DVC500 issue
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- Member
- Posts: 8601
- Joined: Sat. May. 24, 2008 4:26 pm
- Location: Chester, NY
- Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: LL AnthraKing 180K, Pocono110K,KStokr 90K, DVC
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: Invader 2
- Baseburners & Antiques: Wings Best, Glenwood #8(x2) Herald 116x
- Coal Size/Type: Rice,
- Other Heating: Heating Oil CH, Toyotomi OM 22
If it looks sound then take the old stove out and new the new one in. After all the chimney is already there. Your service costs must already be through the roof. Then put the old one up for sale and be done with it. Winter is coming and it's time to move on.
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- New Member
- Posts: 13
- Joined: Thu. Oct. 25, 2018 6:43 am
- Coal Size/Type: Rice
- Other Heating: Oil
*** UPDATE
First I need to credit 2 individuals and for future reference to everyone here
Kevin from K C Stoves and Marcus from Kegerreis Stoves - both have worked on the DVC500 and very knowledgeable
Both related can have issues that will not set off an error code
Both related a draft issue and although all motors are working try changing the draft exhaust motor as it weakens and can not turn 3000 rpm when it heats up
Did so including the double paddle fan blade and immediately solved 90% of the issue.
Carbon monoxide detector going off intermittently with low amount
I carefully checked the hopper lid gasket and observed it was not covering the rear of the lid (like that since new) but I decided to change it and position it better to make a complete cover of the entire hole when closed (not much room to spare)
Stove running for 4 days with 0 ppm on the detector
So in summary I think I had 2 issues with the major one being the draft motor
THANK YOU TO ALL FOR THE HELP
Hope this helps someone in the future
First I need to credit 2 individuals and for future reference to everyone here
Kevin from K C Stoves and Marcus from Kegerreis Stoves - both have worked on the DVC500 and very knowledgeable
Both related can have issues that will not set off an error code
Both related a draft issue and although all motors are working try changing the draft exhaust motor as it weakens and can not turn 3000 rpm when it heats up
Did so including the double paddle fan blade and immediately solved 90% of the issue.
Carbon monoxide detector going off intermittently with low amount
I carefully checked the hopper lid gasket and observed it was not covering the rear of the lid (like that since new) but I decided to change it and position it better to make a complete cover of the entire hole when closed (not much room to spare)
Stove running for 4 days with 0 ppm on the detector
So in summary I think I had 2 issues with the major one being the draft motor
THANK YOU TO ALL FOR THE HELP
Hope this helps someone in the future
- McGiever
- Member
- Posts: 10130
- Joined: Sun. May. 02, 2010 11:26 pm
- Location: Junction of PA-OH-WV
- Stoker Coal Boiler: AXEMAN-ANDERSON 130 "1959"
- Hand Fed Coal Boiler: BUCKET A DAY water heater
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: Warm Morning 414A
- Coal Size/Type: PEA,NUT,STOVE /ANTHRACITE
- Other Heating: Ground Source Heat Pump and some Solar
Congrats!
And a big Thank You for coming back to have the story come full circle, and with a Happy ending.!
And a big Thank You for coming back to have the story come full circle, and with a Happy ending.!
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- Member
- Posts: 8601
- Joined: Sat. May. 24, 2008 4:26 pm
- Location: Chester, NY
- Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: LL AnthraKing 180K, Pocono110K,KStokr 90K, DVC
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: Invader 2
- Baseburners & Antiques: Wings Best, Glenwood #8(x2) Herald 116x
- Coal Size/Type: Rice,
- Other Heating: Heating Oil CH, Toyotomi OM 22
Came to help you but you helped me. What happened yesterday after 10 years of trouble free winter running ... a reading of 33 ppm of CO for a while ... do not like that one. Luckily, I found the motor for $53 on clear out and a double paddle fan ... both now on their way. Jan 15th take down is scheduled for other reasons and I will fit them then. Ya just never know around here.
- CoalBin
- Member
- Posts: 137
- Joined: Thu. Sep. 14, 2006 5:18 pm
- Location: Long Island, NY
- Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: DVC-500
- Other Heating: Wood Stove & Oil
Disregard rest of post - I just saw you solved your problem - somehow my display did not show your solution - congrats I'll leave the rest of my post in hopes it helps someone else solve a problem - as one long term DVC owner to another - every bit of knowledge helps.
