Harmon Magnum push block grinding coal

 
jimbo970
Member
Posts: 184
Joined: Sat. Oct. 14, 2006 9:20 am

Post by jimbo970 » Tue. Nov. 26, 2019 7:10 am

titleist1 wrote:
Mon. Nov. 25, 2019 7:50 pm
You are correct, that is what i call 2 dots of movement. At 1-3/4" fork width I would expect at least 3 dots of movement. The fork movement as it rides the roller bearing looks fine. You should be able to get another 1/8" - 1/4" of block movement out of it to get past 3 dots of movement and the only thing left i can think to look at is the sleeve.

Could you show a video of the movement at the back end of the rod? Also if you can angle the video shot to see where the plate pushes the collar on the rod at the back of the pusher block that would be helpful.
T, here are pics of rod from back and from top. I am curious as the only way to get the shaft rod to butt up agains the block is to tighten the lever against the end from the back. I recall, sould be wrong that yrs back I could have the lever and night tight on end but not up against end of shaft. In any case here are mor vids let me know if this is what you meant.

Attachments

rod against block.MOV
.MOV | 32MB | rod against block.MOV
rod blk 2.MOV
.MOV | 12.3MB | rod blk 2.MOV
IMG_4877.MOV
.MOV | 30.6MB | IMG_4877.MOV

 
titleist1
Member
Posts: 5226
Joined: Wed. Nov. 14, 2007 4:06 pm

Post by titleist1 » Tue. Nov. 26, 2019 8:10 am

Not sure I understand this part "I am curious as the only way to get the shaft rod to butt up agains the block is to tighten the lever against the end from the back. I recall, sould be wrong that yrs back I could have the lever and night tight on end but not up against end of shaft. You can have the jam wing nut and lever locked in place but not against the back end of the sleeve, that is what would give you less than maximum movement.

Two things I noticed that may be related to limiting the overall movement....

The video of the back end of the rod shows side to side movement which means either the pusher block fits very loose in the stoker housing or the threaded rod is loose. This side to side movement will take away from the distance the pusher block can move decreasing your 'dots'.

In the other video's there is a gap between the plate and collar on the rod. I don't think this is too unusual but you could put a washer or two to fill this gap and the plate movement would then translate into instant block movement increasing your 'dots'.

I think you said you couldn't get the threaded rod out of the pusher block, did you try another nut and jam nut combination behind the wing nut to back it out?


 
jimbo970
Member
Posts: 184
Joined: Sat. Oct. 14, 2006 9:20 am

Post by jimbo970 » Tue. Nov. 26, 2019 8:22 am

titleist1 wrote:
Tue. Nov. 26, 2019 8:10 am
Not sure I understand this part "I am curious as the only way to get the shaft rod to butt up agains the block is to tighten the lever against the end from the back. I recall, sould be wrong that yrs back I could have the lever and night tight on end but not up against end of shaft. You can have the jam wing nut and lever locked in place but not against the back end of the sleeve, that is what would give you less than maximum movement.

Two things I noticed that may be related to limiting the overall movement....

The video of the back end of the rod shows side to side movement which means either the pusher block fits very loose in the stoker housing or the threaded rod is loose. This side to side movement will take away from the distance the pusher block can move decreasing your 'dots'.

In the other video's there is a gap between the plate and collar on the rod. I don't think this is too unusual but you could put a washer or two to fill this gap and the plate movement would then translate into instant block movement increasing your 'dots'.

I think you said you couldn't get the threaded rod out of the pusher block, did you try another nut and jam nut combination behind the wing nut to back it out?
So I will try to get block out. I tapped with hammer from pack and it doesnt budge forward much but its up against wall so there isnt a ton of room. Then you suggest tigtening the front of the rod flange to the block using a nut. I assume a 5\16 based on some other post and the wing nut and lever shouldnt be up tight against back of rod shaft

 
titleist1
Member
Posts: 5226
Joined: Wed. Nov. 14, 2007 4:06 pm

Post by titleist1 » Tue. Nov. 26, 2019 8:37 am

I take the block out the back toward the rear of the stove. You have to remove the fork / plate assembly by removing the 4 bolts from the the pillow blocks (2 each). I think you had that out already. I also take out the stoker motor, three bolts, two on the fork side and one on the other side that go through the bottom of the stoker housing, all with a 1/2" wrench. There are openings in the side of the stoker housing that gives access to get to the two on the fork side. Its a pretty quick in / out process for both fork and motor. The pointer comes off the side of the block....looks like yours has the allen head bolt.

The nut / jam nut combo I mentioned last was to give you something to put a wrench on to un-thread the threaded rod from the pusher block. Those two nuts would not be against the sleeve, but on the threads behind the wing nut.

Post Reply

Return to “Stoker Coal Furnaces & Stoves Using Anthracite (Hot Air)”