Harmon Magnum push block grinding coal
-
- New Member
- Posts: 2
- Joined: Thu. Nov. 23, 2017 10:30 pm
- Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: Harmon magnum
- Coal Size/Type: Rice
- Other Heating: Alaska stocker stove
This site has been very helpful for getting a used stove up and running. But I'm still having problems. The push block is grinding the coal and the fines clean out is full after 12 hours. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
BTW I was having a problem with larger size coal blocking it but I'm now screening the coat with 1/2 " screen and the fork was bent out to over 2 1/2" but is now bent back.
BTW I was having a problem with larger size coal blocking it but I'm now screening the coat with 1/2 " screen and the fork was bent out to over 2 1/2" but is now bent back.
- McGiever
- Member
- Posts: 10130
- Joined: Sun. May. 02, 2010 11:26 pm
- Location: Junction of PA-OH-WV
- Stoker Coal Boiler: AXEMAN-ANDERSON 130 "1959"
- Hand Fed Coal Boiler: BUCKET A DAY water heater
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: Warm Morning 414A
- Coal Size/Type: PEA,NUT,STOVE /ANTHRACITE
- Other Heating: Ground Source Heat Pump and some Solar
Might not want to hear this, but take the pusher block out and clean and polish the "throat" real good.
There gets to be a dried fine coal crust which is like hardened concrete and is very abrasive and "grabs" the ruff coal granules and "holds them tight where it should just "glide along" on the smooth.
HTH
There gets to be a dried fine coal crust which is like hardened concrete and is very abrasive and "grabs" the ruff coal granules and "holds them tight where it should just "glide along" on the smooth.
HTH
- 2001Sierra
- Member
- Posts: 2211
- Joined: Wed. May. 20, 2009 8:09 am
- Location: Wynantskill NY, 10 miles from Albany
- Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: Keystoker 90 Chimney vent
- Coal Size/Type: Rice
- Other Heating: Buderus Oil Boiler 3115-34
Rice coal?
-
- Member
- Posts: 22
- Joined: Tue. Jan. 24, 2017 9:14 pm
- Location: Trout Run PA
- Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: Harman Magnum
- Coal Size/Type: Rice
- Other Heating: Electric baseboards (Utilized as backup)
I had a similar issue last year and removing the pusher block and cleaning was part of the solution. It was quite difficult to remove as it was so caked with hardened dust. However once cleaned and sliding smooth I no longer have an excessive amount of fines. Have you checked your forks again to see if they have bent back out? Also have have you adjusted how far your pusher block slides forward? Mine slides forward six dots. It has been about two weeks since I have dumped my fines tray.
Attachments
When I get issues with grinding on my Super Mag I clean it out totally. Scrape the crud off in front of it. Then put Oil down on it so it rides in the oil. That cures the grinding and clicking noises for many days until the next time. I think the Oil breaks down the crud around the block and track it rides in. The excess oil drips down into the fines tray some so that would need cleaning..
- coalkirk
- Member
- Posts: 5185
- Joined: Wed. May. 17, 2006 8:12 pm
- Location: Forest Hill MD
- Stoker Coal Boiler: 1981 EFM DF520 retired
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: Jotul 507 on standby
- Coal Size/Type: Lehigh anthracite/rice coal
The pusher block should be removed every season and the whole stoker cleaned if you want it to last and not have to replace parts all the time. The picture posted shows rusty water stains and corrosion. It's no wonder that pusher was hard to remove. You really can't use wet coal with this stoker. slightly damp is ok.
-
- Member
- Posts: 22
- Joined: Tue. Jan. 24, 2017 9:14 pm
- Location: Trout Run PA
- Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: Harman Magnum
- Coal Size/Type: Rice
- Other Heating: Electric baseboards (Utilized as backup)
Yeah the pictures are mine and not DFK's. Hopefully their unit is in better condition than mine was when I got it. The previous owner of my unit must have only used wet coal. I have removed and cleaned my pusher twice last season and once so far this year during he initial start up and cleaning. However most of the metal has rust and corrosion so she's not the prettiest stove and it will take some time to get all the bad parts replaced but she's up and running well pumping out heat.
