this forum is great for getting the info i'm looking for, thanks to everyone who participates!!
can I use LL's piping diagram for thier stove w/hot air jacket for a stoker furnace? i'm told that the heat off of the furnace is much greater than that of the stove/hot air jacket, and that I would burn out the blower on the existing propane furnace.
Joe
Stoker Furnace
- Lumberjack
- Member
- Posts: 81
- Joined: Sat. Apr. 12, 2008 7:12 pm
If I understand your question the LL method uses the existing furnaces blower to move the air. Ideally you want the blower located on the intake side so that it is moving cold air.
A regular furnace like the koker and the 140auger comes with its own blower. All that is needed are back draft dampers so that the air does not flow in reverse through the system. I will have one installed in the output of both my oil furnace and coal furnace. Both furnaces will then share ductwork.
A regular furnace like the koker and the 140auger comes with its own blower. All that is needed are back draft dampers so that the air does not flow in reverse through the system. I will have one installed in the output of both my oil furnace and coal furnace. Both furnaces will then share ductwork.
- watkinsdr
- Member
- Posts: 243
- Joined: Sat. Mar. 24, 2007 8:14 pm
- Location: Kensington, New Hampshire
- Stoker Coal Boiler: AHS S260 Boiler
Using the "Leisure Line" method for hot air circulation in a FHA system should work really slick. I'll be changing my system to use this method this summer. I'll let you know if the hot air from my Keystoker Koker burns out the fan motor in my propane furnace next winter!! Personally, I don't believe it will be a problem; but, you never know...
Last winter was my first year burning anthracite with my Keystoker Koker. The Koker's 1529 CFM fan worked OK for my house; but, I want to try the "Leisure Line" method to improve air circulation. I believe Leisure Line's web site has a warning about hot air exceeding ~103 degrees being fed into your furnace's blower. I'll definitely have a thermometer measuring the air temp going into my propane furnace. If the temp is consistently >110 degrees, I'll probably invest in a spare blower motor just in case...
I've also found the dial meat thermometer from my Weber gas grill has the perfect temperature range and accuracy for measuring hot air temps in duct work---they're cheap and easy to find where ever grilling accessories are sold. Just drill a hole in the duct work and take temperaure measurements as needed; then, plug the hole with a piece of duct tape when done.
Last winter was my first year burning anthracite with my Keystoker Koker. The Koker's 1529 CFM fan worked OK for my house; but, I want to try the "Leisure Line" method to improve air circulation. I believe Leisure Line's web site has a warning about hot air exceeding ~103 degrees being fed into your furnace's blower. I'll definitely have a thermometer measuring the air temp going into my propane furnace. If the temp is consistently >110 degrees, I'll probably invest in a spare blower motor just in case...
I've also found the dial meat thermometer from my Weber gas grill has the perfect temperature range and accuracy for measuring hot air temps in duct work---they're cheap and easy to find where ever grilling accessories are sold. Just drill a hole in the duct work and take temperaure measurements as needed; then, plug the hole with a piece of duct tape when done.
whats your plan on running your blower motors? I'll have a simular set up with a alaska 140 that has a 1550 cfm fan. i'm thinking that if I can get the furnace fan and the fan on the alaska 140 to run the same speed, I will run them both. I have to think that one through a little. any ideas?