If its still not working, check that your exhaust is not getting into your outside air intake - either through the fresh air intake or somewhere along the exhaust tube all the way down to the stove. If your exhaust is holed somewhere, it would choke the fire. Also if exhaust gets drawn into the combustion air, the combustion blower housing has a small hole which would leak the dirty air into your living area, setting off the CO detector. I'm running a basement install as well. The fiberglass gasket on my lower exhaust elbow went bad a few years ago - I now seal the plate with hi temp silicone. (copper stuff) (if gasket is bad, exhaust will get into combustion air as well...) PS - you did install the exhaust elbow plate in the right direction - with the ramp heading up the pipe - not blocking it?...
This is my 13th season with the DVC. Awesome stove, just feed it coal and change its diaper & it will keep you warm all winter.
If its still not working, check that your exhaust is not getting into your outside air intake - either through the fresh air intake or somewhere along the exhaust tube all the way down to the stove. If your exhaust is holed somewhere, it would choke the fire. Also if exhaust gets drawn into the combustion air, the combustion blower housing has a small hole which would leak the dirty air into your living area, setting off the CO detector. I'm running a basement install as well. The fiberglass gasket on my lower exhaust elbow went bad a few years ago - I now seal the plate with hi temp silicone. (copper stuff) (if gasket is bad, exhaust will get into combustion air as well...) PS - you did install the exhaust elbow plate in the right direction - with the ramp heading up the pipe - not blocking it?...
This is my 13th season with the DVC. Awesome stove, just feed it coal and change its diaper & it will keep you warm all winter.
Last edited by CoalBin on Tue. Dec. 18, 2018 11:25 pm, edited 3 times in total.
- CoalBin
- Member
- Posts: 137
- Joined: Thu. Sep. 14, 2006 5:18 pm
- Location: Long Island, NY
- Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: DVC-500
- Other Heating: Wood Stove & Oil
How much work was it to replace the exhaust fan blade? I have a new one sitting here as well - but could not get the old one off. Mine is starting to look a bit, lets say eroded. Probably will run into the same problem you did if I don't get it replaced soon. May try and split it off the shaft with a dremel.
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- New Member
- Posts: 13
- Joined: Thu. Oct. 25, 2018 6:43 am
- Coal Size/Type: Rice
- Other Heating: Oil
Hello,
I gave it 1 try and could not get the screw to turn. Stripped allen head. Not worth $15 headache. I removed 3 rear nuts which allowed me to angle the motor and I cut the shaft with a sawzall since I was replacing motor anyway.
FYI
3 of 4 motors relatively cheap aftermarket. Combustion blower not sold separately by Harman. $400 for entire unit with housing.
Jakel produced motor, since purchased by Fasco. Fasco says motor not produced since 2008?
I have all original part numbers available for anyone interested (just not at my fingertips).
I discovered a replacement manufacted by Fasco for Lennox motors. It has a secondary fan on the opposite side to cool the motor like the ORIGINAL exhast motor (deleted on replacement motor). It comes with plastic housing to fit another stove. Just remove and install on old housing. $75. It obviously sticks out a few inches further and you may not be able to fully close right side rear cover door but that's not an issue for me.
If anyone wants the exact numbers i can post.
Good Luck
Please follow up after replacement of exhaust motor to see if it resolves your issue
Thank you to everyone who contributed to this posting.
I gave it 1 try and could not get the screw to turn. Stripped allen head. Not worth $15 headache. I removed 3 rear nuts which allowed me to angle the motor and I cut the shaft with a sawzall since I was replacing motor anyway.
FYI
3 of 4 motors relatively cheap aftermarket. Combustion blower not sold separately by Harman. $400 for entire unit with housing.
Jakel produced motor, since purchased by Fasco. Fasco says motor not produced since 2008?
I have all original part numbers available for anyone interested (just not at my fingertips).
I discovered a replacement manufacted by Fasco for Lennox motors. It has a secondary fan on the opposite side to cool the motor like the ORIGINAL exhast motor (deleted on replacement motor). It comes with plastic housing to fit another stove. Just remove and install on old housing. $75. It obviously sticks out a few inches further and you may not be able to fully close right side rear cover door but that's not an issue for me.
If anyone wants the exact numbers i can post.