- Hambden Bob
- Member
- Posts: 8551
- Joined: Mon. Jan. 04, 2010 10:54 am
- Location: Hambden Twp. Geauga County,Ohio
- Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: Harman 1998 Magnum Stoker
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: Blower Model Coal Chubby 1982-Serial#0097
- Coal Size/Type: Rice-A-Roni ! / Nut
- Other Heating: Pro-Pain Forced Air
Greetings and Welcome,DFK ! Seems that every design has it's maintenance points,weak spots,and things that just generally need a little more Love and Attention in their design. I Love the Harman Vertiflow Stoker System....
However,in my use of it,I've first off found that dry coal is Your best friend. The next one is a hard and deep cleanout upon shutdown,with corrosion control a needed benefit. As far as lubing the pusher block,You can try the Captain's Oil Method on the slide. Personally,I switched to the dry Graphite Method. It didn't create a slurry with the coal fines,and it seemed to last and be beneficial for a longer time.
Be patient when taking Your Stove apart,as it'll try you due to corrosion. You can make the replacement gaskets from the proper stock,depending how far You're tearing down. The Harman Magnum Stoker is a Great Heat Maker,it just needs Your caring hands to help it do it's job. Keep checking back in with Us to give feedback on how this is going for You !
However,in my use of it,I've first off found that dry coal is Your best friend. The next one is a hard and deep cleanout upon shutdown,with corrosion control a needed benefit. As far as lubing the pusher block,You can try the Captain's Oil Method on the slide. Personally,I switched to the dry Graphite Method. It didn't create a slurry with the coal fines,and it seemed to last and be beneficial for a longer time.
Be patient when taking Your Stove apart,as it'll try you due to corrosion. You can make the replacement gaskets from the proper stock,depending how far You're tearing down. The Harman Magnum Stoker is a Great Heat Maker,it just needs Your caring hands to help it do it's job. Keep checking back in with Us to give feedback on how this is going for You !
-
- New Member
- Posts: 1
- Joined: Tue. Nov. 19, 2019 9:56 am
- Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: Harman magnum stoker
- Coal Size/Type: rice
- Other Heating: wood
Hi I'm also having a similar problem. I cleaned the push bar and after I noticed the bar is lifting on the way back before pushing forward. I believe the lift is allowing the smaller pieces of rice coal to get under the bar, crunching them into even smaller pieces.
Any suggestion as to why the push bar would lift on the out stock?
Any suggestion as to why the push bar would lift on the out stock?
- McGiever
- Member
- Posts: 10130
- Joined: Sun. May. 02, 2010 11:26 pm
- Location: Junction of PA-OH-WV
- Stoker Coal Boiler: AXEMAN-ANDERSON 130 "1959"
- Hand Fed Coal Boiler: BUCKET A DAY water heater
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: Warm Morning 414A
- Coal Size/Type: PEA,NUT,STOVE /ANTHRACITE
- Other Heating: Ground Source Heat Pump and some Solar
I could see perhaps that the fork could effect this alignment.
Measure that "fork gap or spread", it is to be 1-3/4" on the Magnum, the Super Magnum is to be 1-7/8", I believe.
Measure that "fork gap or spread", it is to be 1-3/4" on the Magnum, the Super Magnum is to be 1-7/8", I believe.
Any tips on removing the long screw from block. Mine wond unscrew, maybe I shouldnt bother but I didnt want to try to force it.
Does anyone have video from the top with hopper removed showing how much of the aluminum block stays exposed during the feed duration. the block doesnt seem to adjust more than what it is even if i turn the lever in the back a few turns left or a few turns right
- McGiever
- Member
- Posts: 10130
- Joined: Sun. May. 02, 2010 11:26 pm
- Location: Junction of PA-OH-WV
- Stoker Coal Boiler: AXEMAN-ANDERSON 130 "1959"
- Hand Fed Coal Boiler: BUCKET A DAY water heater
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: Warm Morning 414A
- Coal Size/Type: PEA,NUT,STOVE /ANTHRACITE
- Other Heating: Ground Source Heat Pump and some Solar
jimbo, what about that fork measurement mentioned earlier above???
I can get a video later today, i still have the hopper off the workshop unit from a good cleaning & lubing earlier this week.
If the threaded rod is nice and tight in the block I would leave it that way! I always thought it would be nice to have a slot in the back end that a stubby screwdriver would fit into for tightening it up.
+1 on checking the fork measurement if you think its not moving enough on each stroke.
If the threaded rod is nice and tight in the block I would leave it that way! I always thought it would be nice to have a slot in the back end that a stubby screwdriver would fit into for tightening it up.
+1 on checking the fork measurement if you think its not moving enough on each stroke.