboard is GREAT, but watch where you trap moisture and how to attach any wall coverings, finishes, shelves, etc.
3. The ONLY spray foam I use now is Great Stuff PRO. Gun is about $50 and you can lay a thin bead like very thin caulking or a 2" wide stream that expands beyond that. It has less expansion pressure (basically NO damage to window frames, etc), after skinning over you can push it into spots or mold to shape. Operates to lower temp ranges. Can stop and save the can for 90 days or more (I have).
Petroleum Jelly on the nozzle to prevent sticking of foam to it.
Uninsulated basement? Here's an excerpt from an article from a few years back.
2. Foamboard is GREAT, but watch where you trap moisture and how to attach any wall coverings, finishes, shelves, etc.
3. The ONLY spray foam I use now is Great Stuff PRO. Gun is about $50 and you can lay a thin bead like very thin caulking or a 2" wide stream that expands beyond that. It has less expansion pressure (basically NO damage to window frames, etc), after skinning over you can push it into spots or mold to shape. Operates to lower temp ranges. Can stop and save the can for 90 days or more (I have).
Petroleum Jelly on the nozzle to prevent sticking of foam to it.
Uninsulated basement? Here's an excerpt from an article from a few years back.