Had to shut down this morning
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- Member
- Posts: 84
- Joined: Mon. Mar. 27, 2017 9:55 pm
- Location: Drums, PA (NEPA)
- Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: Leisure Line Hyfire
I've struggled with draft and learned some tricks for improving it.
1. Shove a piece of insulation in the chimney clean out door to seal it off
2. Restrict combustion air (my hyfire has half moon air block offs specifically for this)
3. foil on the baro
4. adjust min feed rate. I don't like this option. It's juts as easy to shut down and re-light than to forever waste coal
5. keep the stovepipe clean of flyash.
1. Shove a piece of insulation in the chimney clean out door to seal it off
2. Restrict combustion air (my hyfire has half moon air block offs specifically for this)
3. foil on the baro
4. adjust min feed rate. I don't like this option. It's juts as easy to shut down and re-light than to forever waste coal
5. keep the stovepipe clean of flyash.
- 2biz
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- Joined: Mon. Feb. 13, 2017 7:49 am
- Location: Southern Ohio
- Other Heating: Leisure Line AK-110, Propane logs, Propane Ceramic 3 Burner Heater
With the warmup this weekend, I finally got around to setting minimum feed to 10 like you suggested. This has helped in more ways than just increasing draft at idle. Now the draft is staying at a steady -.02 to -.03" (at idle) where before it would drop to zero or just above. Before with minimum set to 4, the convection fan was short cycling because of the low limit setting. Even though the house is a few degrees warmer than set point now, the blower doesn't short cycle any more. And it doesn't appear to use any more coal. If it is, its so little its not noticeable. It is 35° out this morning. Feed is at "0" and the house is 2° warmer than setpoint....Amazing how a minor adjustment can make all the difference in the world! Thanks for the suggestion! This was much easier than installing the draft inducer!WNY wrote: ↑Sat. Jan. 13, 2018 8:14 amdo you have a coaltrol? increase your min a bit. I think I have mine at 8 or 10 . it'll add a little more heat to make more draft. It might make the house a little warmer than you need to, but it helps. Do you have a baro damper? sometimes covering that help with aluminum foil when it's warm, adds a bit more draft to the stove.
I have a hyfire and don't have a problem with keeping a draft when it's warm, i do have a 35' brick chimney that goes up thru the house.
- WNY
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- Location: Cuba, NY
- Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: Keystoker 90K, Leisure Line Hyfire I
- Coal Size/Type: Rice
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Woot! Exactly. No problem. been there. I did my research on it and figured out what i had to do to maintain good draft. i can idle mine even with 40-50 degrees outside usually with no problems.
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- Joined: Thu. Sep. 28, 2017 10:57 am
- Location: Coal Township Pa
- Stoker Coal Boiler: K2- Keystoker
- Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: Alaska Stoker Stove
- Coal Size/Type: Rice
My draft dies around 60 degrees or more. No Baro damper though, that would only make it worse. I cant see any reason for one on a coal stove. I dont burn all summer for hot water though that would be hell trying to keep it going when its 90 out,not to mention heating up my kitchen floor in the summer.
- windyhill4.2
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- Posts: 6072
- Joined: Fri. Nov. 22, 2013 2:17 pm
- Location: Jonestown,Pa.17038
- Stoker Coal Boiler: 1960 EFM520 installed in truck box
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: Crane 404 with variable blower
- Coal Size/Type: 404-nut, 520 rice ,anthracite for both
A baro is the only way to control a stove hooked to a strong drafting chimney & still be able to maintain a reasonably consistent heat output.k-2 wrote: ↑Mon. Jan. 29, 2018 4:45 pmMy draft dies around 60 degrees or more. No Baro damper though, that would only make it worse. I cant see any reason for one on a coal stove. I dont burn all summer for hot water though that would be hell trying to keep it going when its 90 out,not to mention heating up my kitchen floor in the summer.
#### OR ..... some stoves have a bi-metallic controlled intake which controls the heat output without a baro.
I have kept my Crane 404 alive thru these warmer days with the highest temp @ 55* with a baro.
I just don't shake,poke or slice the ashes in the AM tending,stove temp will drop down to 180* as it did again today. In the PM tending,i shake & poke until it has a decent glow in the ash pan,add coal & it will run 350-400* overnite.
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- Posts: 1803
- Joined: Thu. Sep. 28, 2017 10:57 am
- Location: Coal Township Pa
- Stoker Coal Boiler: K2- Keystoker
- Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: Alaska Stoker Stove
- Coal Size/Type: Rice
Type of stove makes a difference, mine must have a built in resistance to air flow and I have a tall 35Ft+ chimney, and seem to need all the draft i can get.windyhill4.2 wrote: ↑Mon. Jan. 29, 2018 7:36 pmA baro is the only way to control a stove hooked to a strong drafting chimney & still be able to maintain a reasonably consistent heat output.
Just the leakage in a baro damper would kill what little i have. Good thing i dont have the need to run over summer. More draft would allow me to dial back my fire maintenance timer.Save me some coal in shoulder season.
- windyhill4.2
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- Joined: Fri. Nov. 22, 2013 2:17 pm
- Location: Jonestown,Pa.17038
- Stoker Coal Boiler: 1960 EFM520 installed in truck box
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: Crane 404 with variable blower
- Coal Size/Type: 404-nut, 520 rice ,anthracite for both
I don't run my coal stove over summer,but i do run my EFM520 stoker boiler all 366 days.