Want to supplement my Geothermal heatpump

 
coalnewbie
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Post by coalnewbie » Sun. Jan. 14, 2018 8:40 am

I would not like to interfere with the air flow through the AK110 as I have suggested. We need pics and he needs to finally decide. Then we can talk.

 
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2biz
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Post by 2biz » Sun. Jan. 14, 2018 8:48 am

coalnewbie wrote:
Sun. Jan. 14, 2018 8:40 am
I would not like to interfere with the air flow through the AK110 as I have suggested.
Can you explain what you mean a little better so newb's like me can understand?! Who said anything about interfering with airflow from the AK-110?

 
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windyhill4.2
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Post by windyhill4.2 » Sun. Jan. 14, 2018 9:38 am

2biz wrote:
Sun. Jan. 14, 2018 8:09 am


Or putting the furnace in the garage, which the radiant heat will keep it warm and pipe the heated water in to the ductwork heat exchanger...
Neither furnace nor boiler are legal to install in a garage in most areas without doing some significant special install requirements.

This has to do with gasoline fumes & fire............... BOOM :o


 
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Post by 2biz » Sun. Jan. 14, 2018 10:00 am

Good point...My garage is more of a shop/man cave where I Don't park cars or store gas....So good point to consider when deciding which direction to go...

 
coalnewbie
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Posts: 8601
Joined: Sat. May. 24, 2008 4:26 pm
Location: Chester, NY
Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: LL AnthraKing 180K, Pocono110K,KStokr 90K, DVC
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Baseburners & Antiques: Wings Best, Glenwood #8(x2) Herald 116x
Coal Size/Type: Rice,
Other Heating: Heating Oil CH, Toyotomi OM 22

Post by coalnewbie » Sun. Jan. 14, 2018 12:45 pm

Biz, my point is the stove is UL listed and the high temp switch should be about 2 feet from the duct outlet. So for instance is f the 1800cfm fails the outlet temp rises and the stove shuts down. So you do not want some other stove linked with that in an interfering way. I have a few ideas that I would bounce of you but let's see if this ever comes to pass. I would hope the stove dealer would have ideas too but the ones in Orange County I would not trust to plug in an electric fire.

 
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Post by 2biz » Sun. Jan. 14, 2018 7:19 pm

Thanks for the explanation... If the OP went with forced air and using the hot air duct from the GEO, it would be very similar to my installation except I tie into the duct of an air handler for air conditioning and electric heat strips, basically the same. My 2 systems are not tied together electrically. They only share the hot air duct with a manual damper that isolates one from the other. Only one can run at a time. If my 1800cfm blower fails, the high limit trips, turns off the combustion blower and stoker, and the gas logs take over automatically. I have my backup backed up!

So yea, we'll wait to see which direction he goes and I'd be interested in hearing what your idea is...

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