Hitzer 608

 
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licavoli34
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Posts: 41
Joined: Sun. Nov. 30, 2014 10:23 pm
Hot Air Coal Stoker Furnace: Hitzer 608
Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: Old Mill Stoker
Baseburners & Antiques: Guerney Foundry, Cleveland Stove Co-op (2), Beckwith Round Oak,
Coal Size/Type: Rice
Other Heating: Red Efel Kamina (Wood), Nat Gas (Rudd 80%)

Post by licavoli34 » Sat. Feb. 10, 2018 8:05 pm

May I ask you all some questions on my Hitzer 608???

It runs perfectly but doesn't crank out Heat. Coaltrol at min15/max95 and it starts like an animal, and reverts to a 3 inch line of Coal 3" from the Bottom of the Grate. Could wet bagged Blackshak Coal be the problem?? It's all I ever find in Ohio, and I didn't buy in Advance and dry.

It Has a Powervent I Have dialed in repeatedly​. Just can't make it crank after startup. I have a 1200 Sq. Ft. Pole Barn with Insulated 12 foot ceiling, no insulatuon in t111 walls. Am I just undersized?? I had a LL 180 that had no problem,,, before the Ceiling was installed!. Now, I can't get above 55 when it's 30 out.....Hitzer says at these Coaltrol Settings I should be pushing burning Coal off the Grate...Not even close.
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Thanks, Dave from NE Ohio..


 
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2biz
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Posts: 135
Joined: Mon. Feb. 13, 2017 7:49 am
Location: Southern Ohio
Other Heating: Leisure Line AK-110, Propane logs, Propane Ceramic 3 Burner Heater

Post by 2biz » Sun. Feb. 11, 2018 7:43 am

For starters, Do you have a coal trol manual and do you have a manometer to set the barometric damper? Draft should be set at -.04" and should not be allowed to go below -.02" ...

How close to the stove is the t-stat? It needs to be at least 10-15 feet from the stove since it sounds like you are trying to heat a shop or garage. Further from the stove is better. It also looks like your min-max settings are way off. A 95 max feed setting will push unburnt coal off the grate if you are running 99% feed. Start off with default settings of min 6 and max 40. Set min/max per the coal troll manual. Having both set correctly is very important for proper operation of the stove. When the max is set properly, you will have about 1" of ashes at the end of the grate. When setting max, leave the t-stat set on the max screen when making adjustments. It can take some time for the stove to settle in, so this step can take awhile, even hours....Once you go back to the round robin screen, the t-stat takes over and feeds based on the min/max setting and temperature differential of actual room temp and set point temp.

If the t-stat is too close to the stove and the actual temp at the t-stat is higher than set point, the stove is running on the min feed setting. (Which is what you're picture looks like at min feed 15). Looking at the round robin display will tell you what set point is and what actual room temperature is. On my coal trol, Pushing the menu button twice tells you what the feed is. A zero feed reading means you are running at the minimum feed setting....Anything higher than zero and its telling you what ratio you are feeding between the min and max feed settings. To get the stove to feed higher, you have to make sure the set point temperature is higher than the actual room temp.

 
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licavoli34
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Posts: 41
Joined: Sun. Nov. 30, 2014 10:23 pm
Hot Air Coal Stoker Furnace: Hitzer 608
Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: Old Mill Stoker
Baseburners & Antiques: Guerney Foundry, Cleveland Stove Co-op (2), Beckwith Round Oak,
Coal Size/Type: Rice
Other Heating: Red Efel Kamina (Wood), Nat Gas (Rudd 80%)

Post by licavoli34 » Sun. Feb. 11, 2018 9:46 am

No that Fire picture was at 99+ feed rate. It can't read 99+ and be operating at the Min Setting can it? TStat is near the Stove, but the Stove never even gets anywhere near the Set Point. I Set it high on purpose, like 75, and I can't get over 55..I did take your advice to leave the Max Screen up after I set it, I normally just set it and I go back to Round Robin screen,and will see if that makes a difference. And I will invest in a manometer, ..can it really make the Stove burn that off kilter if it isn't perfect? Supposedly at a Max of 95 I am supposed to be pushing burning Coal off the end of the Grate, but it is Chunky Ash, and most of the Coal is completely burnt to Ash.

 
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2biz
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Posts: 135
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Location: Southern Ohio
Other Heating: Leisure Line AK-110, Propane logs, Propane Ceramic 3 Burner Heater

Post by 2biz » Sun. Feb. 11, 2018 10:34 am

With a max feed set at 95 and feed rate of 99%, the feed motor would never shut off! With Max set @ 40 and a feed rate of 99+, it should be close to pushing red hot coals off the end of the grate. Sounds to me like you have a bad thermostat, bad connection or bad cat5 cable, or bad control at the stove? Curious, is the cat5 cable the original or a different one? It has to be a pass through cable and not a cross-over cable. It won't run correctly if its a cross-over cable.

