Time for new stove?
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- Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: Keystoker Econo 90
- Coal Size/Type: Rice
Thanks for the input. Even with the 90’s, the small duct gets more heat upstairs than without the ducting.
So the theory would be to remove the duct and cut some registers for supply and return air? I have the open staircase acting as return now. I’m kind of stuck with the finished ceiling, but I do have some spots where I could add some registers
So the theory would be to remove the duct and cut some registers for supply and return air? I have the open staircase acting as return now. I’m kind of stuck with the finished ceiling, but I do have some spots where I could add some registers
- michaelanthony
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- Hand Fed Coal Stove: Vigilant 2310, gold marc box stove
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The vertical pipe from the stove can then go horizontal in a direct line to the vents. The vertical pipe should terminate lower than the beam, then a bee line to the vent. No left, right, up, down, etc. Same with the one going to the corner, direct line to the register no left, right turns following the walls. If head room is an issue build a 10" wide X 4" tall soffit.Goodcoal wrote: ↑Thu. Jan. 11, 2018 8:22 pmThanks for the input. Even with the 90’s, the small duct gets more heat upstairs than without the ducting.
So the theory would be to remove the duct and cut some registers for supply and return air? I have the open staircase acting as return now. I’m kind of stuck with the finished ceiling, but I do have some spots where I could add some registers
edit: heated air will replace the cooler air heading to the stove.
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- Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: Keystoker Econo 90
- Coal Size/Type: Rice
Straight runs make sense. Those ceilings are just about 7 feet, and I’m 6’3”, so the beam and ducting is intrusive as it is. That beam is a shroud for a steel support. Maybe eliminating a turn or two would make a significant difference? I was thinking about 6 inch pipe, but that gets really tight down there
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What is temperature of flue pipe? If over 200, too much heat is escaping to the chimney and not into the room. The stove might be producing enough heat, but it is not getting out.
I suspect the stairway is both supply and return. Burning piece of thick cotton string smoke test at floor level and high up would tell. Can you feel the air currents there?
I suspect the stairway is both supply and return. Burning piece of thick cotton string smoke test at floor level and high up would tell. Can you feel the air currents there?
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- Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: Keystoker Econo 90
- Coal Size/Type: Rice
Okay, got a digital infrared thermometer and checked different places for temperature loss. Burning about 4 turns from max with .02-.04 draft with barometric damper. Exhaust reads 140ish, sides of stove at 105, glass on door upwards of 350, outside of ducting around 80-90, registers open in two rooms from 4 inch duct from stove reading at about 115-120.
One window in living room reads around 50 at the edges and on the glass, same spots of the front door around door jamb area. Seems like I’m getting good heat to registers, then losing it around the leaky window and door. Other windows read around 58-60, pretty old windows.
Does 105 on sides and 350ish on the glass seem right for this kind of stove? It’s double walled. The wall thermometer, situated between drafty window and door upstairs, reads 64. Outside is 15. Maybe I’m doing as well as I can with old drafty windows and doors. Any thoughts?
Tried taking down one run of duct to bedroom, couldn’t keep upstairs above 62. I think I need the second run to get more air upstairs.
One window in living room reads around 50 at the edges and on the glass, same spots of the front door around door jamb area. Seems like I’m getting good heat to registers, then losing it around the leaky window and door. Other windows read around 58-60, pretty old windows.
Does 105 on sides and 350ish on the glass seem right for this kind of stove? It’s double walled. The wall thermometer, situated between drafty window and door upstairs, reads 64. Outside is 15. Maybe I’m doing as well as I can with old drafty windows and doors. Any thoughts?
Tried taking down one run of duct to bedroom, couldn’t keep upstairs above 62. I think I need the second run to get more air upstairs.
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But after I was done with it I know it was clean as it really poured out the heat on very little coal. To keep it that way, I bought a dishwasher drain hose kit (I think that's what it was) that was grey rubbery PVC with wire reinforcement that was the perfect size and stiffness. I taped one end into my shop vac hose and then snaked the other end way up into the nether regions of the Keystoker (up each side of the firebox and over the top). I only burned a ton or two a season but would vacuum it out at the halfway point and at the end after I shut it down. It may have been super efficient but what a pain in the arse to keep clean!
