Determine my furnace options

 
Frank F
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Post by Frank F » Fri. Apr. 13, 2018 7:11 pm

Hello all,
First thank you in advance for any help or guidance.
I am interested in purchasing the Liesurline AK220 air furnace. What are your thoughts on that? Good furnace? At my old house I had good luck with their stoves.
The closest I can put my chimney to my original propane furnace is 25 ish ft. Is that to far to supply the existing ductwork? I can move the furnace closer but im assuming that the furnace probably need to be close to were chimney exits basement.
If I go with 220 has anyone had luck with DHW hookups and what would be a good system to purchase?
Last one for now. Would building a room out of 2*6 walls and plywood be sufficient for coal storage? What size would hold 6 tons.

Thank you again.


 
coalnewbie
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Post by coalnewbie » Fri. Apr. 13, 2018 8:05 pm

I run a AK180 ... very very close. Yes 25' is fine and that is exactly how I installed it. Great unit. We are here for you and I will send pics but I am busy this weekend. Welcome to the board. If you want more info I will give you whatever you need next week. A separate DHW install is not my bag. However, if you really want DHW as well then perhaps a AA220 and a heat exchanger in the ductwork as you would get 2 for 1. Plenty of people here know hydronics better than I so let us know what you think and the right people will be here for you.

 
Frank F
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Post by Frank F » Sat. Apr. 14, 2018 7:00 am

coalnewbie wrote:
Fri. Apr. 13, 2018 8:05 pm
I run a AK180 ... very very close. Yes 25' is fine and that is exactly how I installed it. Great unit. We are here for you and I will send pics but I am busy this weekend. Welcome to the board. If you want more info I will give you whatever you need next week. A separate DHW install is not my bag. However, if you really want DHW as well then perhaps a AA220 and a heat exchanger in the ductwork as you would get 2 for 1. Plenty of people here know hydronics better than I so let us know what you think and the right people will be here for you.
Thank you. I did originally plan to go with the boiler. But all said and done there will be a huge cost difference that I currently cant do.

 
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Rob R.
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Post by Rob R. » Sat. Apr. 14, 2018 7:51 am

I am interested in purchasing the Liesurline AK220 air furnace. What are your thoughts on that? Good furnace? At my old house I had good luck with their stoves.
Hi Frank - I have only seen/heard good reports on the Anthraking Furnaces. Very efficient design.
The closest I can put my chimney to my original propane furnace is 25 ish ft. Is that to far to supply the existing ductwork? I can move the furnace closer but im assuming that the furnace probably need to be close to were chimney exits basement.
I would much rather run ductwork than have a long run of flue pipe. You will need to clean the flyash out of the flue pipe occasionally, and a long run makes that more of a chore.
If I go with 220 has anyone had luck with DHW hookups and what would be a good system to purchase?
I'm sure you could put some sort of coil in the firebox, but I do not remember seeing it done on this furnace. In most cases I don't think it is worth it. My opinion has always been that if you want to make a lot of DHW with coal, get a boiler and be done with it.
Last one for now. Would building a room out of 2*6 walls and plywood be sufficient for coal storage? What size would hold 6 tons.
Check out these threads:

Coal Bin Pictures and Designs
How Big Do You Make a Coal Bin?
Coal Bin Design for an EFM
Thank you. I did originally plan to go with the boiler. But all said and done there will be a huge cost difference that I currently cant do.
Considering the list price on an AK220, I am pretty surprised you can't get a used boiler setup for the same or less money. Are you doing the install yourself, or hiring it out?

One more thought - Did you go through the steps to calculate the heat load of your house? The AK180 may be plenty for you.

 
Frank F
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Post by Frank F » Sat. Apr. 14, 2018 9:25 am

Rob R. wrote:
Sat. Apr. 14, 2018 7:51 am
Hi Frank - I have only seen/heard good reports on the Anthraking Furnaces. Very efficient design.