 
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licavoli34
Member
Posts: 41
Joined: Sun. Nov. 30, 2014 10:23 pm
Hot Air Coal Stoker Furnace: Hitzer 608
Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: Old Mill Stoker
Baseburners & Antiques: Guerney Foundry, Cleveland Stove Co-op (2), Beckwith Round Oak,
Coal Size/Type: Rice
Other Heating: Red Efel Kamina (Wood), Nat Gas (Rudd 80%)

Post by licavoli34 » Sun. Feb. 11, 2018 11:03 am

I was under the impression if I had a crossover cable, it wouldn't run at all?? I had a long Cable that didn't work, so I assumed it was a Crossover, so I switched to a shorter one that worked, which I assumed to be a thruput, but maybe it isn't, maybe the other cable was just bad?? Will look into securing a new Ethernet Cable as 1 troubleshooting idea. If my draft isnt spot on .02-.04 from the get go, will that render all other fixes useless?? I set the Max at 45 and left the Max screen up, will see if it behaves differently...If I set it and leave the Max menu, and go back to the Round Robin, what happens? What setting does it go to? I ran a Leisure Line Hy Fire for a month with a normal/traditional chimney stack outside, no Barometric Damper, and a different Coal Trol, and it ran perfectly, both grates responded to changes in the Coal Trol, and it cranked Heat during the day, and went back to the lower setbacks at Night and burned evenly throughout. That's why this one with the SWG Powervent and Barometric Damper is perplexing me as to why it is so hard to operate correctly...

 
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licavoli34
Member
Posts: 41
Joined: Sun. Nov. 30, 2014 10:23 pm
Hot Air Coal Stoker Furnace: Hitzer 608
Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: Old Mill Stoker
Baseburners & Antiques: Guerney Foundry, Cleveland Stove Co-op (2), Beckwith Round Oak,
Coal Size/Type: Rice
Other Heating: Red Efel Kamina (Wood), Nat Gas (Rudd 80%)

Post by licavoli34 » Sun. Feb. 11, 2018 11:11 am

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Here is my Cable, it says Cat5 Patch Cable..

 
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2biz
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Posts: 135
Joined: Mon. Feb. 13, 2017 7:49 am
Location: Southern Ohio
Other Heating: Leisure Line AK-110, Propane logs, Propane Ceramic 3 Burner Heater

Post by 2biz » Sun. Feb. 11, 2018 12:17 pm

Per the coal troll instructions, the cable can not be longer than 50ft. With a new coal troll, they supply a 25ft cable. I put a 50ft cable on mine and it works fine. Cross-over cables can also be called Patch Cables....First I would eliminate that as being the culprit.

Draft does not affect why its not feeding correctly. Totally separate....Making sure your draft is set right keeps excessive heat from going out the chimney and keeps enough vacuum on the stove to keep from venting back into the hopper. Too much draft can also pull too much air through the hopper and cause the fire to burn back into the hopper. Not good. Its best to put a manometer on the stack before the baro to make sure its just right. I don't know how you'd set the power vent and baro without one?

When you go back to the round robin, the t-stat takes over and sets feed rate based on differential between room temp and set-point. It keeps raising feed rate till room temp is met, then it backs off feed to maintain set-point to within +/-1°. If room temp is above set=point, feed rate will be zero and actually be running at minimum set feed.


 
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licavoli34
Member
Posts: 41
Joined: Sun. Nov. 30, 2014 10:23 pm
Hot Air Coal Stoker Furnace: Hitzer 608
Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: Old Mill Stoker
Baseburners & Antiques: Guerney Foundry, Cleveland Stove Co-op (2), Beckwith Round Oak,
Coal Size/Type: Rice
Other Heating: Red Efel Kamina (Wood), Nat Gas (Rudd 80%)

Post by licavoli34 » Sun. Feb. 11, 2018 1:13 pm

Good old fashioned guess on the Power Vent and Barometric Damper. I set the damper on the Power Vent to 20% open, per the instructions directly from Hitzer, and think I am in the ballpark on the Barometric Damper. Not perfect, but I think if I could get this feeding right, I would take the time to Manometer in the Draft. Will definitely try a different Cable. I may list both my Stokers in the classifieds, and consider them for sale, as I am determining they are too sensitive and require too much work to pay $5 a day in Coal to operate correctly. Not sure, I may change my time if I have the patience to get this one dialed in.

 
ZCAM
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Joined: Wed. Sep. 30, 2020 4:19 pm
Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: 608
Coal Size/Type: Rice

Post by ZCAM » Wed. Sep. 30, 2020 6:16 pm

Hello all... new to burning coal, or trying to. Don’t know really what the hell im doing.
Bought a hitzer 608 for a good price, never used and the store where I bought it from really didn’t know much about it. He said he sells 1 coal stove every 7 years.
Anyways I bought it. Installed it (hoping I did it right) came with a power vent. No rehostat just a regular on off switch.
Didn’t realize the vent had a damper in it until after I put it in the wall and connected all the pipes. But I do remember the metal flap in it had been flat facing me instead of flat facing up.

