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Yellow Snow
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Posts: 6
Joined: Tue. Jan. 16, 2018 5:34 pm
Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: Alaska Console III
Coal Size/Type: Rice
Other Heating: Oil Forced Air

Post by Yellow Snow » Tue. Jan. 16, 2018 6:04 pm

So I am getting my first coal stoker. Been a wood burner since I was in diapers. We moved into an old farm house with an oil burner with a cracked heat exchanger. Gonna replace the oil burner, but need something going now, and in place of the oil burner.

So, I'm trying to do everything right and have been reading a lot here. Still have not found the right thread I guess as I still have a few questions.

Stove is a used Alaska kast console III rear vent, with a power vent. The price is right and as much as I'd prefer a top vent, I can't pass it up.

Alaska website says 4" to pipe for clearance. Is that single wall black pipe? I need to get the stove as close to the wall as possible. Floor space is needed... I will spend the extra for double wall pipe, but the double wall pipe all seems to be stainless. I would like to come into a Tee off of the stove, go up with a dampner, then into power vent. Should I just go straight through from rear vent to power vent?

Also, getting a Dwyer manometer. Not sure on the size of the copper tubing to insert into the exhaust and connect to the rubber tubing off of the manometer.

Can I adjust draft with the power vent going off of the manometer without the Baro? What Baro should I get? There are so many on Amazon.

Thanks a lot.

 
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StokerDon
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Location: PA, Southern York County!
Stoker Coal Boiler: Gentleman Janitor GJ-5, Van Wert VA-600, Axeman Anderson130 X3.
Hand Fed Coal Furnace: Harman SF3500 reduced down to 3 grates connected to its own plenum
Coal Size/Type: Rice, Chestnut and whatever will fit through the door on the Harman
Other Heating: Noth'in but COAL! Well, Maybe a little tiny bit of wood

Post by StokerDon » Tue. Jan. 16, 2018 6:59 pm

Welcome to the forum.
Yellow Snow wrote:
Tue. Jan. 16, 2018 6:04 pm
Also, getting a Dwyer manometer. Not sure on the size of the copper tubing to insert into the exhaust and connect to the rubber tubing off of the manometer.
Manometer hose is usually 1/8". I don't know much about power vents but running one without a baro damper to bring the draft down won't go well.

Size of the vent pipe should be a clue as to what size baro to get. A type RC baro is the one to use with coal.

-Don

 
Yellow Snow
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Posts: 6
Joined: Tue. Jan. 16, 2018 5:34 pm
Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: Alaska Console III
Coal Size/Type: Rice
Other Heating: Oil Forced Air

Post by Yellow Snow » Tue. Jan. 16, 2018 7:09 pm

StokerDon wrote:
Tue. Jan. 16, 2018 6:59 pm
Welcome to the forum.

Manometer hose is usually 1/8". I don't know much about power vents but running one without a baro damper to bring the draft down won't go well.

Size of the vent pipe should be a clue as to what size baro to get. A type RC baro is the one to use with coal.

-Don
Thank you.

I'll pick up an 1/8" copper line.

I know I need a 6" Baro if I use ine, just wasn't sure on what type. I was thinking there were different kinds for different applications.


 
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StokerDon
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Posts: 7486
Joined: Mon. Nov. 11, 2013 11:17 am
Location: PA, Southern York County!
Stoker Coal Boiler: Gentleman Janitor GJ-5, Van Wert VA-600, Axeman Anderson130 X3.
Hand Fed Coal Furnace: Harman SF3500 reduced down to 3 grates connected to its own plenum
Coal Size/Type: Rice, Chestnut and whatever will fit through the door on the Harman
Other Heating: Noth'in but COAL! Well, Maybe a little tiny bit of wood

Post by StokerDon » Tue. Jan. 16, 2018 8:22 pm

Type RC is the one to use for coal applications.

-Don

 
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2biz
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Location: Southern Ohio
Other Heating: Leisure Line AK-110, Propane logs, Propane Ceramic 3 Burner Heater

Post by 2biz » Tue. Jan. 16, 2018 8:26 pm

Instead of using copper tubing, you can also use a short piece of 3/16" brake line....(Might be easier to source at your local auto parts store) You'll need to cut off the flares on each end. To attach the brake line to the pipe, get a 3/16" compression X 1/8" npt fitting at the hardware store....You'll have to source a 1/8" NPT nut...I got one off Amazon....Put a thin SS washer on both sides of the pipe and it'll work like a charm....You don't want to use the plastic fittings that come with the Manometer for obvious reasons!

 
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coaledsweat
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Post by coaledsweat » Tue. Jan. 16, 2018 9:06 pm

I didn't attatch mine, nor cut the flare off on the end opposite the hose. I have a bend in the end of the line and hang it in the hole for a reading. I don't like it attatched because it should be zeroed before each use. When not reading the draft, I just slide a probe thermometer in the hole for obvious reasons.


 
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2biz
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Other Heating: Leisure Line AK-110, Propane logs, Propane Ceramic 3 Burner Heater

Post by 2biz » Wed. Jan. 17, 2018 5:10 am

Many ways to do the same thing. To check zero with it perminately attached is easy. Just take the hose off the manometer. Interesting though, every time I've checked zero on mine this winter, it's never needed an adjustment. I also used good silicone tubing that makes it easier to get on/off the fitting on the manometer while still making a good airtight seal.

 
Yellow Snow
New Member
Posts: 6
Joined: Tue. Jan. 16, 2018 5:34 pm
Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: Alaska Console III
Coal Size/Type: Rice
Other Heating: Oil Forced Air

Post by Yellow Snow » Wed. Jan. 17, 2018 7:21 am

Thanks a bunch all.

I got the Baro and manometer ordered. I have a piece of brake line out in the barn I could probably make work.

I'm probably going to go with double wall pipe just to be within the clearances of the pipe manufactures. I hope the stainless can hold up as it's quite the price jump from single wall. Keeping the stove closer to the wall is important to the wife as space is at a premium.

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