I would much rather run ductwork than have a long run of flue pipe. You will need to clean the flyash out of the flue pipe occasionally, and a long run makes that more of a chore.



I'm sure you could put some sort of coil in the firebox, but I do not remember seeing it done on this furnace. In most cases I don't think it is worth it. My opinion has always been that if you want to make a lot of DHW with coal, get a boiler and be done with it.



Check out these threads:

Coal Bin Pictures and Designs
How Big Do You Make a Coal Bin?
Coal Bin Design for an EFM



Considering the list price on an AK220, I am pretty surprised you can't get a used boiler setup for the same or less money. Are you doing the install yourself, or hiring it out?

One more thought - Did you go through the steps to calculate the heat load of your house? The AK180 may be plenty for you.
Thank you. I did not, just assumed. I did buy a small stove years ago and ended up having to upgrade the following year. So I'd rather go bigger and only light one burner vs have to also run propane.
I need to calculate the heat load though. Is there a good thread on that?
My place is 2400 sqft not including basement at 1600-1800. And 1 1/2 stall garage that I'd like to put a run too.
For the boiler I'm concerned going with used. I've read alot if horror stories. The way my plenum is designed I will need at least 3 zones. There is a A/C coil in plenum so I don't have room for one large coil. After pricing the 3 zones just am not sure it's the right direction. I keep going back and forth.

I plan on doing all the work either way. I'm pretty good with plumbing and sheet metal.

 
coalnewbie
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Coal Size/Type: Rice,
Other Heating: Heating Oil CH, Toyotomi OM 22

Post by coalnewbie » Sat. Apr. 14, 2018 10:33 am

But all said and done there will be a huge cost difference that I currently cant do.
The old horse farmers poverty trick here is insulate the basement. AK 180/220. Inlet air though a vent in the ground floor tied to the air box, setting up a cold air return is a must. Doors to basement cut a big hole that is air out. Thermostat to the AK on the ground floor. Start the heat pump and call from 1 to 15 max on the AK system to take the load. You will find nothing needs to be tied together and no huge costs of hydronics. Inaccurate? No! This year my HO bill went from 3000 gall+ to 150 galls and always real comfy. Convection really works! You don't need all that chit and it will be expensive.

 
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Rob R.
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Post by Rob R. » Sat. Apr. 14, 2018 10:50 am

The way my plenum is designed I will need at least 3 zones. There is a A/C coil in plenum so I don't have room for one large coil. After pricing the 3 zones just am not sure it's the right direction. I keep going back and forth.
ugh - just go with the furnace. If the job could be done with a single heat exchanger I would feel differently.

How do you intend to add the garage to the hot air system?


 
lzaharis
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Post by lzaharis » Sat. Apr. 14, 2018 12:00 pm

Frank F wrote:
Fri. Apr. 13, 2018 7:11 pm
Hello all,
First thank you in advance for any help or guidance.
I am interested in purchasing the Liesureline AK220 air furnace. What are your thoughts on that? Good furnace? At my old house I had good luck with their stoves.
The closest I can put my chimney to my original propane furnace is 25 ish ft. Is that to far to supply the existing ductwork? I can move the furnace closer but I'm assuming that the furnace probably need to be close to were chimney exits basement.
If I go with 220 has anyone had luck with D.H.W. hookups and what would be a good system to purchase?
Last one for now. Would building a room out of 2*6 walls and plywood be sufficient for coal storage? What size would hold 6 tons.

Thank you again.
===========================================================================================================


You should call Leisure Line and ask for Matt and discuss this with him at length.

He was still looking for someone that would be willing to have one of their AA220
coal stoker boilers in an outside installation of thier design.
You could have everything in one place outside with the bin directly feeding the hopper with
a manually operated auger pulling the coal out of a coal dog house built into the bin as needed to fill the hopper.
A simple shed or an insulated shed could have a coal bin on one end closest to your driveway where the
opening to the bin would be located.

