Hyfire Feed Rate Differences Between Sides

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brandonh98
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Post by brandonh98 » Wed. Dec. 13, 2017 7:01 pm

They say a picture is worth 1000 words...so I made a video. Long story short, is the movement on the feed motors (for lack of a better term) seen in the video normal?

Thanks,



 
DENNIS BAUER
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Post by DENNIS BAUER » Wed. Dec. 13, 2017 8:56 pm

The LL GUYS will be around shortly but bad ass video showing the concern! I'll be watching due to a close friend having the same set up as you.

 
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2biz
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Post by 2biz » Wed. Dec. 13, 2017 9:07 pm

I have the LL Ak-110 Stoker...Basically the same only mine has one feeder....The motor in the AK-110 is bolted solid to the plate. The bolts come down from the top of the plate and screw into the gear box. Then the plate bolts to the housing.....It looks like yours is missing the bolts that attach the gear box to the plate....Would be easy to drop the plate and take a look....

Here is a link to a similar motor they use. It has 10-32 threaded holes in the gearbox that are used to bolt the plate to the gear box...

http://www.gleasonavery.com/catalog/series-r.html

I can't imagine the Hyfire Feeder being that much different than the Ak-110....The motors being loose like that can't be right?

 
brandonh98
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Post by brandonh98 » Thu. Dec. 14, 2017 9:18 pm

2biz wrote:
Wed. Dec. 13, 2017 9:07 pm
It looks like yours is missing the bolts that attach the gear box to the plate...
I think you're exactly right. I am somehow missing all eight (four for each motor) bolts that attach the gear box to the plate. Does anyone have a bolt size for these?

How is thing even running with all eight of these bolts missing! This is crazy!

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brandonh98
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Post by brandonh98 » Thu. Dec. 14, 2017 9:25 pm

I guess this is what happens when you buy things used off craigslist! I thought this thing was well taken care of but maybe not!

 
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2biz
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Post by 2biz » Thu. Dec. 14, 2017 9:49 pm

Check the link in my post. The link has a diagram of the gearbox. You can measure yours and compare. The diagram says 10-32 thread.

 
brandonh98
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Post by brandonh98 » Thu. Dec. 14, 2017 10:43 pm

2biz wrote:
Thu. Dec. 14, 2017 9:49 pm
Check the link in my post. The link has a diagram of the gearbox. You can measure yours and compare. The diagram says 10-32 thread.
Ah! Good man. Thank you


 
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Turbogeno
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Post by Turbogeno » Fri. Dec. 15, 2017 7:03 am

My Pocono does not have any screws in the 4 corners but the motor doesn't wobble a bit. Sorry, no time to look into it further. Maybe later today.

 
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Post by brandonh98 » Fri. Dec. 15, 2017 8:46 am

Oh Really? I was wondering about these because a screw in those holes would potentially get in the way of the carpet moving back and forth. I sent a PM to Flyer5. Hopefully he chimes in sometime today. If not I'll get them a call this evening.

 
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Post by 2biz » Fri. Dec. 15, 2017 5:57 pm

I looked at my AK-110 after work today. Mine definitely has Allen head screws in the holes closest to the furnace. I couldn't see the back two. If you look at the carpet on LL's site under accessories, it is open in this area. So the cap screws wouldn't interfere with the rotation of the arm. Let us know what you find out.

 
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Post by FFK » Sun. Dec. 17, 2017 5:57 am

Hello. I'm not on here often but I also have the Hyfire ll. You can see in your video a bolt hanging down with a semi rusted nut on it. There is another on in the opposite corner. Pay attention to the orientation of everything. You have a video so if you get confused you have reference. Unplug the motor. I leave everything else running. Remove both nuts (7/16" wrench) and drop the motor and mounting plate. You may have to twist things a bit as the cam may be in an awkward spot, or run the motor a bit to give easy removal, I have done both. This will give you access to the mounting screws that mount the motor to the mounting plate. Tighten the now exposed screws. While you have the motor out you may want to vacuum any coal fines you find. You can also pull out the carpet and vacuum any fines you find under the carpet. Don't worry, you are not near the fire and nothing but the fines will come out. When you put the carpet back in, you will be pushing coal over the grate, not to worry though, it will return to normal in about an hour. If you have pushed the carpet in too far to put the motor back in just move it to where it needs to be. You will have to repeat this procedure occasionally depending on the coal you have purchased. They all have fines in them. Good luck.

 
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Post by WNY » Sun. Dec. 17, 2017 7:55 am

definately shouldn't be loose. i tried everything also, cleaned the pusher plate, etc... made sure everything was tight. and still was off side to side.
small differences in the gear box, pusher plate sticking a bit, etc...could be numerous things.
Mine were not burning even either. I changed the bearing on the feeder bar to a slightly larger one, maybe 1/16-1/8" larger and it makes it feed slightly more and they are even now.

you could also make the opening that the pusher bearing runs in a little smaller to make it push more coal in each stroke. mine still has the old manual adjustment on it for the opening, i did convert it to a coaltrol.

 
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Post by Flyer5 » Fri. Feb. 09, 2018 8:24 pm

Bolts are loose. 10/32 thread. There are only 2 used. If tightened properly it works great. They appear to be loose for a long time.

 
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Post by brandonh98 » Fri. Mar. 02, 2018 7:12 pm

Update: Took the hopper off today and tightened those loose bolts. Not only are they even now, but I also had to lower the max feed rate setting on the col-trol. Hot coals were falling off the end due to that motor not moving anymore.

On a side note, this is a used stove and those bolts have obviously been tightened before. The threads in the motor were stripped out slightly. I think they still got tight enough but I put some lock-tight on them to hopefully hold them in better. If they come out again I might have to bust out the tap and die set.

 
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Post by 2biz » Sun. Mar. 04, 2018 7:13 am

Thanks for coming back and providing an update! Glad you got it fixed!


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