Good Luck
Please follow up after replacement of exhaust motor to see if it resolves your issue
Thank you to everyone who contributed to this posting.
-
- New Member
- Posts: 13
- Joined: Thu. Oct. 25, 2018 6:43 am
- Coal Size/Type: Rice
- Other Heating: Oil
Hello,
Wanted to update all regarding my DVC500.
After replacing 2 motors worked OK for the last month or so. Still had CO issues 2 or 3 times. Then stove would not accommodate for low temperatures-ran at a steady speed. Then stove would not come off idle (7000 btu).
Was observing a lot of smoke/gas build up in the hopper.
Tested the draft pressure with a manometer and observed running at -4, fluctuating between -5 and -2 when opening door.
This told me all gaskets working well.
I also observed 3 red LED lights at maximum brightness and the exhaust draft motor dim. This can be ok at times but not always. This motor runs at .9 amps and when tested it was running at .5 or about half speed. I recently installed this motor so I wanted to make sure it was working at 3000 RPM as required. I disconnected the leads and attached them directly to an extension cord. Motor did run at a faster rpm and when tested was at .9 amps. This tells me the motor was good and was not getting a signal from the board to run at 3000 rpm. I allowed the motor to run at full speed for a few minutes and observed the smoke in the hopper had dissipated.
I earlier tested the negative draft and found it to be OK.
So, since all motors were good it now has to be either the circuit board or the pressure switch.
I took the plunge and purchased the "replacement" pressure switch from my Harmon dealer for $500.
The original switch ran on 120 volts. This switch runs on 5 volts and is powered by the TCP- temperature control probe. I have a YELLOW wire, newer stoves have a RED wire. You must remove a few wires but instructions were detailed and easy.
PROBLEM SOLVED
Stove is working correctly, NO ODOR in home. Fire box adjusts to heat and its back to normal.
Hope this helps someone.
If anyone is still interested in this thread please reply.
Thank You
Wanted to update all regarding my DVC500.
After replacing 2 motors worked OK for the last month or so. Still had CO issues 2 or 3 times. Then stove would not accommodate for low temperatures-ran at a steady speed. Then stove would not come off idle (7000 btu).
Was observing a lot of smoke/gas build up in the hopper.
Tested the draft pressure with a manometer and observed running at -4, fluctuating between -5 and -2 when opening door.
This told me all gaskets working well.
I also observed 3 red LED lights at maximum brightness and the exhaust draft motor dim. This can be ok at times but not always. This motor runs at .9 amps and when tested it was running at .5 or about half speed. I recently installed this motor so I wanted to make sure it was working at 3000 RPM as required. I disconnected the leads and attached them directly to an extension cord. Motor did run at a faster rpm and when tested was at .9 amps. This tells me the motor was good and was not getting a signal from the board to run at 3000 rpm. I allowed the motor to run at full speed for a few minutes and observed the smoke in the hopper had dissipated.
I earlier tested the negative draft and found it to be OK.
So, since all motors were good it now has to be either the circuit board or the pressure switch.
I took the plunge and purchased the "replacement" pressure switch from my Harmon dealer for $500.
The original switch ran on 120 volts. This switch runs on 5 volts and is powered by the TCP- temperature control probe. I have a YELLOW wire, newer stoves have a RED wire. You must remove a few wires but instructions were detailed and easy.
PROBLEM SOLVED
Stove is working correctly, NO ODOR in home. Fire box adjusts to heat and its back to normal.
Hope this helps someone.
If anyone is still interested in this thread please reply.
Thank You
- McGiever
- Member
- Posts: 10130
- Joined: Sun. May. 02, 2010 11:26 pm
- Location: Junction of PA-OH-WV
- Stoker Coal Boiler: AXEMAN-ANDERSON 130 "1959"
- Hand Fed Coal Boiler: BUCKET A DAY water heater
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: Warm Morning 414A
- Coal Size/Type: PEA,NUT,STOVE /ANTHRACITE
- Other Heating: Ground Source Heat Pump and some Solar
Thanks for coming back and sharing your findings that may be valuable help to others.
Thanks for such a comprehensive post! This is my second winter with my dvc500 and I have been real happy with it but fear the day when an issue crops up. My feed mechanism is a little noisier than I would like but other than that all is well.