Barometric Damper and direct vent
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Hello I am very new to this whole coal world. I have had wood burners for long time and now replaced with Koker 160. I installed it and adjusted all and now I am reading that Not to use a barometric damper inside? is this true? I have no direct vent on the exhaust pipe. just the B damper that came with it it. Should I think about installing one? Also is it suppose to taste funny in the house like you can taste the coal? Draft is good on my meter so maybe I missing something?
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NO sir just dumping it to the hopper. It seems like when it goes to slow burn when its not calling for heat is when you can really tell. It came with a SWG power vent that I have not connected yet. Still trying to figure out where to put it. It exhausts right to my chimney w 4 in pipe. Also how to connect it. Is it suppose to run 24/7 or only when the system calls for heat?
- Lightning
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Oh, so you can smell the exhaust gases? If so, that could be a very dangerous situation. If you do not have functioning Carbon Monoxide alarms, you need to shut it down until you get some and get the coal exhaust problem fixed.
- StokerDon
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Pnz,
If you are smelling or tasting sulfur (coal) you have a serious problem. If you have carbon monoxide detectors, check there readings. If you don't have carbon monoxide detector (at least 2) shut the stove down now.
You sound kind of all over the place on this thing. You say you have no direct vent but you have a power vent? Do you have it connected to a chimney???
A chimney is way better if you have one. either way, you need a manometer to measure draft. If you have too much draft, heat goes up the chimney. If you have too little draft dangerous CO leaks into you house, very bad.
-Don
If you are smelling or tasting sulfur (coal) you have a serious problem. If you have carbon monoxide detectors, check there readings. If you don't have carbon monoxide detector (at least 2) shut the stove down now.
You sound kind of all over the place on this thing. You say you have no direct vent but you have a power vent? Do you have it connected to a chimney???
A chimney is way better if you have one. either way, you need a manometer to measure draft. If you have too much draft, heat goes up the chimney. If you have too little draft dangerous CO leaks into you house, very bad.
-Don
- nepacoal
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4" pipe is very small without the power vent. At full burn, I'm not sure 4" could keep up using a chimney . I believe they recommended 6" pipe when connecting to a chimney.
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I apologize guys. I have a 6 in pipe to the chimney. I have a power vent but one of the locals told me the draft was sufficient. Manometer reads @3. I do have co detectors installed. Chimney is about 7 feet away from stove.
- nepacoal
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Was this the first time you used the chimney? If so, did you inspect the chimney for obstructions before starting the fire?
- nepacoal
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No need for a power vent if you have a working chimney with a good draft with the 6" pipe.
- nepacoal
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Draft over fire should be between -.02 and -.03 after a 30 to 35 minute runtime. Does your combustion fan have a round sheet metal plate covering half the air inlet. Is the stoker sealed to the stove with a gasket or stove cement? Pictures of your system would help.
Last edited by nepacoal on Fri. Nov. 09, 2018 7:17 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Exhaust pipe is sealed with duct foil tape. Combustion fan sealed with factory gasket. I’m sorry for being so confusing. Kinda got myself worried now. Think lll just shut it down when I get home until I get some pics posted.