8 years with my Keystoker and I never did this --- the best tip on the board this week. Thx === and you even spell arse correctly.
- aseecobra
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- Location: Hamburg, PA USA
- Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: Keystoker 90K triple wall with 350cfm blower.
- Coal Size/Type: Rice
- Other Heating: Electric baseboard
Goodcoal,
I have a 90K double wall with a 350cfm blower heating a not great insulated and sealed 1950 sq. ft raised range.
The stove at full burn was able to keep it 71* in the house during the recent zero degree weather.
The stove is in a 600 sq ft. basement partition. I blocked off the original front hot air outlet and have a 8" collar on the top for hot air exhaust with 8" duct connected feeding two 6" ducts feeding two upstairs registers. There is an outlet coming off the 8" to expel heat into the basement.
I have a damper valve in the mix so I can balance air flow between upstairs and down.
My stairway to the basement is the air return.
Like the others mentioned, increase your duct size to at least 6" and reduce the bends.
If you don't have the 350cfm fan, get one from Don. My 90k came with a 265cfm fan and it wasn't enough. The mounting outlet of the 350 fan is larger than the 265 so the opening on the back of the stave will have to be enlarged.
Keeping the barometric damper tee right at the stove will keep a little more heat in the stove.
I have a 90K double wall with a 350cfm blower heating a not great insulated and sealed 1950 sq. ft raised range.
The stove at full burn was able to keep it 71* in the house during the recent zero degree weather.
The stove is in a 600 sq ft. basement partition. I blocked off the original front hot air outlet and have a 8" collar on the top for hot air exhaust with 8" duct connected feeding two 6" ducts feeding two upstairs registers. There is an outlet coming off the 8" to expel heat into the basement.
I have a damper valve in the mix so I can balance air flow between upstairs and down.
My stairway to the basement is the air return.
Like the others mentioned, increase your duct size to at least 6" and reduce the bends.
If you don't have the 350cfm fan, get one from Don. My 90k came with a 265cfm fan and it wasn't enough. The mounting outlet of the 350 fan is larger than the 265 so the opening on the back of the stave will have to be enlarged.
Keeping the barometric damper tee right at the stove will keep a little more heat in the stove.
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- New Member
- Posts: 10
- Joined: Tue. Jan. 09, 2018 6:31 pm
- Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: Keystoker Econo 90
- Coal Size/Type: Rice
Have had some breaks with weather and some time to try some of your suggestions.
Took out one 90 degree turn and smoothed out another with a different angle of duct, still the 4 inch, and had the stove bump up from 59 when I got home today from work to a toasty 68 right now, and climbing. It’s 24 outside. We’ll see what it does when the mercury drops again outside this weekend.
Opened the combustion shutter to more than halfway. I was always concerned about too much combustion air, but after a recent thorough cleaning where I removed a bunch of fly ash from all sorts of places, I felt it was time to give More air a try now that I know the exhaust paths are as clear as they’ve been since I’ve had the stove.
Sides of stove up to 140, front glass up to 460, register to 140ish. Much more comfortable in the house.
Keeping the draft around .02, so I’m not thinking that a CO backup through the stove is likely. Does this sound right? I’m sure no pro, but it seems like I’m starting to get the hang of this coal burning thing. Lots to learn.
Took out one 90 degree turn and smoothed out another with a different angle of duct, still the 4 inch, and had the stove bump up from 59 when I got home today from work to a toasty 68 right now, and climbing. It’s 24 outside. We’ll see what it does when the mercury drops again outside this weekend.
Opened the combustion shutter to more than halfway. I was always concerned about too much combustion air, but after a recent thorough cleaning where I removed a bunch of fly ash from all sorts of places, I felt it was time to give More air a try now that I know the exhaust paths are as clear as they’ve been since I’ve had the stove.
Sides of stove up to 140, front glass up to 460, register to 140ish. Much more comfortable in the house.
Keeping the draft around .02, so I’m not thinking that a CO backup through the stove is likely. Does this sound right? I’m sure no pro, but it seems like I’m starting to get the hang of this coal burning thing. Lots to learn.
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- Coal Size/Type: rice
use 3.25" x 12" rectangular duct.