stoker in basement, getting air to second floor.
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- Location: Birdsboro PA.
- Stoker Coal Boiler: EFM 350
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- Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: alaska kodiak stoker 1986. 1987 triburner, 1987 crane diamond
- Coal Size/Type: rice
hmm, hallway kinda narrow, with basement door open all the way it blocks access to the living room.....anyone try to use a louvered door?
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- Location: Drums, PA (NEPA)
- Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: Leisure Line Hyfire
I just did the exact thing you're asking about yesterday. I have a Hyfire which already had the heat jacket on it. From the heat jacket I ran into a "plenum" directly above the stove. Off of the plenum I put an 8" duct fan to a reducer and 6" flex duct. The fan is controlled with a honeywell fan/limit switch that I inserted into the back of the plenum. Before and after pictures attached.
As far as results....Initially I was unimpressed with the amount of air coming out of the registers, however, before the duct work was in place there was about an 8-10 degree difference between the basement and the first floor. Right now it's 72 in the basement and 69 on the first floor, so I guess it working.
I agree with the previous posts that you should also insulate your basement. I still need to do that myself, especially on walls that are below grade.
As far as results....Initially I was unimpressed with the amount of air coming out of the registers, however, before the duct work was in place there was about an 8-10 degree difference between the basement and the first floor. Right now it's 72 in the basement and 69 on the first floor, so I guess it working.
I agree with the previous posts that you should also insulate your basement. I still need to do that myself, especially on walls that are below grade.
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- Member
- Posts: 2705
- Joined: Fri. Jan. 26, 2007 9:55 pm
- Location: Birdsboro PA.
- Stoker Coal Boiler: EFM 350
- Hot Air Coal Stoker Furnace: reading allegheny stoker
- Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: alaska kodiak stoker 1986. 1987 triburner, 1987 crane diamond
- Coal Size/Type: rice
my basement walls are rubble and concrete. need to be able to do repairs as needed, framing with 2x4's and fiberglass is out. doing best i can with the repairs but i still don't trust the walls to frame them in.
could i use dense foam sheets? those could be moved if there was a wet spot.
could i use dense foam sheets? those could be moved if there was a wet spot.
- freetown fred
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- Location: Freetown,NY 13803
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: HITZER 50-93
- Coal Size/Type: BLASCHAK Nut
Even 4X8 1/2--5/8 Styrofoam would help noticeably L
- windyhill4.2
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- Location: Jonestown,Pa.17038
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- Coal Size/Type: 404-nut, 520 rice ,anthracite for both
Even the foil board is considered flammable & supposed to be covered ,but at least it won't burn unless continuous flame is on it.The foil should lessen the flammability some.lincolnmania wrote: ↑Sat. Nov. 18, 2017 6:05 pmmy basement walls are rubble and concrete. need to be able to do repairs as needed, framing with 2x4's and fiberglass is out. doing best i can with the repairs but i still don't trust the walls to frame them in.
could i use dense foam sheets? those could be moved if there was a wet spot.
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I have the same situation, i will use one or two inch foam ,you could do the back of he wall in cement board and the bottom plate in treated lumber. With the foam on the open side of the wall under the drywall. Also elevate it off the floor about a quarter to a half inch in case water comes in so none trapped behind.lincolnmania wrote: ↑Sat. Nov. 18, 2017 6:05 pmmy basement walls are rubble and concrete. need to be able to do repairs as needed, framing with 2x4's and fiberglass is out. doing best i can with the repairs but i still don't trust the walls to frame them in.
could i use dense foam sheets? those could be moved if there was a wet spot.