So I’m sure I F’d that all up.
I started the stove with wood pellets then threw some coals on time and used this coal trol thing.
The stove got hot, really hot. But the rest of the house was kinda cold. So without knows what the hell I was doing I started pressing up and done on the damn buttons.
The stove goes on and off constantly, but I want it running all the time. Spent about an out trying this sh*t and can’t figure out anything man.
Can someone please help? I need guidance like you wouldn’t believe.
Hope someone can
Thank you all and stay healthy!

 
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licavoli34
Member
Posts: 41
Joined: Sun. Nov. 30, 2014 10:23 pm
Hot Air Coal Stoker Furnace: Hitzer 608
Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: Old Mill Stoker
Baseburners & Antiques: Guerney Foundry, Cleveland Stove Co-op (2), Beckwith Round Oak,
Coal Size/Type: Rice
Other Heating: Red Efel Kamina (Wood), Nat Gas (Rudd 80%)

Post by licavoli34 » Wed. Sep. 30, 2020 8:27 pm

It is reasonably complicated but I will try to explain it.

1. Watch this Video, and download/view the manual online



2. Make sure the Coaltrol is 25 to 50 feet away from Stove. Set the desired Temp you want, It should push Coal until the room reaches Temp. and then push coal based on the Coal Trol settings. Set the Low on 12 and the High at 50 to start. Once it hits the desired room temp per your setting, the Coal Trol will take over, and run/push Coal between 12% and 50% of the time, based on how quickly your Room loses the heat.

3. That flapper in the Power Vent should be about 80% closed, I had a Hitzer 608, so I know it's complicated at first, but it cranks once you figure out the Coaltrol.

 
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licavoli34
Member
Posts: 41
Joined: Sun. Nov. 30, 2014 10:23 pm
Hot Air Coal Stoker Furnace: Hitzer 608
Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: Old Mill Stoker
Baseburners & Antiques: Guerney Foundry, Cleveland Stove Co-op (2), Beckwith Round Oak,
Coal Size/Type: Rice
Other Heating: Red Efel Kamina (Wood), Nat Gas (Rudd 80%)

Post by licavoli34 » Wed. Sep. 30, 2020 8:32 pm

The Blower will only run as needed to maintain Room Temp you set. It won't run constantly, nor will the auger push coal constantly. The idea is to keep your room at the desired Temp using as little Coal as possible..

 
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Spacecadet
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Posts: 278
Joined: Sat. Feb. 10, 2018 9:36 pm
Location: New Paltz NY
Hand Fed Coal Stove: Hitzer 30-95, Hitzer 30/95
Coal Size/Type: nut
Other Heating: US stove 6041 pellet

Post by Spacecadet » Thu. Oct. 01, 2020 9:15 pm

The 608 is an awesome stove. Don’t condemn the stove because of the difficulty in learning the coal troll. I sold mine because I needed some $$. Honestly I wish I would have kept it. Another key with coal troll thermostat placement- hot air rises and cool air falls. The farther you place the troll away the better it works on keep the room temp even. However if you mount it directly in front of the stove even at the distance with the fan and air rising and falling it may ‘confuse’ the troll. I found it was best to put the trol a distance on either side of the stove where there wasn’t a breeze or a draft.

 
User avatar
licavoli34
Member
Posts: 41
Joined: Sun. Nov. 30, 2014 10:23 pm
Hot Air Coal Stoker Furnace: Hitzer 608
Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: Old Mill Stoker
Baseburners & Antiques: Guerney Foundry, Cleveland Stove Co-op (2), Beckwith Round Oak,
Coal Size/Type: Rice
Other Heating: Red Efel Kamina (Wood), Nat Gas (Rudd 80%)

Post by licavoli34 » Thu. Oct. 01, 2020 10:19 pm

Yes I have an old school mechanical Paragon Percentage Timer, with the dials on an old Old Mill stoker. Have an old Dayton Spring thermostat hanging from the ceiling about 20 feet away hooked into it. It controls the rate once the Thermostat hits temp. I set it to 10- 12%/minute at night, turn the thermostat down to 45, and turn the thermostat back up in the morning. Does a pretty good job, but the Coal Trol conserved more Coal, but took a long time for an adjustment to set in. I Also sold my Hitzer 608 with the Coal Trol, kept the Power Vent. It was a great Stove, too nice for my shop.

 
Soccer918843
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Post by Soccer918843 » Sat. Oct. 03, 2020 7:41 pm

How do I tell if my cat 5 is a pass through cable. Does anyone recommend a good quality black cat 5 cable?

 
User avatar
licavoli34
Member
Posts: 41
Joined: Sun. Nov. 30, 2014 10:23 pm
Hot Air Coal Stoker Furnace: Hitzer 608
Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: Old Mill Stoker
Baseburners & Antiques: Guerney Foundry, Cleveland Stove Co-op (2), Beckwith Round Oak,
Coal Size/Type: Rice
Other Heating: Red Efel Kamina (Wood), Nat Gas (Rudd 80%)

Post by licavoli34 » Sat. Oct. 03, 2020 7:49 pm

One easy way to tell what you have is to look at the order of the colored wires inside the RJ45 connector. If the order of the wires is the same on both ends, then you have a straight-through cable. If not, then it’s most likely a crossover cable or was wired wrong


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