 
Frank F
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Post by Frank F » Sat. Apr. 14, 2018 1:49 pm

lzaharis wrote:
Sat. Apr. 14, 2018 12:00 pm
===========================================================================================================


You should call Leisure Line and ask for Matt and discuss this with him at length.

He was still looking for someone that would be willing to have one of their AA220
coal stoker boilers in an outside installation of thier design.
You could have everything in one place outside with the bin directly feeding the hopper with
a manually operated auger pulling the coal out of a coal dog house built into the bin as needed to fill the hopper.
A simple shed or an insulated shed could have a coal bin on one end closest to your driveway where the
opening to the bin would be located.

Thank you. I did call and talk with Matt. That was my goal but to cut cost I was going to install in the garage. But after pricing everything I can't swing it. I'd love too that was my plan. My kid is disabled and has lung issues so getting rid of the forced air down there and keeping coal outside was my goal. Keeping dust to a minimum. But I cant do it right now. I figured it to be around 11 grand once I bought all materials for 4 zones and coal. I can't do it now. I may regret it down the Rd but don't really have a choice.

 
Frank F
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Post by Frank F » Sat. Apr. 14, 2018 1:52 pm

Rob R. wrote:
Sat. Apr. 14, 2018 10:50 am
ugh - just go with the furnace. If the job could be done with a single heat exchanger I would feel differently.

How do you intend to add the garage to the hot air system?
To be honest I'm not sure though of maybe running a duct. I don't need it to be hot just warm enough to cut the chill while out there working. Or melt snow.

 
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Post by McGiever » Sat. Apr. 14, 2018 9:24 pm

Where ever you have a supply register you'll need a return register for it to work.

Return air from a garage space is not ideal.

 
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Rob R.
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Post by Rob R. » Sun. Apr. 15, 2018 9:47 am

Frank F wrote:
Sat. Apr. 14, 2018 1:49 pm
My kid is disabled and has lung issues so getting rid of the forced air down there and keeping coal outside was my goal. Keeping dust to a minimum. But I cant do it right now. I figured it to be around 11 grand once I bought all materials for 4 zones and coal. I can't do it now. I may regret it down the Rd but don't really have a choice.

If your child has respiratory issues, I can see why you were considering a garage installation.

[/quote]
McGiever wrote:
Sat. Apr. 14, 2018 9:24 pm
Return air from a garage space is not ideal.
That is what I was thinking. Sucking exhaust or gasoline fumes back into the furnace (and the rest of the house) would be bad.

 
lzaharis
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Post by lzaharis » Sun. Apr. 15, 2018 10:20 am

For the immediate future you should invest in at least 2 Orec air cleaners
for your home and perhaps a third for your childs bedroom.
I have 2 of them the original that they built in the mid 1980's with the disposable air filter and the
newest one from 7 years ago with the permanent filter that can be washed and cleaned.

The older one needs an electric motor now.

 
Frank F
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Post by Frank F » Mon. Apr. 16, 2018 9:24 pm

lzaharis wrote:
Sun. Apr. 15, 2018 10:20 am
For the immediate future you should invest in at least 2 Orec air cleaners
for your home and perhaps a third for your childs bedroom.
I have 2 of them the original that they built in the mid 1980's with the disposable air filter and the
newest one from 7 years ago with the permanent filter that can be washed and cleaned.

The older one needs an electric motor now.
Great idea thank you. I'll do some research on them.

 
Frank F
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Post by Frank F » Mon. Apr. 16, 2018 9:27 pm

Rob R. wrote:
Sun. Apr. 15, 2018 9:47 am
If your child has respiratory issues, I can see why you were considering a garage installation.
That is what I was thinking. Sucking exhaust or gasoline fumes back into the furnace (and the rest of the house) would be bad.
[/quote]

With boiler it would have worked. Guess I'll be putting a propane heater in the garage down the Rd.


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